Chain clanging on rear brake actuator arm

[steve_wood]

The rear chain occasionally clangs on the rear brake actuator arm.

When it's up on the bench, with the chain at its tightest point, the play is 1/2 inch.

Do I have the brake arm set up wrong? I can't see how it would go any other way....

Is there something else that could be causing the chain to go so slack it would descend to the brake arm?

Very puzzling.

[john HD]

are you sure it is hitting the brake rod? -or- is it hitting the chain guard? might sound similar.

john

[steve_wood]

Ahhhhh. You could be right. I was wondering why there were no marks (at all) on the brake rod.

It probaly is. Taking a quick look at the guard, it doesn't look like there's anything I can do about it.

Thanks John.

[RUBONE]

What kind of chain are you running? If it is O-ring be prepared for a variety of clearance issues. And if that chainguard is aftermarket check the inside of the mounting stud, some protrude too far into the chain clearance area. From your issues I presume you did not do a dry build before starting the renovation and reconstruction. (I won't call it a restoration unless it is going back to original condition!)
Robbie

[steve_wood]

It is an o-ring chain and that could well be the problem. I did try a dry build before firing the engine. The chain cleared everything okay. Just to clarify, the chain only clangs occasionally, not all the time. That kind of symptom can be hard to replicate in a dry build.

[john HD]

and lemme guess you only hear it when you are slowing down.

that is when the chain goes slack on the top and hits the chain guard!

with my bike i did a little tweeking to get enough clearance. now it only does it when it is time to tighten the chain up a little!

john

[steve_wood]

I think you're right. I'm not 100% sure, but I think it was when I was off the throttle.

I can tweak it a little bit with the rear bracket. We'll see how that works.

[john HD]

btw,

i had the same problem with my wla, i found the chain guard bracket on my oem rear fender was bent in a little. the chain was actually hitting the side of the chain guard.

again, a little tweek was all it needed.

john

[RUBONE]

I did try a dry build before firing the engine.

My recommendation is always build the whole bike with the pieces that will be used and actually run it before taking it back down for cosmetics. That eliminates the majority of problems up front, especially on any bike built from mixed parts and using aftermarket junk. major sub assemblies can be done like the engine and transmission rebuilt and wheels done, etc. Its more work but it beats having to retro repair stuff.
Robbie

[58flh]

Robbie--is correct!--You must dryhump the build & check all clearences or lack of!--I have a repop cvainguard, & I made a 1-inch by 3/8-inch stainless 1/16 thick (extention!)--Nothing hits ,Its looks nice & neat,-Its not stock obviously, but WORKS VERY GOOD!--I can have 2-inches of slop & it wont Bang on anything!---Just a route that you can explore!----RICHIE

[George Greer]

renovation and reconstruction. (I won't call it a restoration unless it is going back to original condition!)
Robbie

Robbie, I like that......

.....I should have said that on occasion when doing my WLA instead of "Restoration". The WLA is not "restored" to original condition, nor will my 58FL project. But they both are/will be the way that I want them.

George

[58flh]

Hey guys!----I forgot to mention one thing in my prior post!---I noticed that there was olny one loc-nut on the rod to the actuater,--Its a good idea to run (2 nuts)-so nothing moves under use & vibration & the rod, threads get some oil on them being that they are under the chain!.--I run a 2-nut on that ADJ.,& never had a problem with that happening!.--It never happened to me when I ran 1-nut!--As even if it loosens ( it cant turn loose!)--But what can happen if the nut comes loose is the rod will move-(up--down)--& this will make you apply more brake when you use it!---Reason being alot of the times ,the ADJ. is near the END of the rods threads.--EX.,---on a bike I worked on this was the issue!--It had 6-threads into the adjuster!, so when it loosened-up there was MOVEMENT!---2-nuts & no more problems!,--You can use LOC-TITE--But I strongly advise against this as when tranny & rear chain ADJ. take place-roughly--(400 miles??)-you risk stripping the nut or just having it become a PITA!---2-nuts = no headache!---Just my 2 on it!--Respectfully,--RICHIE