Clutch hub nut come loose.

[1964 pan]

First time for every thing. I was about 15 miles from home. By the time I got home the only thing holding the basket on was the outer primary and derby cover. Reckon the Harley gods was looking down on me. The worst damage was chips knocked out around the key slot. It looks worse than it is. I think it is still runable.
Oh, crap. I forgot today is Friday the 13th.

[katto]

Id run it. Just make shure to replace key & locking tab with new.

[RUBONE]

That shaft should be clean and bright with no sign of rust on it. And the same on the hub. No doubt what contributed to the hub coming loose. The taper and friction are what hold them together, not the key. If they don't have a good clean surface to bond, it will happen again! Lap them together lightly to clean them up before you assemble them. and make sure they are clean and dry, no oil residue on them!
Robbie

[1964 pan]

Thanks,Robbie. Will do. And a drop or two of locktite on the treads of shaft. There was no sign of the key left any where.

[Bosheff]

Is there a chunk missing on the right side of the keyway, or is that just an illusion in the photo?....bosheff

[Robert Luland]

The way I look at is the only reason that nut lock tab gave way, was something was moving. Check that clutch hub good, I’m willing to bet there is a ton of slap in the key way in it. I‘m sure that all that mess didn’t happen in just fifteen miles and the hub is egged out. Bob L

[john HD]

that sucks, i'd clean the burrs off and lap the taper with valve grinding compound until everthing is nice and bright as robbie suggests.

clean it and assemble dry with a new key.

john

[Bigincher]

From the rust, I'd venture to say the hub has been loose on the shaft for awhile. I'm with Bob on this one...

[Panhead Ed]

Installing those hub locks can be tricky so pay close attention as they have atendency to twist at the last effort of tightening but have worked well for years if installed by a qualified mech. NO NEED FOR LOCKTIGHT.

[Bosheff]

When installing the lock tab and nut, lean the motorcycle as far over as possible to the kicker side. This will help in keeping the locktab in the clutch hub relief. Hand tighten the nut (left hand thread) until you are sure the tang is engaged, and there is no room for the locktab to slip out of the hub. Tighten to spec. Bend ear on tab....bosheff

[1964 pan]

All good advice,my friends. I have had my pan since 1974. But, it has been down for about 10 years. Just got it back together. Less than 100 miles on it. Short rides to break in easy and shake bugs out. I know exactly what happened. I did not get the hub tight enough for the tapers to lock into each other. The crud on the shaft did not help matters any.
I have lapped in, per Robbie's advice. Reassembled with new key. Really got hub tight on shaft. Eared lock washer in place. All tabs bent.
Back in the day I did this all the time as this was my only ride.
Just hope my left knee holds up. Already got replacement on right knee. Hell to get old.

[reddog74usa]

As previously mentioned with all that rust it has been loose for quite some time. I would really look at the hub and first see if it's an aftermarket as some of those did not fit correctly and then check to see if the hub fits perfectly on the main shaft. I would check it without the key way then with. If the hub doesn't fit perfectly I would get another one. It could have also been caused by someone using the wrong size key way (to large) that interfered with the hub fitting the main shaft. The hub fitting the main shaft taper without any wobble is what you need to have. Also make sure the threaded portion of the main shaft doesn't come through the hub so far that the nut doesn't hold the hub securely to the shaft. Good luck, RD

[Cotten]

RD!

Lapping, as previously suggested, is the best way to inspect both tapers. The areas of contact and interference are quickly visible.

Often forces upon the key can cause a bulge along an unbroken keyway, which can be lightly stoned and then lapped to perfection.
A dressed original hub or shaft is still superior to most modern replacements.

....Cotten

[reddog74usa]

Cotten you are correct. I didn't see that in the previous post, should have read it a bit better ahy.