steering head bearing cups
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steering head bearing cups
Does anyone know the timken # is for the bearing cups for a 58 pan? I removed the old ones to send the parts off for plating and lost them
Thanks
Craig
Thanks
Craig
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neck cups
had my cups chromed years ago. they are real pretty . i left the races in they are real pretty too. never tried to fit them or lap the the chrome off i may in the future as i said they came out real pretty . went with the sugg estion about Mark blakenship looked him up in an old amca mag . great guy to talk with very knowledgeable . sent me cups races and correct bearings all look great . thanks for the scoop. chuck
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ok chuck. good you did. The guys a national treasure, and that's what we're here for. His phone number is (304) 697-1445 after 3 p.m. (EST) .
The industry needs real '48-60, 3.5 gallon gas tanks, real bad. There's not enough OE ones around to support replication.
Tedd Cycle is now considering manufacturing them.
It's not my main distraction any more.
The industry needs real '48-60, 3.5 gallon gas tanks, real bad. There's not enough OE ones around to support replication.
Tedd Cycle is now considering manufacturing them.
It's not my main distraction any more.
Last edited by Anonymous on Tue Nov 20, 2007 2:45 am, edited 3 times in total.
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I hope this isn't jumping too far off the original topic but I would sure like to know if anyone has a slick trick for knocking the old cups out of the neck casting without destroying them.
Most of my experience, and problems are with the cups on the flathead frames. The inside diameter of the neck casting/forging is smaller than the oustide diameter of the machined part of the cups that inserts into the neck, there isn't enough lip exposed to catch the puller jaws of a slide hammer or any other type of puller that I have in my arsonal.
The pic that VintageTwin posted of the 49-59 cup reminded me of this question that I've been meaning to ask, I noticed that the edges of the cup are pretty much destroyed by trying to bash it out of the frame with a hammer and punch.
any ideas?
thanks,
mike
Most of my experience, and problems are with the cups on the flathead frames. The inside diameter of the neck casting/forging is smaller than the oustide diameter of the machined part of the cups that inserts into the neck, there isn't enough lip exposed to catch the puller jaws of a slide hammer or any other type of puller that I have in my arsonal.
The pic that VintageTwin posted of the 49-59 cup reminded me of this question that I've been meaning to ask, I noticed that the edges of the cup are pretty much destroyed by trying to bash it out of the frame with a hammer and punch.
any ideas?
thanks,
mike
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yeah, that '59 was a single cup at the bottom of the filthy heap, in that Morgan City pile of parts from Dago Pete, that nobody wanted. It continued on it's journey, landing at V-Twin as a height and O.D. stem gauge for the new ones V-Twin is suppose to be making. They sent an nos one over there as a model...in June '04
Key to quick removal is to have the neck part of the frame sitting in direct contact with the sawhorse.
Key to quick removal is to have the neck part of the frame sitting in direct contact with the sawhorse.
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Thanks guys! i see the error in my ways now, I just wasn't using a big enough rod. The slide hammer was a definite flop and trying to catch the lip of the cup from above with a tapered punch didn't work either, the top of the cups does not seem to have a square edge on it, and there isn't enough exposed to get a good solid grip on.
I'll set up the saw horse and get a "BFR" and give it a whack. I've got 2 frames sitting in the shop right now that I've been trying to remove the cups from.
thanks,
mike
I'll set up the saw horse and get a "BFR" and give it a whack. I've got 2 frames sitting in the shop right now that I've been trying to remove the cups from.
thanks,
mike
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Don't whack it too hard. Not necessary. Spray-nozzle WD-40 into the ends and tap the head while it's upside down, about 40 times (vibrations really do help wick fluid).
Rap the pipe end at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock. It's not how hard you hit, it's how you prep the staging for it.
Put a pile of blankets on the floor to catch the cup if it falls because it will.
Rap the pipe end at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock. It's not how hard you hit, it's how you prep the staging for it.
Put a pile of blankets on the floor to catch the cup if it falls because it will.