Kevlar clutch plates

[thebeast]

Purchased a set of Kevlar clutch plates as recommended by several on this board. After looking in the Knowledge Base, I see where some installed the Kevlars after soaking in transmission fluid and wiping them dry. Is this nesassary when running a dry clutch?
Also ordered steel disks with the rattlers, trying to quiet the clutch noise down somewhat. This is my second attempt with rattlers,the steels I've been using came with them but they where poorly made so I removed them from the disks and have been running them like that that thus the noise.
Is there any difference with clutch release/smoothness with or without the rattlers?
49 fl with rocker clutch.
Thanks, James

[thebeast]

I had asked a similar question a couple of months back and found 58flh's reply and he stated to soak em overnight in ATF. I ll take his advice.
Sorry I didn't use the search properly before posting my questions.
Thanks, James

[Schwee]

I just ordered "ENERGY ONE Big Twin Clutch Components" with Kevlar plates from J&P for my '57 with belt and open primary.
The "special Note" on this item said for dry clutch only. But, one of the Reviews said that J&P Tech Support told him to soak them for 24 hours.
Didn't say what to soak them in or anything, so I Online Chatted with J&P Tech Support. Willy there told me not to soak them; that's only for wet clutch implementations.
Next day I get a phone call (Phone Call!) from Ryan Polk there, head of their Tech team.
He said that the manufacturer recommends soaking the plates for 15 minutes in whatever you run in your tranny. Even for dry clutch/open primary.
He said that he would straighten out their staff on recommendation on this issue.

[thebeast]

Schwee
Sounds like the same plates I ordered from J&P, they where delivered today. The instructions seem to be pretty liberal in what you can soak em in. I'm running a dry clutch myself so I'll soak em in whatever I have laying around. 10w20 or 10w40 conventional. 10 or 15 minutes as recommended by Energy One.I'm waiting for the steel plates with rattlers to come in, (Alto) hopefully they will be better constructed than the previous set I installed. Ended up removing the rattlers on those. Worked ok without em, just noisy.
Thanks, James

[58flh]

Morning fellows!---Yea JPs tech support is just looking at a database of what you purchased ,then just re-READING the instructions as if its going to work!.I have been thru Alot of different clutches!/& These ENERGY ONE KEVLAR lined discs are the best I ever had in her!.I like it better then my OEM-Discs /still new in the box!.Most all clutches when they say dry /you are still going to get a misting from the breather on any HD.Mine came with instructions to SOAK for 15-MIN. in ATF.Then wipe dry & install.But I got to thinking & I know KEVLAR is a great addition to clutches & Belts & 1-thing bothered me GUYS were complaining of a Grabby clutch /I read one that said In 1st at a light at Idle--He had to hold the brake as there was considerable pull & his knees couldnt take it!.So I soaked them for 24hrs. & wiped them dry with a rag!/Its been 3& a half YRS. now AT 70% 2-up riding & I olny ADJ. it after a tranny chain pullback.Another thing Inside my Primary has been CLEANER then with the OEM discs.And these Kevlar clutches show no sign of wear!--I Niked a few before installing & Im like minus .001 on a few & that could be just hand pressure!.Another interesting thing is IM still using my OEM steels.& where the kevlars ride (as there not as wide as OEM discs)-Theres no wear or bluing.So for $72 I got full discs & steels!/I put on alot of miles & to me You cant beat them stats/& Price ----Respectfully----Richie

[thebeast]

58flh
From your experience, sounds like you prefer to soak the Kevlars in ATF. The EnergyOne instuctions said ATF (No Dextron) or motor oil to prevent "glazing". Is there an advantage to using ATF over conventional oil? If so,I'll go pick up a guart!
Thanks, James

[kevock1950]

I wouldn't recommend it...dry is dry...wet is wet. I also heeded the advice to soak the kevlars in ATF. After wiping them clean and re-installing them into service, I found them to weep ATF over the next week and get sticky. Ill never do it again.

I just bought a new set of plates and re-installed dry...after a few weeks of service they perform better than OEM.

[Schwee]

Well, my new Kevlar plates arrive tomorrow.

What's the consensus here for regular old dry clutch? Soak or not to soak?

