Replica Frame

[Mooch]

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET A 1948 REPLICA FRAME LIKE THEY USED TO SELL AT VTWIN(THEY DON"T HAVE ANYMORE)....

[1962FLH]

Item in stock in Austin TX. You may not need the all this but for $6,399.99 you will get a Replica Harley Davidson FL 1948 Panhead Rolling Chassis Kit with free shipping and if you part this out it may be a better deal than buying the frame alone. Kit features a Replica wishbone rigid frame, Replica black oil tank, 28" black offset spring fork assembly, 16" x 3" black powder coated front and rear wheel hubs and rims with stainless steel spokes, Buckhorn handlebars, 3.5 gallon 2 piece gas tank set, and a Corbin Gentry deluxe black solo seat. Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replica-Harley- ... 3641.l6393" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Mooch]

Item in stock in Austin TX. You may not need the all this but for $6,399.99 you will get a Replica Harley Davidson FL 1948 Panhead Rolling Chassis Kit with free shipping and if you part this out it may be a better deal than buying the frame alone. Kit features a Replica wishbone rigid frame, Replica black oil tank, 28" black offset spring fork assembly, 16" x 3" black powder coated front and rear wheel hubs and rims with stainless steel spokes, Buckhorn handlebars, 3.5 gallon 2 piece gas tank set, and a Corbin Gentry deluxe black solo seat. Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replica-Harley- ... 3641.l6393" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I AM LOOKING FOR THE 1948 FRAME ONLY

[RUBONE]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replica-Wishbon ... 18&vxp=mtr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[panhead]

http://vgmotorcycle.com/harley-hardtail-frame/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Mooch]

Wanted to order vtwin number 51-1007 and they are referring me to number 51-1949....does anyone here know the differences between these 2 ??

[Mooch]

Wanted to order vtwin number 51-1007 and they are referring me to number 51-1949....does anyone here know the differences between these 2 ??

And also what the difference with those 2 and the 1949-52 vtwin number 51-1200 ??

[VPH-D]

Look a little closer at their catalog, one number is the bare frame, other has a trans plate and some other pieces included.
VPH-D

[bandit67]

I just got my 51-1200 frame kit in this past Friday. The kit comes with seat post, tranny plate and rear axle assembly. In looking thru supplied info on the difference between the 51 -1949 frame and the 51 -1200 frame all we could find was the 1200 frame came with the horn tab welded on the down tube. As I understand it, the 1948 frame was for the springer and the horn was attached to the springer. The 1949 frame was for the hydro glide and the horn was moved down under. As I am a noobie here with the old stuff, others please chime in if this is incorrect. My question was if the rake on the 48 frame was different than the 49 since the plan was to change from springer to hydro and my very old local indy dealer said no. I have no info that shows this to be true or false.

[RUBONE]

Rake is the same. All late'46 up bikes had offset springers to go with the new for '46 30 degree frame, the same rake used on ALL Panheads regardless of fork.

[bandit67]

Thanks Rubone, and I wish not to hijack Moochs thread, but if one has a pre 46 non offset springer and installs it onto a 46 up 30 degree frame, what would be the problems with that or will it be noticeable.

[old.wrench]

bandit67,
The offset springer has the effect of pulling the front axle centerline closer to the frame so the forks move closer towards perpendicular. When you look at the change between in-line and off-set measured in inches, it's about 3/8" in the length of the fork stem. If you extend that line all the way to the axle centerline, the distance increases. For example, and using some easy to work with numbers: If the fork stem is 8" long and one end of it's axis moves 3/8", when you extend that line to the axle centerline which is 24" away (or 3 times further) the axle centerline will move about 1-1/8" closer to the frame. These numbers are just off the top of my head and not really accurate, but they are close.

So what happens? . . . A frame with a 30 degree neck angle and an in-line springer will sit slightly lower in the front (when the bike is equipped with stock 16" rims and tires front and rear) and the front wheel centerline will be an inch or so further from the frame than the same frame with an off-set springer. A taller front tire solves any problem this combo might create, at least for me it does.

The Factory made changes based on getting the best handling of the stock bikes just as they came equipped from the factory. They had feedback from their own test riders (I'm assuming a bit here) and also from contract customers like law enforcement.

Some of us riders and builders who are not constrained by the restrictions imposed by restoration based on a points system can make changes based more on personal preference considering handling (and looks too!) by using "non-correct" combinations of tire diameter to overcome or offset any handling problems that might arise from "non-conventional" combinations of frames and forks. Bandit 67, I don't know if I answered your question, or just stated the obvious, or maybe I typed a bunch of heretical drivel .

Geo.

[Larry]

The steering can be a bit quick due to the change in trail.

[RUBONE]

The offset springer was H-Ds last attempt to cure the handling issues created by 500-16 tires and wheels. When introduced in 1940, the big wheels and tires were found to have a tendency to create speed wobble and handlebar whipping. The actual cause was their sheer mass of the components coupled with gyroscopic effect. The mass caused the wheel to continue moving over center when attempting to self-center itself. This created whip at the bars and speed wobble. The first fix was the factory bent late '40 frames. The next was the increased rake '41 frame. The bull neck frame for '46 was next but still with the inline fork. The mid '46 change to offset was the best fix to date, and with the Hydra-Glide fork already in the works, it was the last so called "fix". As has been mentioned, a switch to 18 or 19 inch wheel does wonders for the handling. The effective OD of the 18 is about the same as a 16 but with much less mass, so the whip is eliminated. A 19" is generally an even better handler as it tends to mimic the effect of the offset fork by increasing the trail.But keep in mind that increasing the trail also increases the effort needed for low speed maneuvering, so as in all things it is a compromise.

[58bob]

Rubone,
This is something I have experienced my my bike, '56 with 16's front and rear and a standard length inline springer. It doesnt take much cornering angle to make the bars start wiggling, even on very smooth roads, thought it was a steering head loose. When you say the 'wheel moving over center' is that a factor of tire width? Hence going to a 18 or 19" tire stops it? In other words as the bike leans over the distance to the centerline is greater with the wider tire and thats what causes it? Thanks.