Clutches not fully disengaging

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panheadvin
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Clutches not fully disengaging

#1

Post by panheadvin »

I can not get my clutches to fully disengage. It is driveable but the clutches drag while sitting at a light. I can not get it out of gear. I have the pushrod adjusted in so that the clutch release lever on top of the trans goes back as far as possible but not the 4-1/4" that the book calls for. When the clutch is pulled in the clutch release lever hits the shifter cover on top of the trans at the end of its travel. has anyone run into this problem before? The only thing I can think of is that there is something wrong just inside the kicker cover. Maybe the release finger or the clutch release bearing not pushing the pushrod over far enough.
It is a 1948 panhead with mouse trap and hand clutch. I have taken the clutch plates out and cleaned them. Also cleaned and straightened all of the pins on the clutch hub that the clutches ride on. They ride smooth. It is a 4 speed OEM trans with chain primary and rear drive.
Tattoo
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Re: Clutches not fully disengaging

#2

Post by Tattoo »

How much travel are you getting?
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Re: Clutches not fully disengaging

#3

Post by RUBONE »

Do you have the correct fork for the pushrod and the correct rod? And the 4-1/4 inch measurement is a diagonal, not straight measurement.
58flh
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Re: Clutches not fully disengaging

#4

Post by 58flh »

Rubone beat ne to it/There are the old style forks that have a split in the middle & the p-rod has a tit that goes into it!--This is the largest p-rod with a tit./The other P-rod has a shoulder & its faced-off flat at the Fork end.---Also is your clutches spinning round & round without a wobble or hi-top to it?-If its not turning straight ADJ. the 3-nuts until it is running circularly-straight.Start at the Hi-spot & go from there.---Good-Luck---RICHIE
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Re: Clutches not fully disengaging

#5

Post by VPH-D »

To what height are your clutch springs adjusted?
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panheadvin
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Re: Clutches not fully disengaging

#6

Post by panheadvin »

How would I know if I have the correct fingers, throw-out bearing and pushrod? the clutch release lever over the trans does not go back the 4-1/4". I can only get it to adjust back to 4". and I know its on the diagonal. my springs are adjusted out past the 31/32" to just over 1" and I still do not get enough disengagement. I can't find that measurement but as I remember they should disengage about 5/32" and I'm not getting that much. thus the clutches drag while sitting at a light and I can not get it out of gear even while coasting up to a light.
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Re: Clutches not fully disengaging

#7

Post by Tattoo »

4" is plenty of travel....... You have something out of adjustment..... Or your clutch basket is running out...... Are you sure you have the correct number and year clutches and plates??
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Re: Clutches not fully disengaging

#8

Post by doc308 »

I just had the same problem, which occurred after I installed a new, aftermarket kicker cover. The pushrod fork was right up against the the inside of the kicker cover wall. The cover was too thick and prevented the pushrod to be adjusted enough for the proper clutch arm throw. In my case, I couldn't get any more than about 3 3/4 " measurement between the edge of the ratchet drum and the end of the clutch rod. I replaced the kicker cover and the issue disappeared.
panheadvin
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Re: Clutches not fully disengaging

#9

Post by panheadvin »

Doc308 - How did you know the fingers where hitting the kicker cover plate? I haven't taken it off yet but it seams like with the cover off I won't be able to tell if it was hitting the cover.
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Re: Clutches not fully disengaging

#10

Post by doc308 »

I began to question if something was hanging up the clutch rod adjustment and I removed the cover to investigate. I noticed that the wall of the aftermarket junk cover was a lot thicker that the stock cover--ie there was not enough room for the claw to be adjusted far enough back without hitting the cover wall. Also this cover had one of those oil level readers--an allen screw in the side of the cover. The screw was threaded into the cover and was located right where the claw is. I removed the screw, which made for more room, but the cover wall was still too thick to allow for a normal adjustment. Installing a stock cover solved the problem.

I should note that I've used this same type of aftermarket cover before on other panheads, but this was the first time I encountered this problem with one. If you have one of those covers it might be the cause of your problem.
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Re: Clutches not fully disengaging

#11

Post by docmel »

I have had that aftermarket kick cover prob as well. Look at the inside of your kicker cover. If you see marks in the area where your TO bearing has touched thats your prob. You know, I wonder if the after market kick covers were designed and cast to use the newer snowflake wafer type TO bearings instead of the older big TO bearings Im gonna start a post on that
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Re: Clutches not fully disengaging

#12

Post by 58flh »

Panheadvin---You asked how would you know if you have which TO-FORK?---The Old Forks have a split in them.& the P-rod has a Tit on the end that will fit into the SLOT when pulled.You dont need much movement to release the discs!.I know mine has the old-style fork & I run the rod that was explained-(with the TIT).MY arm travel is 3/16s/& I can run the gears & have no grabby clutch.When you start your bike ,have the cover off & watch how the drum is acting.If it dont turn stright in a circle -but wobbles.Pull both sparkplugs & kick it over until you find your hi-spot.Tighten it a turn & recheck it.Keep doing this until its turning in a circle with no wobble to it.Once you have that ,your going to have to ADJ. the Rod again.Loosen the 9/16 nut & backoff the screw until loose,Then tighten until it gets some resistence & give it a 1/8 more & TIGHTEN the nut.Check for freeplay at the handle & ADJ. until theres almost none/I run an 1/8th.Pull the clutch & release it a few times,you may find you have to ADJ. more.Put the plugs in & fire-up/ the hub should have no wobble & minimal WALK!.If good take it for a spin & run threw the gears.It should shift smoothly & without effort.If you need more on the pull for release.Try to tighten the rod a skosh more/& take-up some more freeplay at the handle.You should be fine.If not /check the arm where the cable seats & see if its worn more then usual.If so You can bend it VERY slightly or put a new one on.I would Bend it a 1/8th & no more.Then readjust again.---Respectfully---Richie
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