Rocker Foot Clutch

[CaptMike]

Simple question, I've looked but can't find a good drawing on the H-D Foot Clutch rocker. I have two star washers and two fixed round washer, one drawing I've found but was small only shows one star washer and one fixed washer. Is there nothing that goes between the Foot Rocker round boss to the frame mount boss? I checked both the Shop Manuals here last night and didn't find a picture and also in "How to Restore You H-D". (And for those of you who don't know, this bike belonged to my Best Friend who took it apart before we went to Daytona in 1979. He was killed in on a Sportster a week after Daytona and it's been in boxes for 32 years.)

[cdndewey]

The one you're showing iis for a 65 up aluminum primary. What year are you looking for ? Give me your e-mail address and I will scan and send you a PDF file of one.

[CaptMike]

PM Sent! Mine should(?) be a 1957.

[CaptMike]

Still Looking for a diagram, can someone post or tell me where to go or I'll put it together the way I think it should be.

Well, I knew if I dug long enough I'd find something some where. As I've said before, "Google" works better here for finding stuff than the search engine.

A Whole thread from a few years back (just in case some other poor soul is also searching for help).

V twin rocker clutch

[CaptMike]

Rocker clutch diagram

I'll ask myself another question...

What's the lever with the pin for that's under the pivot nut? Looking in all my (was) rusted parts I don't have it.

IMG_1926.jpg

[RUBONE]

The lever with the pin is specific to electric start models. Not used on earlier bikes. It is the pull rod location with aluminum primaries.
Robbie

[cdndewey]

That is what I meant with your picture showing a 65 up. Did you not get the parts scan I sent?

[58flh]

Captmike-----Clymers HD service manual has a section on what you need, Also the HD 1948-1957 greenish color manual has it all & in exploded view, every part numbered & explained! This is what you want!--Sorry about your Bro!. If you cant find it or dont have one already let me know & I will email you pics.Along with the ADJ.---58flh

[CaptMike]

That is what I meant with your picture showing a 65 up. Did you not get the parts scan I sent?

I didn't get it. Was it entitled "You Won" or "How To Make Your Penis 12" Longer" or "How To Get Asian Singles"? Yea, I got all that stuff.

Dewey, that lever on the back Baffles me... Even on a 1965. I owned a 1965 Panhead in the 1980's. Why in the hell did I trade it? (Dumb Ass, Me!) I honestly don't remember the lever on it. I know some of my old Pals kept asking me if I was an "UCA" (Under Cover Agent) because it was so friggin loud and never got a ticket. And it would Pop like a champ when you rolled the throttle off.

Captmike-----Clymers HD service manual has a section on what you need, Also the HD 1948-1957 greenish color manual has it all & in exploded view, every part numbered & explained! This is what you want!--Sorry about your Bro!. If you cant find it or dont have one already let me know & I will email you pics.Along with the ADJ.---58flh

Some Friggin Dirt Wad Stole my old Clymer H-D manual out of my desk (at work). If yours has about 15 H-D's written in the front, give it back it's Mine. And I had a H-D manual for the 1965 but I guess I smoked it cause I can't find it either.

As I've said, I'm all for a Gooood Puzzle but when you have extra parts that tends to FU the out come. I have two star washers and two flats that are for the stud (with the flats). I think from the picture I posted I understand now.

Thanks Guys

[Cotten]

CaptMike!

From what has been discussed upon this forum over the years about Clymer manuals, The Friggin Dirt Wad did you a favor.

And you are right, the diagram in your first post is a poor one: the 36899-41 friction disc is missing, although many folks dispense with it.
The opposite extreme are those who used two star washers for either enduro use, or because they weren't coordinated enough to get into neutral when coming to a stop.

Your photo shows the large washer and star spring as I would install them, however both your diagram and the Parts Book show them in reverse, reasons unknown.
You will want a proper 36880-36 spring as well.

Missing from all books is a stud that bolted to the bottom hole in the pedal, limiting travel of the pedal to the width of the rolled edges of the bracket. This not only keep the toe of the pedal from resting upon the footboard, it limits the sideways travel of the clutch drum upon the hub, to the advantae of longer chain life.

My first '65 came with this cad stud, affixed with a 5/16"-24 bolt with a circle-F marking.

....Cotten

[CaptMike]

Looking at the area where the Pedal contacts the bracket, I figured there was a Friction disc (but I don't have one). Ah you have to understand when you have a 24" over front-end and no front brake, that extra Star spring and washer came in handy. This is the Only Suicide/Jockey shift scooter I ever rode.

Hey I see J&P aka CCP (Cheap Chinese Parts) has one!

Yes, the Clymer I used for Torques (amusement) and to keep track of H-D's I've owned. (I always liked the Generic Paint and Body repair section. NOT.)

Off to Lowes for some 1/2" Pipe for frame repair.

[awander]

I must admit to being confused by this whole topic.

Is the pedal supposed to hold the clutch in the disengaged position, without the friction disk?

What is the talk of "safety" that seems to imply it must let the clutch automatically engage itself? Seems to me it would be the opposite way around.

Maybe if I had one, it would all be obvious to me....

[Cotten]

I must admit to being confused by this whole topic.

Is the pedal supposed to hold the clutch in the disengaged position, without the friction disk?

What is the talk of "safety" that seems to imply it must let the clutch automatically engage itself? Seems to me it would be the opposite way around.

Maybe if I had one, it would all be obvious to me....

Andy!

Back when footclutches were all there was, road conditions were quite different.
With a pedal that could be dampened to stay where you put it, it could be placed where it 'feathered' the clutch, allowing the rider to dismount and push through mud!

On dry pavement, however, a stiff pedal only means irratic launches, as there is little feel for when it grabs. Ideally, the tension would be set to where the opposing spring (36880-36) would hold the pedal out of engagement when the heel is fully depressed, allowing for a rider to lose his balance momentarily at a stop. The problem, however, is that so many riders came to depend upon it: vibration from the motor can easily cause the pedal to engage itself, launching the machine forward.
This was the original meaning of "suicide clutch".

An experienced rider will never need to depend upon a stiff pedal, by merely getting into neutral before coming to a stop. A rider who sits at an intersection in gear with his pedal in the air is an accident waiting to happen.

A pedal with the tension fully released is smoothest to engage, gentlest upon the clutch pack, and most comfortable when carrying a passenger, as the heel can be used alone, pulling itself back in gear like an auto.

As roads improved, and 'custom' machines became the rule rather than the exception, the treadle-pedals were often streamlined to simple toe-pedals, and assumed the 'suicide' nickname.

....Cotten

[RUBONE]

Despite what some say a well set up pedal with a friction disc and springs in place is a joy to use. Smooth as silk and no stickiness at all. The friction point is very obvious but the pedal will stay in any position it is put in. I've been riding rocker clutches for over forty years and always have used and always will use a friction disc. And I live in the mountains, not the flatland so they get plenty of use on a ride.
JMHO
Robbie

[awander]

Cotten, Robbie:

Thanks for weighing in, and helping my education.