4 speed box

[nan00k]

Been looking for answers on this problem elsewhere but thought i'd open it up to benefit from a wider knowledge base.

Got a four speed box where the kicker was slipping towards the bottom of the stroke, pulled the cover and the teeth on the starter mainshaft gear were well worn so gota replacement. The new W&W gear has 16 teeth where the old one had 14, I was assured this would not be an issue.

Anyhoos having replaced the cover the kicker locks up at about the 7o'clock position and will not return, I've done a dry run without the clutch release bearing because it's a bugger trying to line everything up, still locking up at 7 0'clock.

the 'ramp' on the back of the starter gear is looking a little notched, can't recallif it was like that when the cover was first removed; would it now be totally FUBRAR ?

Taken care to ensure the top of the starter gear is not tightened down more than 5/8 beyond gearbox face.>>
Any ideas?

ps can the starter clutch live without the little BB that locates to the inside of the clutch release bearing at the expense of accelerated wear or is that a total no no (guess it's not there just for idle fun)

[Robert Luland]

Your kicker bushings are or where shot at one time. That's what allows the clutch gear to ride up on the kicker gear cam plate. You can get a new cam plate from me or a couple of other shops on the net and rivet it on. From what I see that is an original kicker gear. If the teeth are ok. You don't want to chuck it. The aftermarket ones totally suck. Also make sure that you are not getting coil bind on the kicker gear clutch spring. If you put it flat on a table and press it down it should go completely flat. No coil should be on top of one another. Bob L

[nan00k]

thanks Bob
the bushing has been replaced with the starter gear, the problem was the teeth were worn. Would the kicker gear cam plate wear cause the problem as described and need replacing from what you can see?
I take on board what you say about the spring, this was replaced but i'll double check that the starter gear compresses this witout t binding and that it is seated. Is the min' 5/8 measurement from top of starter gear to outer face of gearbox to do with the spring compression?

[Robert Luland]

The bottom line is if you just grind of the high spots on each side, it will work fine. Keep in mine that the reason for the cam plate is to make sure your leg doesn't become part of the rotating mass. Bob

[RUBONE]

If the bushing is fitted too tight and does not retract when the ramp hits it damage will be done. The ramp disengages the gear at the top and bottom of its travel. A stuck or tight gear will not retract. When engaged properly the ramp is holding the starter gear back against the spring tension but all the parts are free, not bound up.

[nan00k]

thanks, the starter and bush are new and seemed to be an easy sliding fit. I'll go over again and check cam plate more thoroughly.