What do most of you run for your clutch - the correct 3 1/2 plate with spring disk or the later 5 plate used on the shovelheads?
Pros and cons? Any issues with clearance using the later setup with tin primary?
Early or Late style clutch
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Early or Late style clutch
Last edited by keiser on Thu May 29, 2008 4:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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My objective experience is that my 86" 65' with a hack (and too light of flywheels) would spin a "5"-plate assembly until the steel plates burnt into a 'rosette' pattern, like flower petals. Twice.
Instead of ordering new, I hurriedly stuffed in some fat fossil friction discs and rust-pitted steels out of 'the Pit', but no spring plate since you can't hear a grunch through the aluminum casting anyway. They are still in there years later (on a second motor!).
Either styles of covers will accomodate any clutch pack. Ignore the book measurement and strive for a pressureplate that fully disengages parallel with a minimum travel of the clutch arm, with free play upon the throwout bearing. Its easy.
....Cotten
PS: If you are running a belt, you will probably only find "5" packs for dry service.
Instead of ordering new, I hurriedly stuffed in some fat fossil friction discs and rust-pitted steels out of 'the Pit', but no spring plate since you can't hear a grunch through the aluminum casting anyway. They are still in there years later (on a second motor!).
Either styles of covers will accomodate any clutch pack. Ignore the book measurement and strive for a pressureplate that fully disengages parallel with a minimum travel of the clutch arm, with free play upon the throwout bearing. Its easy.
....Cotten
PS: If you are running a belt, you will probably only find "5" packs for dry service.