So I finally scored an original old style top triple tree and later a set of original 3" risers, with the original bushings still installed. So go to press out the bushings to replace them (they're shot, as you might expect after 50+ years) and when I do, the rubber bushing slides right out but the metal sleeve is still stuck in there. Bit of rust in there, too. Any thoughts on how to get that sucker out of there so I can press in new bushings? Still got one to go, so any thoughts on how to avoid this next time? Thanks again...
-Kuda (man of a 1000 questions)
'49 FL
1949 riser bushings
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Re: 1949 riser bushings
cut mine off with a dremel and a cutting wheel...put a screwdriver in the cut and they slid right off no problem...Skip
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Re: 1949 riser bushings
Huh. A dremel? I'm trying to figure out how in the hell I can get my dremel tool up in there. The hole it only a little larger than the cut off wheel on the tool, plus I could only cut it horizontally, not vertically (inot inline with the riser, but around the middle). Can't see how that would help, but maybe I'm not getting it?
-Kuda
-Kuda
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Re: 1949 riser bushings
I have an extension on mine that is like a cable...held it in there at an angle and cut at an angle...I did use used wheels...even needed to waste some to make them a tad smaller...just as my dad would say...poor folks have poor ways! Sorry if it dosen't help...worked for me...Skip
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Re: 1949 riser bushings
how about hosing it down with PB blast or liquid wrench of some sort and pressing them out with an arbor. If the size matches up with a standard, fine, if not, make one on a lathe. It shouldn't be too tough. If you don't have the tooling or lathe, try some heat, and a brass drift to loosen it. Don't go crazy with the torch, you are just trying to get the top tree to let go of the bushing, not heat it up to the point of causing warpage, cracks, or other problems.
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Re: 1949 riser bushings
If the sleeve is stuck in a blind hole, you can pack the inside with grease and find a rod that fits real well inside the sleeve you want to remove. Hit the rod with a hammer, and the grease acts like a hydraulic press and pushes the sleeve out while the rod is smacked. If there is a through hole that has threads, you could try to plug it with a bolt.
You could also try to weld a bead inside the sleeve and as it cools, it may drop right out. A short bead is all that is needed most times.
You could also try to weld a bead inside the sleeve and as it cools, it may drop right out. A short bead is all that is needed most times.
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Re: 1949 riser bushings
"held it in there at an angle and cut at an angle...I did use used wheels...even needed to waste some to make them a tad smaller..."
Ah! Now I've got it, and I think that's worth a try. I don't have a flexible extension on mine, but I think I rig up a ridged extension without too much trouble. Thanks!
-Kuda
Ah! Now I've got it, and I think that's worth a try. I don't have a flexible extension on mine, but I think I rig up a ridged extension without too much trouble. Thanks!
-Kuda
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Re: 1949 riser bushings
"how about hosing it down with PB blast or liquid wrench of some sort and pressing them out with an arbor."
Soaked 'em both overnight in liquid wrench, but it didn't help much...
"If the size matches up with a standard, fine, if not, make one on a lathe. It shouldn't be too tough. If you don't have the tooling or lathe, try some heat, and a brass drift to loosen it. Don't go crazy with the torch, you are just trying to get the top tree to let go of the bushing, not heat it up to the point of causing warpage, cracks, or other problems."
Don't have access to a lathe, but I'm trying to get the metal sleeve of the *riser* bushing out of the riser itself. The '49 to '60 (I think) used a bushing in a hollow riser, which bolted solidly to the upper triple tree. Starting in the '60's (I think) they went to a solid riser with bushings pressed into the upper triple tree. Those aren't hard to remove, usually. But the hollow riser bushings are rubber on the inside with a steel sleeve on the outside. The rubber pops right out, leaving the %^# steel sleeve inside...
"If the sleeve is stuck in a blind hole, you can pack the inside with grease and find a rod that fits real well inside the sleeve you want to remove."
Yeah, that's a great trick! I used to use that to remove clutch pilot bushings on my old race car, used a non-standard sized roller pilot bushing. Unfortunately, it's not a blind hole. And while one end is treaded, it's the end that the bushing needs to come out of... Great ideas tho, thanks.
"You could also try to weld a bead inside the sleeve and as it cools, it may drop right out."
That's my last resort. I don't have a welder, and the only guy I trust to do a delicate weld like that (without destroying the riser) is too far away right now, have to mail it to him. But that's another great idea, so thanks again...
-Kuda Update: GOT IT!!
Soaked 'em both overnight in liquid wrench, but it didn't help much...
"If the size matches up with a standard, fine, if not, make one on a lathe. It shouldn't be too tough. If you don't have the tooling or lathe, try some heat, and a brass drift to loosen it. Don't go crazy with the torch, you are just trying to get the top tree to let go of the bushing, not heat it up to the point of causing warpage, cracks, or other problems."
Don't have access to a lathe, but I'm trying to get the metal sleeve of the *riser* bushing out of the riser itself. The '49 to '60 (I think) used a bushing in a hollow riser, which bolted solidly to the upper triple tree. Starting in the '60's (I think) they went to a solid riser with bushings pressed into the upper triple tree. Those aren't hard to remove, usually. But the hollow riser bushings are rubber on the inside with a steel sleeve on the outside. The rubber pops right out, leaving the %^# steel sleeve inside...
"If the sleeve is stuck in a blind hole, you can pack the inside with grease and find a rod that fits real well inside the sleeve you want to remove."
Yeah, that's a great trick! I used to use that to remove clutch pilot bushings on my old race car, used a non-standard sized roller pilot bushing. Unfortunately, it's not a blind hole. And while one end is treaded, it's the end that the bushing needs to come out of... Great ideas tho, thanks.
"You could also try to weld a bead inside the sleeve and as it cools, it may drop right out."
That's my last resort. I don't have a welder, and the only guy I trust to do a delicate weld like that (without destroying the riser) is too far away right now, have to mail it to him. But that's another great idea, so thanks again...
-Kuda Update: GOT IT!!
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Re: 1949 riser bushings
Tried all the above suggestions (except the welding one), no dice. What finally got it was using a Sawall to cut through one side of the bushing, then wail the piss out of it with a brass drift and a BFH. Still took a lot of persuading, but both did finally come out. It's a tricky operation, cutting through *just* the bushing without cutting up the riser, but it can be done with a lot of care and patience... Thanks again for all your suggestions,
-Kuda
'49 FL
-Kuda
'49 FL