Cycle Electric wiring diagram

[ES175]

I purchased a used 12V Harley gen, which I am rebuilding, for my pan project. It has a Cycle Electric electronic regulator on it. I need a wiring diagram. Can anyone direct me to their website or some location where I can get a diagram?

Thanks

[03Roadking]

Just found them this morning You might want to contact them and see what they would charge unless you have done these before http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Good luck

[ES175]

Thanks Roadking. They had everything I needed on their web site.

[03Roadking]

I have been looking for other manufactures of generators, voltage regulators and alternators for panheads but the only one I could find is Cycle Electric does anyone have the names and/or web site for others I want to find spec's not just places that sell them
Thanks

[rigidpanman]

electric franks,if they are still in business

[Cotten]

EFrank's has been defunct for more than a few years.
Only CE makes a unit designed for a battery within a hot oiltank. (To the best of my knowledge.)
Am I the only one who thinks endmount regulators are as ugly as a mother-in-law's ass?

[sleeper]

Cotten-

I agree about mother-in-laws ass. Butt Ugly
Same as the endmount regs.

'Billy'

[03Roadking]

Something I am curious about do we have to use the 5.5 amp battery because that is the only one that will fit the oil tank or is it because the system (gen, reg) can't handle anything more and would burn up ???
I'm Electric impaired

[Cotten]

I'm electronically-challenged, too.
I think it takes half as many amps to run a 12v system as it does a 6.
Generators burn up when over-worked, such as when the battery gets so old that it has lost its load capacity. That will happen even with the big ElectraGlide battery that is not in a hot oiltank.
Batteries burn up when over-charged and 'boiled' dry. Most solidstate regulators will maintain a range of battery sizes, but only CE's lowvoltage unit will 'gently' maintain a battery that is already hot.

Or something to that effect.

[kell]

Yeah, battery charging voltage varies with temperature. As temperature goes up, the suggested charging voltage goes down. So ideally you should use a lower voltage on a battery in a hot oil tank (like Cotten said).
Then the issue of charging current comes up. As Cotten says, a battery gone bad could load down the generator and cause it to overheat. Another reason to limit generator current: to keep from pumping too much juice into one of those little batteries (if you use one).
In general, I suspect most solid state regulators lack current limiting. My Accel doesn't have it. Easy enough to accomplish, though, by putting a resistor of a few ohms in the regulator's field connection, experimenting until you find a resistance that will limit the generator output somewhat, but still let it put out enough juice to run the bike with all the lights and stuff turned on.

[03Roadking]

I am trying to get my Electronic wizard involved, This is a guy that can walk into a room full of electronic equipment sniff the air and say "your run capacitors in box three and four are drawing to much current and over loading circuit boards 18 and 19" But he's so high tech when I start talking about my little 12 volt generator charging system he says "hell call gene at XYZ electronics have him find an alternator put it in and be done with it" I am gong to keep working on him to sit down and see if we can figure something out, I know this has been thought out many a time but I want to try anyway maybe something will come of it

[caschnd1]

There are bigger batteries that will fit very nicely in the old oil tanks. I'm running a 14amp YUASA sealed battery in my panhead. I run the CE generator with the low voltage regulator. Keeps the volts from getting too high when the battery is hot. But the 14amp battery is very nice. No flickering lights when I'm idling. I'm also not a big fan of the generator end-mount regulators, but this CE setup is the most reliable setup I've ever used. Can't beat reliability for my application. Now, if I was going for "correctness", I'd run a OEM gen and 6V setup. I have been experimenting with ways to make the CE end generator look more pleasing to the eye. When I come up with something I like, I'll post a picture. I posted a pic a while back of the 14amp battery next to the standard 5.5amp battery. The 14amp fits in the oil tank real nice with about 2 1/2" of spacer.

-Craig

[Cotten]

Caschnd1!
Using the standard generator and hiding a low-voltage solidstate regulator elsewhere (like under the motormount) is a step closer to a stock appearance.
Ultimately 45PartsDepot's conversion is the most convenient one that is most likely to fool purists, of course. And a better 'vanity' investment than chrome!

03Roadking!
Please remind your electronguru that vintage appearance is very important to many of us. A piece of a flying saucer hanging off of a 40-year-old farm implement stands out even to the casual observer. (Anachronism is a dirty word to me.

[03Roadking]

Cotten
Funny, you posted todays project I was moving my reg. to under the front motor mount Which brings me to my questions, the old mount I have was on the rear motor mount can I take that off and just put the bolts back or should there be a flat bar across the top of the motor to even out pressure from the bolts? and under that mount there are numbers stamped like a big 2 on one side of the case and another 2 on the other side do you know what that identifies? know it's a little off topic

[Cotten]

Geez I wish I could help, but I'm lost without looking at it in real life.
I'm pretty sure that there is no commercially available bracket or mount that wouldn't have to be butchered to fit anyway (specifically Accell's overpriced piece o' scrap).
So I fear that you are at the mercy of your own hacksaw.
The stamped numbers may be some inspection code, but I really haven't a clue.