My 55 pan is running a Rivera Proclutch. I'm not sure, but it seems like it might be slipping a little when I kick it over. The clutch doesn't slip when I'm riding, as far as I can tell.
As soon as I get my current project of getting my new shed wired, I'm planning to take the clutch apart and see how things. From the Rivera Engineering site, it looks like taking these clutches apart is pretty straightforward, and some adjustment can be made by using spacer washers of different thicknesses to control the pressure that the diaphragm exerts on the disks in the clutch. I'll be looking for disks that look worn or glazed and will give them a soak in some ATF before buttoning it up, if the disks look OK.
The Rivera website talks about making sure that there is a .030 gap that keeps the diaphragm spring from being completely flattened out. They show a drawing, but it's not clear to me how you get a feeling gauge in there on an actual clutch.
I'm guessing that some of you here have some experience with these clutches. Any words of wisdom you can pass my way?
Thanks,
Mark
EDIT: BTW, I did a search in past threads, and got only about 4 hits on "proclutch", none of which went into any detail.
Looking for Rivera Proclutch advice
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RussW
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2007 Kaw. Vulcan 2000 - Location: Western Mass
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Re: Looking for Rivera Proclutch advice
You will need a small straight edge, touching the two high points to get a feeler gauge between the edge of the spring and the straight edge. That clearer?? LOL. Any way, the clutch pack height comes set from Rivera, and I have not found a need to play with those shims, every time I try, it gets harder to adjust the clutch.
It is a very precise clutch to adjust. I have the Mousetrap Eliminator/ oil tank bracket, and I adjust ONE turn in or out to make a change. Because it is so precise, any play in the system adds to adjustment problems. A sloppy hand lever, and especially a thin, stretched clutch cable need to be addressed. I use the fattest cable I can find, not worried about it breaking but to get minimum cable compression. Set adjustment screw in pressure plate as Rivera instructs, fine tune with cable adjuster. There WILL be slack in the lever(about 1/4") when set right, and a nice clean disengage with no creep and minimum pull. Again, if you think you a slipping when kicking cold, back off the adjusted 1/2 to 1 turn at a time, that's all it takes.
It is a very precise clutch to adjust. I have the Mousetrap Eliminator/ oil tank bracket, and I adjust ONE turn in or out to make a change. Because it is so precise, any play in the system adds to adjustment problems. A sloppy hand lever, and especially a thin, stretched clutch cable need to be addressed. I use the fattest cable I can find, not worried about it breaking but to get minimum cable compression. Set adjustment screw in pressure plate as Rivera instructs, fine tune with cable adjuster. There WILL be slack in the lever(about 1/4") when set right, and a nice clean disengage with no creep and minimum pull. Again, if you think you a slipping when kicking cold, back off the adjusted 1/2 to 1 turn at a time, that's all it takes.