Testing Shifting and Clutch on 60 Panhead

[chadu607]

I am rebuilding a 60 panhead (mut). The last time I remember it running was when I was in kindergarden on the back holding onto the sissy bar and my Dad driving. That was over 30 years ago!..
so, I have it mostly build and was hoping to test the clutch, shifting, etc while it's up on the blocks.. Don't have the motor running yet either.
I tried spinning the rear tire and operating the clutch and foot shifter to see if it would go into gear.. but doesn't seem to do anything. Is this normal? i'd hate to get it all build up and find that the trans isn't working..
As far as I know, it worked up to when my Dad parked it back in the early 90's. Unfortunately he has passed on so I can't ask..

How can I test the workings or do I need to get it running first?
thanks

ChadU607
http://www.60panhead.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Robert Luland]

Chad it appers that your clutch is no ingaging. Getting it running is always a plus but the tranny should still shift though buy turning the rear wheel. Bob

[chadu607]

Hey thanks Robert.. I tried adjusting the clutch and mousetrap with the instructions in the Clymer book. I found another post on this site about how to correctly adjust it. So far, it still almost takes two hands to pull the clutch lever in... I have a lot of work to so still and knowing how it should work helps a lot.. I think once I can get everything adjusted better it will work out ok.

Chad

[Robert Luland]

Chad have you had the clutch pack apart?

[chadu607]

Ya, completely.. I got the clutch kit from JP Cycles (630-306) and had to remove the pads from one side of a disk. It all went together pretty easily so i didn't see any problem.. you can see the adjustment screw moving out and in as you pull the clutch lever.
Here's the thing.. when I got the bike it was in many parts.. I completely disassembled what was left down to the frame and boxed up the parts for about 2 or 3 years. so now i'm putting it together.
I wonder if there's a problem with the clutch arm not connected right inside the trans.. the action seems right but that thought bugs me. At one point it fell out of the trans and i had a hell of a time getting it put back in. I didn't remove the cover but I could see the internals where the lever fit so I threaded it in and maybe wishfull thinking, but it seemed fine.

Chad

[lovestory]

chad, excuse me if this is too simple, dont know your wrenching experience
but if this is your first time adjusting the clutch or first time with adjusting a mousetrap, it will probably take a few times before you get it right...ask me how I know..!
nice bike by the way

[chadu607]

No, it's probably that simple. I have never had a problem working on cars.. 68 'stang, Firebird, camaro, etc.. first time on a motorcycle though.. sorta.. i got an 81 honda to start once and sold it..
up till now, i have mostly been cleaning and reburbishing parts but getting into the mechanical stuff, i want to make sure it right before i start it up and end up turning the trans into a pencil sharpener! or worse..


chad

[Robert Luland]

Chad when you said that almost takes two hand to pull the clutch lever. It leeds me to believe the clutch is wide open. Diconnect the clutch rod and see if the rear wheel locks up. Bob L

[chadu607]

Ok, I went through the clutch adjustments and was able to get it to where i can pull the lever with one hand and it pulls the clutch arm forward and when i release it snaps back.. there is about 1/4 inch play in the clutch release lever when not gripping the hand lever... when the clutch is disengaged the lever is at 90 deg to the front/back axis of the bike...
still waiting for new parts for final adjustment..
however, still not shifting..
I removed the clutch connecting rod so that the clutch release lever is in the fully engaged position.. and even with about 1" of play from where it hits the oil pan base plate (or battery plate)..
I can still spin the rear wheel forward and back...
I put a bar on the lever, fully disengaged it and while spinning the wheel forward, pulled up (and down) on the foot shift (.. as one person doing it kinda resembled a strange game of biker twister ..) Releasing the clutch.. ng still.
I even tried moving the clutch by hand cranking the engine (with the 1/2" ratchet and sprocket tool), no good here either getting the trans to switch. (I did notice that the chain oiler works.. wasn't sure about that
The clutch itself seems correct.. I double checked the clearance of 31/32 for the springs.. it was 1/2 turn to big, so i set it dead on at .97" on my dial micrometer.
I connected an ohmeter to the neutral switch and it reads about 190 ohms. when moving the foot shift up or down it changed to about 130 ohms.. I was expecting either infinite or 0 ohms.. but in either case.. didn't seem to be doing anything.

so all in all, the action seems right.. I have parts that should show up tomorow from jp cycles and i'm working on my final wish list at debrix.com to be able to start up the bike and mount the final parts.. including the wiring harness, some mounting bolts and screws and other misc parts.

thanks guys!