Can be done with an air rivet gun. Support and protect the bottom (cotter key side) of the pin using 7/16 and 3/8" drill stops stacked on top of each other. Pix later. I smashed this one flat because the cotter key end touched some metal support and had to grind it off. Bitter loss. The stud on the other side was pounded to a perfect dome, too.
Pay attention to every move you make. Think about everything twice or you can quickly destroy a part. The disbelief afterward is spellbinding.
Got the foot lever bracket . Replica stuff. Black powder coated. Nice. Too bad the air rivet gun is expensive. A peened rivet looks better than welding/melting the spring stud onto the bracket. Sometimes U.S. Airtool (USATCO) has re-built rivet guns for $150-200. (310) 323-1953, ask for Mike W. This is a rebuilt gun. A Chicago Pneumatic CP-4444 from USATCO, Gardena, CA. The peener is a 3/16 (# SM W-4356). Sized for rear sprocket rivets. An 1/8" peener is available for the rear sprocket dowel pins.
(36886-41) Foot Lever Pin Peening
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(36886-41) Foot Lever Pin Peening
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Last edited by Anonymous on Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Joined: Mon Mar 11, 2002 5:11 pm
- Bikes: '46 Knuck. '57 Panhead, '59 Panhead
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1. 7/16 and 3/8" drill stops will support the steps in the stud.
2. Holding the rivet shank vertical will eliminate the half-moon divot I put into the rocker lever.
3. Finished rivet (replete with un-sightly crescent).
2. Holding the rivet shank vertical will eliminate the half-moon divot I put into the rocker lever.
3. Finished rivet (replete with un-sightly crescent).
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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- Senior Member
- Posts: 1330
- Joined: Mon Mar 11, 2002 5:11 pm
- Bikes: '46 Knuck. '57 Panhead, '59 Panhead
- Location: Repop Hell
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- Contact: