Clutch pushrod ?

[xlch72]

Pushrod lateral.jpg

What is an acceptable side play for a pushrod? I'm having pushrod and adjusting screw issues like Faustmill had viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9065&hilit=Clutch+p ... h+other+up I'm getting a reading of .010 to .012.

[Cotten]

xlch72!

You know already that sweet but free is best.
Look in both ends of the shaft for a removeable steel (or whatever) bushing.

If its not there, you may be dealing with 'aftermarket disease'.

Otherwise, its an easy fix. Even Tedd Cycle has the replacements.

Good luck!

...Cotten

[xlch72]

Yes it is an aftermarket mainshaft and no it does not have bushings. I'm step by step trying to figure out why I'm tearing up pushrods and screws. I hoped when I rebuilt the tranny (RevTech close ratio set with new mainshaft) it would resolve the problem but no luck yet. It appears the pushrod stops turning and grinds away on the screw.

[RUBONE]

When the clutch is disengaged the rod needs to spin freely with the throwout bearing and within the shaft as it is turning with the clutch. When the clutch is engaged the rod should float and not contact the screw at all. The bushings allow it to move back and forth and keep it from contacting the inside of the mainshaft thus reducing friction on it when it is under tension from the clutch lever or pedal. It is generally at the same speed as the mainshaft (same as clutch speed) except during engagement or disengagement when it is moving at pressure plate speed and spinning with the inner throwout bearing and pressure plate, not mainshaft speed. If it is ever allowed to bind in the mainshaft or not have enough free play it will try to seize.

[xlch72]

It's acting like the pushrod (I'm on the fourth new one) and throwout bearing (number 3) stop spinning when the clutch is even partially disengaged, causing the adjusting screw to start grinding. My first thought was the new mainshaft was bent so I put the dial indicator on and got .003 out reading. That's not "bent" enough to cause the problem is it?

[58flh]

Throwout bering should spin FREELY.--& the rod needs room thru the shaft & no binding!--Beware aftermarket rod is not weak to where it curves or bends when you pull the clutch lever.---If bushed correctly & ADJ. right with a good BERING -She should be smooth & no troubles!---If your getting wear marks on the ends & especialy where the ADJ. makes contact!--I would question the pushrods matieral itself!---Respectfuly---RICHIE

[Faustmill]

OK. I am going to come clean on this -- my problem was caused by my own ignorance. After tearing up 2 or 3 pushrods, installing a couple different throw out bearings, and pulling the primary and kicker covers several time , I finally discovered that I had the mousetrap adjusted too close to the wire. That is, I adjusted the mousetrap in the garage with the bike cold. Then, on a ride the bike would heat up AND THE MOUSETRAP LINKAGE WOULD LOOSEN UP. It only loosened up a bit, but it was enough that some times the mousetrap would not flip back over top dead center. I was unaware that it had not flipped over, so kept going, which is like constantly riding the clutch for 30 miles or more. So during this time, the throw out bearing, pushrod, and pushrod adjusting screw were all mashed together and turning, which actually welded the adjusting screw to the pushrod on one occasion. If you are having your problem on assembly in the garage, then I guess this will not help you. But when you are on the road, lean over and look at your mousetrap to make sure it popped back over top dead center. Also, your clutch lever (at the handlebars) will go a little slack if it does not pop over, so pay attention to this as well. I am now damn near an expert on mousetrap adjustment, but I definitely learned the hard way. Good luck.

[xlch72]

I can't imagine a mainshaft would be bent right out of the box but, stranger things have happened.

If it's NOT bent and the bushings in it are ok, what else could cause the pushrod to stop spinning when the clutch is disengaged?

At this point I'm willing to think way "outside the box" and check anything!!

[Cotten]

Don't feel bad, Faustmill!

Many a foot-clutch rider has burnt something because he had the pedal pansy-tight, and accomplished the same thing.

....Cotten
PS: Xlch72!
I have encountered an Andrews mainshaft where one end was not machined concentric with the other.

But that was years ago...

PPS: Xlch72!

Does your clutch hub pinch that "supernut"?

[old.wrench]

xlch,
When you mentioned the "grinding noise" it made me think about freeplay. How much freeplay do you allow when you adjust your clutch? What operating system do you use, hand lever (with or without mousetrap) or foot clutch?

Geo.

[xlch72]

This is a Frankenstein bike. '59 motor, pre '55 rigid frame, suicide clutch and frame mounted "police" hand shift. When I adjust the clutch I screw the adjusting screw in (clockwise) till the release lever is fully rearward then back the screw counterclockwise a 1/4 turn. I'm able to move the release lever back and forth (all the way back and then forward just till the pushrod contacts the screw) with a finger. I believe this gives me enough free play. This problem has been getting progressively worse. Now when I just slightly disengage (not fully) the clutch it immediatly starts to grind.Right now I'm in the process of disassembling the clutch side to make sure the mainshaft and the motor sprocket shaft are parallel. I just miked the ID on both ends of the mainshaft and got .382. I read somewhere that the bushings from Eastern MC mike out at .384.

2 winters ago I replaced the stock gearset with a RevTech close ratio gearset. Any washer, lock washer, key etc. that looked even marginally worn was replaced. This was my first 4 speed tranny job (I've done Twin Cam and Sporty trannys before) and it IS absolutely possible I didn't do a perfect job but, aside from the clutch problem it ran and shifted fine!!

I've already taken apart the arrgh 5 stud hub and relubed it, checked the shell (it was tight on the rivets) and replaced the releasing disc. All the friction and drive discs looked fine, no signs of abnormal wear. Rechecked the kicker side and made sure I was getting the I was getting the little ball on the starter clutch lined up with the"slot" on the throwout bearing.

I THINK I'm doing everything properly which is why I'm more than willing to "think outside the box".

Thanks for all the responses all the help is greatly appreciated.

Sorry about all the rambling while describing things but, this thing has got my brain spinning!!!

PS. I've been riding and wrenching since the mid '70s and even did a couple year stint in a Harley dealership as a "technician" (don't get me started on the so called Harley techs nowadays) and consider myself a fair mechanic, not an ex spurt but at least fair.

[xlch72]

Hub.jpg

Cotten
No signs of rubbing on the hub from the supernut. Just a scrape from the oil deflector from the the reassembly test kick which I fixed

[Cotten]

Xlch72!

Good thing you don't have a pre-65 hub.

But if the "supernut" does its job, why use a deflector?

Thanks in advance,

....Cotten

[xlch72]

I just figured having both wouldn't hurt anything.

I just checked and the two shafts appear to be parallel so that's doesn't seem to be the cause

[Huck]

Is it possible your suicide clutch peddle, weight is interfering with your un-actuated adjustment? Possibly riding the rod a bit.