Clutch basket question

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54panman
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Clutch basket question

#1

Post by 54panman »

hey all, i noticed yesterday that when i pull my clutch the basket was moving in and out!!! took it apart this morn and the basket pretty much slid right off after i pulled the disks.... is that normal??? also i notice some fiber looking material missing from behind where the basket would go, how do i fix that??? and get the big nut off? as well any advice on changing the seal to the left of the shaft on the tranny mine is leaking like a siv..... see the pic thanks
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#2

Post by Guest »

54Panman. If you have already gone this far pull the tranny main shaft seal and check how much pay is in the main shaft fourth gear shaft bushing. No you do not need that fancy tool from Harley Davidson. Just drill a couple of small holes on the face of the seal face and screw in a dent puller and yank that sucker out the getto way. Replacing it is just as easy. A pipe nipple with a cap and a ball pean. Now the fiber stuff is just as easy. First off did the rivets score the rear drum surface? If they did and it’s bad go get yourself a new clutch drum. If the back of the clutch drum is oky-doky. Get your self a 37590-41 disk with rivets or have your local shop rivet it on. If the don’t have the press just go to your local old brake shop. Don’t forget to change the seal in the clutch hub nut. Hope this helps, Bob
54panman
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#3

Post by 54panman »

HEY BOB ya that helps.... i got the big nut off now im trying to get the hub off... im soaking it right now... but i tried a backing the big nut off 2 or 3 turns and sliding a deep socket over it with a whack to free it but its not working any ideas? and i think your right, i pulled the tranny out and since i did so i think i might just give it a good once over all the way around... just gotta figure out what all to do and where to start thanks panman
Skip
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#4

Post by Skip »

remember it is a left hand thread!.........Skip
Robert Luland
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#5

Post by Robert Luland »

Skip your a good man. 54 I'm sorry that was the one thing I should have mentioned. Not only is the tread left hand. I have no clue how your going to get that hub off without a puller. If you try to fug this one you will runnen the hub. Do your self a favor and take that puppy down to the local chopper chop and have them the pull it off. If ya got one you frequent. They will proable do it for free. If they won't. Dump'em! To go and blow $40 clams to by the tool is a waste. Bob
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#6

Post by Panacea »

The first tool you need if you own a panhead is the manual. The second is a clutch hub puller. Mike
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#7

Post by Cotten »

Besides all of the problems already noted,
lateral travel of the clutch basket is inherent in the original design, and a major cause of chain and sprocket wear .

Modern innovations such as a "Tamer" are a prudent upgrade, especially for footclutch models. They limit the basket's lateral travel quite effectively using materials that were not available to the original designers.

...Cotten
PS: Money spent on a tool is never wasted.
Last edited by Cotten on Thu May 15, 2008 3:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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#8

Post by mbskeam »

do not use a puller that grabs the backside of the hub this will bend it. use one that takes nuts on the studs. I use a old clutch plate and the T part of a puller hold the T in place, slide the stud of the T thru thr clutch plate hole and onto the studs, then nut this,then thighten the big bolt till the T is tight up to the plate, then when all is square and good. tighten it some more, if it dont wont to come off, give the puller bolt head a pop with the hammer and the hub should POP right off, hang on to it as it will jump right at ya.....LOL
or you could just spin the nut off about 1-1/2 turns an use a large brass drift and a big ol hammer a few solid POPS and it should also come off, but this is only if the right tools are not around.....
I never have done it this way.... :wink:

mbskeam
VT

#9

Post by VT »

Clymers Manual tells you how to pull the clutch. Vol. 1 shows you how to pull the clutch, plus replace the hub liner. You have a good project, spend the money to buy the ''49-57 service manual, or the 59-69 factory book or Clymers, or Vol. 1, and buy only the tools you need from Kick-Start (616) 245-8991. It's all listed and pic-ed in Vol. 1. Don't go it "alone" - sooner or later you'll be sorry.
www.brattons.com/ has a $25.00 riveter that will work. It's for brake linings.
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#10

Post by fourthgear »

Get a Nylatron free floating clutch hub lining and you won't need rivets .

Here is a photo of my home made puller I have used for over twenty five years ( repainted many times ). In this photo I am pulling the drum and hub off together because this system not only has the Clutch Tamer on it( the clutch hub nut holds the drum on ), but also the long , no cage clutch bearing set up and I did not want to play "52 Pick up ".

The drum should pull free when clutch plates are removed , stock system , the clutch plates hold it on.
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54panman
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#11

Post by 54panman »

hey yall thanks for the help so far.... heres where im at: trannys out, clutchs, drum,hub and sprocket are off... i dont see any damage to the componets other then the hub friction disc and it doesnt appear the 1 peice seal/ hub nut is not leaking just the main seal... so couple holes, dent puller wha-la its out... i tried to lifted/wiggle the end of the main shaft & no movement... only on the spocket spline shaft it moves in and out alittle. so ???? new seal and im good????? anything else???? oh and i have a manual but i never have found it much use with the one bike, with so much being aftermarket!!! thanks panman
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#12

Post by 54panman »

anyone have the part # for the tranny main seal???? this local guy are worthless when it comes to older bikes!!!
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#13

Post by panhead »

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