[james]

I put my discs in dry like oem and they work fine. Richie puts on a lot more miles than I do so it looks like it's your call on this one.
The clutch setup was meant to run dry, if I had an enclosed wet primary I would soak without question.
Try it dry, if you don't like the way it feels take them out and soak them.
Either way let us know how it turns out.

Cheers,
Jim M

[58flh]

Guys I can tell you this/I use my bike daily.& kevlar clutches need a overnite soaking!--Then wipe dry with a rag /Stand them up & they will weep before even being installed!--You must get ALL the ATF-(REGULAR)-off them & that means between the gap & rivets!.-(I SHOULD of been more clear,my bad -Sorry).Yea I used Air to blow out all the crevaces!.& No complaints!--I got a few oldies running them & they ride weekends ,not as much as I do & they have no ISSUES with them. Is a panhead a dry-clutch?-Yes if your thinking of spinning in oil!-But THEY all get OIL on them from the oiler & breather.Thats why there are weeps drilled in primaries!.I have a NEW OEM set that I was waiting to install!/But tried these Krvlars by ENERGY ONE CLUTCHES,& Ill put them in again when the time comes & give the used ones to my buddie whos VERY CHEAP & he will probably run them for a year or 2 more!.After the long soak ,Nothing swelled & I got no chatter.grabby,nothing.I can run the greats at idle (950RPM)-up & down & Neautrals a breeze!.However I can understand it if they were not fully soaked & not dried properly---Its normal for a disc to get sticky,gummy,call it what you will.But I have put these in newer sportsters/& Twinkies love-em cause they go thru more rubber then disc.I Recomend them to any brother who needs a good lasting clutch!.James im in no way saying you did not have a problem!-I believe you did!.Try taking the slack to .125 on the handle foot whatever your running.Thats where I keep mine I run an Eliminater/& most Important MY hub does not walk!/Thats really the way to clutch happiness!.I used barnnetts /TWICE/BOTH times I hated them -To get them to shift up/down & N while idling IT took ALOT of unesessary work & spring swaps!.The olny thing I truly can say outside of OEM clutches /is the Energy One.---Good-Luck---Respectfully----Richie

[thebeast]

Success!!! Soaked the plates in 10w30 about 5min. wiped em down and let em sit while removing the primary and clutch. Installed new discs with rattlers. Alto brand. Adjusted collar to pressure plate to 1". Quieter when disengaged and shifts up and down a lot smoother, no hunting for gears. No creepn' at stop lites.(not yet).
Best thing since sliced bread? Maybe my old clutch was shot.
Thanks to all, James

[Schwee]

Not Happy.
Soaked 'em in 10w40 for 24 hours.
Wiped 'em clean.
Let them weep for 4 hours.
Installed.
Test ride: Grabbing in neutral and hard to shift.

Aftermarket suicide clutch. Been running this linkage since 1976; love it because with the old Barnett or OEM, pedal travel was only an inch or two.
Guess I'll screw with it later today.

[thebeast]

Schwee, maybe back off the spring height? My stack height was more than my old set. New versus old. Plates and discs. I just left it at 1" and had no slippage.
Let us know what you find out.
Thanks,James

[Schwee]

Hi, James.
Not sure how backing off the spring height could change this, but I did it anyway. Results in a little further pedal travel is all.

I took all the discs and plates out yesterday and re-wiped them.
Checked to make sure the clutch hub and everything was installed correctly.
(Did I mention that part of this "upgrade" was the replacement also of the clutch hub?)
Yeah, my old original clutch hub was badly worn. It was not new when I bought the bike in 1974.

So, after all was back together again, same issue. As soon as I put it into first, it tries to creep forward.
Changing gears is tough but made easier by a good engine rev between shifts.
With engine off and tranny in neutral, I can push the clutch pedal down with one hand and rotate the clutch hub with the other, so I think it's adjusted OK.

Does this sound like it will settle in after a few (hundred) miles?

[Schwee]

Went on a Toys for Tots run yesterday. Lots of shifting.
The Kevlars are still making for a semi-rough shift, but better than Saturday, and not creeping so much in First.
They seem to be settling in. I think it's going to be OK. Sad that they weren't perfect from the get-go.