Removing steering head lock

[1964FLDUO]

I am attempting to remove the lock on my bike because it had metal filler put over it and after getting most of the filler off, the locking mechanism appears damaged. Oh and I dont have the key for it. So how do I remove it? Drill it out?

[Robert Luland]

Just get a dent puller, screw it in and wack away. Bob L

[Cotten]

Just get a dent puller, screw it in and wack away. Bob L

Great release for excess testosterone I know!.., Bob,...

But even when you tear the core out, you must still remove the screw or roll-pin that retained it, and clinching it inside the bore gains little.

(More to come if my wife lets me on her DSL tonight. )

....Cotten

[1964FLDUO]

I await your further instructions.

[Cotten]

As posted in previous discussions,

The locking screw or rollpin can be located by inspecting this region closely:

LOCKPIN.jpg

Earlier Pans had a soft screw with the head chisled off. Late Pans had a hardened roll pin which is much more difficult to deal with.

I have no idea when the change occurred.

A left-hand drill works best upon either.
The trick is to avoid drilling into the lock core itself, should you wish to have it re-keyed.

Bill's Custom Cycles is currently dumping their OEM stock of lock cores with a Walneck's ad offering them at a bargain price.
I wouldn't mention it if hadn't I already ordered mine!

....Cotten

[1964FLDUO]

Cotten, I drilled and tapped the lock and removed it with a slide hammer. The lock sleeve however remained in place, is it necessary to remove the sleeve to insert a new lock?

[Cotten]

1964FLDUO!

Yes,

and it will be a lot harder now.

Zach's Lock Shop might have saved the poor thing before you annihilated it.

....Cotten

[Robert Luland]

Well all you have proven is you lack the ghetto experience to get the job done proper. Now you will have to do a secondary operation to remove the scrotum. All ya need is a blind bearing puller. Once you remove it, just drive what's left of the split pin back into the bore. *Important note here* Take a piece of sand paper and clean the area Tom pointed out to find the split pin hole. Do not use anything other than a 3/32" punch to push the pin out or you will screw up the hole and the next split pin won't hold. That hole is already drill the perfect size for a 4-40 tap if you want to use a set screw instead of the split pin. On a side note: For you perfectness's. The NOS OEM cylinder kit in the picture has a B key and is the real deal. It can be yours for $205.00 including shipping. Bob L

[1964FLDUO]

I dont know if it was functional or not it looked pretty messed up before I drilled it. Probably why someone put metal filler in the hole. Thanks for the offer Bob, I'll need to go find a blind bearing puller.

[Pomike]

Thanks for the offer Bob, I'll need to go find a blind bearing puller.
Hey 64, I know one. His name is George. Heh heh. Mike

[UPSROD]

If you just drive the roll pin out with a punch the sleeve will come right out. If you
replace the lock with a Vtwin or the one Bill sells you will have to drill the hole in the
lock for the pin. You can use the sleeve you removed to set up your drill press to set
the angle to drill it. Not too deep into the lock. An original like Bob's will be already drilled.

[1964FLDUO]

Anyone have any tips for pulling the neck bearing cups?

[Robert Luland]

Anyone have any tips for pulling the neck bearing cups?

Tell us your name and will tell ya how to do it? Only kidding. Just get a 1/4" drift and a ball peen hammer. Take your time moving from one side to another and work it out. I just went looking for a cool tool I made years ago for doing this to show you guys a picture but can't find it. I got three tool towers worth the shit jammed in to one. At the price Snap-On wants for towers these days, it's going to stay that way. For you guys that do this a lot, this tool is indispensible. I got the idea from looking at a set of lathe arbors. You take a piece of solid stock and turn it down to fit though the upper cup. Drill and tap it for a 3/8" bolt. At the business end cut an X two inches up in a band saw. Find yourself something to make an tapered piece that a 3/8" Allen cap screw will fit into and your good. You drop it in from the top. Tighten up the Allen screw at the bottom and expand it and it's happy whacking from there on. No damage to the cup for the most part. Bob L

[Bosheff]

Are ya talkin bout removin the bearin races from the neck cups?....bosheff

[1964FLDUO]

Yeah I was, but I got them out already with a hammer and rod.