Cycle electric generator wiring

[longhorn]

I have a 64 swap meet special, the only thing 64, is the left case. I've made my own wiring harness, who knows if it's right, although I was riding her tonight. I have a Cycle Electric generator, I have the B terminal to the positive side of the battery, I have the wire off of the A terminal running to a "Short Stop", (I also have the neutral switch, and the oil pressure switch running to the same SS), The other wire from the "SS" to the ignition switch. When I turned the ignition switch on, the generator light came on, when I started the bike, the light stayed on. As I revved the engine the light got brighter, and I think burned out. What am I doing wrong? Jim

[fourthgear]

longhorn
What is the short stop you are referring to? Circuit breaker? The Gen. light should come on when you turn the ign. switch on, but getting brighter is not supposed to happen upon revving , it should go out if you are charging. I had a grounded wire to the Gen. once and it fried the bulb in the Gen. light , something to check. You should also check your charging system for proper operation. You also don't say anything about a voltage reg. or relay. If you wired it your self , what wiring schematic did you go by?

[longhorn]

Fourthgear; The short stop is a circuit breaker, I use-em in my shovels, for insurance. I'm not really using a schematic, just punting. I like to think I know what I'm doing, obviously I don't! I did get the generator light to go out, for about 15 miles. Then it came back on, I think my charging system is junk,460 miles per generator-regulator, not good. Anybody have a decent Harley 65 generator? The generator showed 16 volt's going to the battery, not sure if the regulator or the generator, is junk? Had to recharge my battery after limping home. Any idea's on how to test each component? Thank's Jim

[fourthgear]

lonhorn
Look into the knowledge base on this sight and look at electrical, on the third page for wiring schematics to double check how it compares with yours , you may have missed something . 16 volts is kinda high , was that at 2000 rpms? It appears your system is (charging ) putting out ,but high and how old is your Battery ? Do you have a Panhead service manual ? If not you should get at least one if you don't already, they have all the testing procedures in them.

[kell]

Your post is kind of confusing.
What kind of regulator do you have, is it mechanical or solid state? Is the regulator a separate unit, or is it the end cap CE regulator, or what? From your post I would have almost guessed you didn't have a regulator at all, but you said something about a B terminal, so you must have one.

I've never worked with mechanical regulators, but you would wire a solid state regulator like this: a wire should go from the generator's A terminal directly into the appropriate connection on the regulator. another wire should go from the generator's F terminal directly to the appropriate connection on the regulator. The battery should get wired to yet another connection on the regulator (presumably the one you called "B"). And the regulator needs a good ground.
Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that mechanical regulators use the same wiring scheme.

[58flh]

IF your putting 16V back at the battery!,YOU are overcharging!--If Mechanical reg. ,you can twak it to put 14 at 2000RPM back into the batt. & I would tweak it with the HEADLIGHT on!. I am running a 65A genny 12V system. Delco remy reg. for a 50s chevy!--This being the case ,the reg. can just be bolted in as its a high-output set-up for a car!--SO I set to manual specs., first!--Then if to high I tweak the point gaps until IM putting 14VOLTS back into the BATT. with the HALOGEN headlight on!---I also rebuilt my genny!--The arm. was fried--I got a 12V from JP cycles for $72. The olny thing you have to do is turn down the neddle-bering end to fit the bering!-(any machine shop can do this in 5 min.)--IF you dont have access, you can chuck it in a drill & put in vise & with a second-cut file -file the beringshaft down checking with a mic. as not to go to far!----RICHIE

[58flh]

IF your putting 16V back at the battery!,YOU are overcharging!--If Mechanical reg. ,you can twak it to put 14 at 2000RPM back into the batt. & I would tweak it with the HEADLIGHT on!. I am running a 65A genny 12V system. Delco remy reg. for a 50s chevy!--This being the case ,the reg. can just be bolted in as its a high-output set-up for a car!--SO I set to manual specs., first!--Then if to high I tweak the point gaps until IM putting 14VOLTS back into the BATT. with the HALOGEN headlight on!---I also rebuilt my genny!--The arm. was fried--I got a 12V from JP cycles for $72. The olny thing you have to do is turn down the neddle-bering end to fit the bering!-(any machine shop can do this in 5 min.)--IF you dont have access, you can chuck it in a drill & put in vise & with a second-cut file -file the beringshaft down checking with a mic. as not to go to far!----RICHIE

USE good hi-temp wheelbering grease on the shaft end. & put new BRUSHES in!!!! ,THEY are CHEAP & With a new ARM. YOU will have a good GENNY!--Always clean all to the eat off it stage!