inner primary seal

[65eglide]

little confused as to what cylmers states on the inner primary,
Aluminum paint ?
hows does that seal the inner to the case?

And what's the right way to apply this?

Also while I'm here they also state to use red loctite on the mainshaft where the inner seal sits, intaking this apart there was NO locite on that shaft, could this have been a cause for a leak or is that used there so the mainshaft wont spin in the bearing would I be safe in not using loctite there, seems it would be a pain to get the inner off with that red stuff on the shaft

[RUBONE]

Aluminum paint is (or was in earlier days) a common gasket material. That is all that was a head sealer for WR and KR race bikes as well as all K-Model street bikes. If parts ar assembled when it is still tacky it fills all the small voids. A modern copper coat sealer is fine. H-D never put red Loctite on the inner primary bearing to mainshaft. If the bearing isn't seized the inner won't spin on the shaft.
Of course I also feel that Clymer manuals are best suited for bird cage liners...
Robbie

[65eglide]

ok thanks
I mainly use the HD service manual it's good, but clymers goes into a
little more detail on things that the HD manual seems to have left out.
Using the red, really didn't make sense as there was none on there when I disassembled it,
and there no mention of that in the HD manual.
I like to use both that way I can check one against the other

[Cotten]

....I mainly use the HD service manual it's good, but clymers goes into a little more detail on things that the HD manual seems to have left out.
..

65eglide!

Now you're scareing me.

....Cotten

[65eglide]

ok so I'll ask, whats wrong with clymers

cylmers has spec that the hd-manual does not have, mainly torque specs
Being used to rebuilding V8's I couldn't imagine bolting down a critical part and using the HD way of giving specs as to after the nut is tight, give it another couple medium blows with a hammer
not the way I do things

transmission mainshaft nut comes to mind they tell you to firmly tighten, what the hell does that mean
what firmly tight to you is ,might not be that way for me.

I like to have the specs to use

all I'm saying is that I like to compare the two
just seems this hd manual for panheads could use a little more, dont have that problem with the other HD manuals for the other bikes i have
Never found a need to use anything but the HD ones on those

[Bigincher]

65eglide, the HD Service Manual as we know it, is not actually a 'service manual' produced by the MoCo. Rather, it is an assemblage of Factory Shop Dopes, combined with the basic information in the Rider's Handbook. Shop Dope was produced by the factory and sent to the dealers, addressing issues and updates as they came along. (Maybe Robbie will elaborate here...)
I believe there are at least 3, maybe 4 volumes of the Shop Dopes being reproduced. A good addition to anyone's shop literature.
Search the knowledge base here, I believe there is a copy of a later torque spec sheet, which at the very least makes a good guideline for earlier machines.

[Cotten]

65eglide!

The commonly available '59 to '69 Service Manual is indeed true to the real MOCO issue.
It also includes a diagram of the aluminum primary with critical dimensions.

....Cotten

[old.wrench]

Another reference worth checking out is the 1940-'47 service manual. You might find some helpful info in there that is not in the panhead manual or is explained in a little different way. The panhead manual builds on the information provided in the knucklehead/flathead 1940-'47 manual as well as providing new info on the pans.

Geo.

[Cotten]

Folks,

65eglide has a 65eglide.

Someday there will be a book for just that year of Big Twin.

And it will be 50mm thick, if any good at all.

....Cotten

[65eglide]

well thanks for all replies, I'll have to look into the earlier year pans manual too.
so the question I guess is what is it you like or not like about the clymers manuals

[58flh]

I to have a clymers manual,& HD manuals,--the Clymers just sits in the drawer--Remember these bikes were produced when a man fixed his own ON the side of the road!--me in Fla.--headgasket blew right over the line!--theres no tourqewrench there Just slap a gasket & roll, have a good time & ride back to NJ without a hitch!--I might add that the gasket that blew was not a JAMES!--Asbestous alum. type garbage!--I guess its easy to say that the Motors are tuff & take alot of abuse!--& when they say top motormount-(as tight as you can get it!)-Just tight as you can get it!--simple.I to have worked on many 8s mostly chevys & a watercooled motor is diff.!--HD couldnt be simpler!-1-throw, 2 cyls.= done.---you may notice that certain specs. are just not what I would run with todays matierals/ they did give loose specs. Which tells me they do take abuse. Mine is ridden 8 months out the year anymore, Pops ran it all year if no ice on the ground. Just Preventive Maintenence & common sense Keeps it rolling along/ especialy with a rigid!---Respectfully, Richie

[Cotten]

Folks,

We should probably start with what's wrong with the OEM manuals first!

....Cotten