replacing sidecar loops
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replacing sidecar loops
Hi all, Has anyone out there replaced sidecar loops on a wishbone frame?
I don't have a frame table but could make up a jig to make sure I keep things straight. I am not bad with my tig but would like to hear from others before I jump into things. Any replys would be appreciated. Thanks-Tim
I don't have a frame table but could make up a jig to make sure I keep things straight. I am not bad with my tig but would like to hear from others before I jump into things. Any replys would be appreciated. Thanks-Tim
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1954 FL - Location: Rochester NY
Here's a link to a post I started on HTT when I did mine. I have more pics at home if anyone wants to see them. Jim
http://groups.msn.com/harleytechtalk/pa ... 6539706053
http://groups.msn.com/harleytechtalk/pa ... 6539706053
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please send all the pics you can with an description of how you did it., Thanks-Tim
tteegarden@wi.rr.com
tteegarden@wi.rr.com
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I replaced my side car eyes on the 54. They werent pinned like I'v been told. I just sawed em out at the welds. the originals are hollow so all there was left was to clean off any further weld left and remove the butt end tubes out of the frame tubes. I think one of em just fell out after knocking out the main centre piece I cut out. I kept the heigth of the back bone to the motor mounts recorded, then with a bottle jack I raised the back bone up enough to slip the new eys in. Cant remember if I used heat behind the motor mount while moving it up. I pulled the backbone back down using a ready rod to the exact dimention as original. rechecked neck anle and tweeked that a bit back to specks....I also made up a line-up bar passed thru the eyes like a vibration bar to keep them paralel and proper spacing. I would need to look up the CD with the pics for more detail. I had to do a lot of work on that frame to get it original..........partshunt
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For the panhead frames. The original side car eyes are hollow and the down tubes slid into them. So when you cut at the welds and slide in replacements that have the male stubs on them, it makes it easy to raise the down tubes and slide the repo eyes into the tubes. when all done and welded, it looks original again. I think the frame down tubes only have to move up about 3/4 to 1 inch and back down again....position with a cross bar and measure up to spec and weld. A frame chart is important to have for the job.
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It should be noted that '49 BTs were the first completely electrically-welded HD frames.
Earlier oven-speltered frames would be pinned, and a lot more difficult to work with: You cannot weld around spelter.
All frame forgings with sidecar mounts allowed the tubing members to enter them. This is very important for strength.
....Cotten
Earlier oven-speltered frames would be pinned, and a lot more difficult to work with: You cannot weld around spelter.
All frame forgings with sidecar mounts allowed the tubing members to enter them. This is very important for strength.
....Cotten
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If you want to go original, you need the hollow or open type to accept the frame tubes, if you can save that last inch or so out of the old eyes. I got mine from "wantedoldmc" on Ebay for 175 a pair. Solid plug style. Some dont have the casting numbers on them, some do. The type I used are made with the male plug to go up into the tubes. I dont think there is a strength problem that way. You could drill the tubes and stich weld up the tube to nit the butt ends, I didnt bother. If you want original looking you should also check that the ones your getting have the casting numbers on them..some versions dont.....
Here...
There is a guy named Steve in Australia that is making the parts you need. Exact reproductions of the original. Here's his site:pan56head wrote:cotten.I am working on a 52 pan frame this time.
jpcycles has the type you mentioned but I am worried about quality. Do you recommend anyone else? Thanks-Tim
http://www.raceframe.com.au/wishbone.html