Tranny Oil

[jhughes556]

Couple of questions for you guru's about transmission oil. It would appear that the fluid in the tranny of my new-to-me 55, is some sort of heavy weight Hypoid gear oil. It stinks, its thick, and its light caramel in color. I know this is not recommended due to the bad things that can happened to copper components in the bearings. I'll be changing it to match the same 60wt as I'm using in the crankcase. Should I flush the transmission with a solvent (naptha) to get all the hypoid out or is removing and replacing with regular 60wt adequate? Also I've read that there isn't a dedicated drain on these transmissions. Surely this can't be right is it? There is a smaller bolt on the bottom of the tranny between the two rows of nuts used to adjust the primary chain but is this one bolt possibly a drain? I have Palmers book but find nothing in it about it being a drain. Also there is nothing in the original riders manual that shows a tranny drain.... I can use a mighty vac or a syringe to suck the oil out if necessary but if that is a drain this would make flushing much easier and more efficient. Thanks in advance.
J

[Bigincher]

Yes, it's the drain. It shows up in most all Spare Parts Catalogs.
If it was mine, I would drain it, flush it with kerosene, drain it, flush it, drain it, and fill it with same oil as motor- 50wt or 60wt.

[docmel]

I would certianly agree w/the flush and change as already mentioned. But if you are in a position where you really cant do that (tranny in the bike makes it a little difficult), Id run the tranny till its hot, drain, refill with your choice, and you would be good to go

[jhughes556]

Now that I know that bolt is a drain plug that makes it easier. I'll drain and flush with kerosene then fill with 60wt. Ride a few miles then drain and fill again. That should clear any of the old oil out sufficiently. Is there any reason for concern that the oil in there is light brown, almost caramel colored? Actually it looks like oil with water in it but it's not foamy.

[PanPal]

If its new to you, you never know what someone put in. I would flush and change it as suggested and see how the new oil looks after some riding. Don't sweat the color for now.

[65panhed]

I use 75w85 valvoline synthetic gear oil, is this a forbidden fluid?

[jhughes556]

Drained probably 1/2 ounce of water then came the caramel. Flushed with naphtha a couple of times. Will refill with 60wt and ride. Then change again, then again in a 100 miles. Maybe not necessary but oil is cheap.

[Bigincher]

Good plan, jhughes.
I guess you already know the water was the biggest culprit. I think you have it well in control now.

[58flh]

Anytime you see Carmel color /Thats water in the oil!--Be careful using hose or pressure washer on the Breather bolt in the lid!/That is most likely how it got in there!//As everyone replied Flush it with Regular oil or kero /Fill wirh st.60/Then just drop the oil & refill with Fresh 60 & your good to go!--The fill is a pint & a Half!.--If it leaks on the kickstand then the seal is fubared.Also it depends how much leaks out!--If olny like 4-5OZs.-Your good to keep rolling!.I usually fill mine with Ol-Lady holding her up straight & fill with st.60 until you see it in the kicker cover!--(Wait a minit & take another look/If you still see it & can fit a Pinkyfinger in there & cover your nail/Kepp on Riding All is fine!.--On the other hand if it does not leak Then fill to the Pint & a Half!.Which usually just ends up at the bottom of filler hole thread/maybe a 1/4-inch lower.---I read that guys are using 70/90-gear oil like for a Muncie or Borg-Warner auto 4-speed!--Im on the fence /reason is I always run in the mixer what I run in the motor!--It has been explained that the ROLLER-BERINGS Do not fair well in that thick Mollases!.What happens is instead of the roller-berings ROLLING///THEY GET PUSHED or SLID ALONG & that gents leads to premature wear!.However The Technologies in these new GOOD NAME BRAND OILS is nothing like it was 30yrs. ago!.You can run whatever you like/I have always ran Valvoline Racing VR1-ST.60 oil in both/& with excellent success.---Respectfully---Richie

[Dylan215]

Now that I know that bolt is a drain plug that makes it easier. I'll drain and flush with kerosene then fill with 60wt. Ride a few miles then drain and fill again. That should clear any of the old oil out sufficiently. Is there any reason for concern that the oil in there is light brown, almost caramel colored? Actually it looks like oil with water in it but it's not foamy.

Just got a 57 panhead and was wondering the same thing. Looks like I'll be doing the same. I didn't read anything about a drain plug until I found this article.

[jhughes556]

Now that I know that bolt is a drain plug that makes it easier. I'll drain and flush with kerosene then fill with 60wt. Ride a few miles then drain and fill again. That should clear any of the old oil out sufficiently. Is there any reason for concern that the oil in there is light brown, almost caramel colored? Actually it looks like oil with water in it but it's not foamy.

Just got a 57 panhead and was wondering the same thing. Looks like I'll be doing the same. I didn't read anything about a drain plug until I found this article.

Dylan, Good luck, I responded to your PM.
JH

[bangkokbob]

Engine oil for motors and gearbox oil for the box. They do completely different things.

I like Amsoil full synthetics eg. 60wt in motor and 90/140 shockproof in box. I live in a warm climate where even frost is a rare thing.

Regards, B.B.

[58flh]

Bangkokbob---I hear ya /Riding in heat that can blow a tire on asphalt is no joke!.Just remember Sportsters run the same oil in trans as Engine & they get poured in the same tank fill hole.-Makes you think??--However These new technologies that are being used on oils ARE NOTHING NEW!!!-(Its JUST CHEAPER to do today!)--Hey Can you guys just IMAGINE what they made to put a man on the MOON in 1969!!!!./This stuff has been around for ages!.Now they SLAP a Fancy Label on a bottle Add purple food coloring/& charge $7+ a QT.!I Am not saying ALL of it is junk/Because some of it is VERY GOOD!--I can vouch for 2-Products olny /& thats because I performed the tests MYSELF!.--Take--SLIK 50/--This is GOOD SHIT!--My test was the same one they showed on TV.I took a 10-inch by 10-inch by 1/8-steel plate & set it on a hollow square steel tube & Leveled EVERYTHING.I took my Valvoline st.60 & put a drop about the size of a 50-cent piece & then lit my tourch & heated the steelplate from un derneath about 5-inches away.SURE enuff the untreated valvoline ran from the hot spot!///After I let it cool I I used the slik-50 straight-up no mix///It RAN to the cherry red spot on the steelplate!///So I tried it mixed again with my Valvoline Racing st.-60///Sure enuff it went right to the hot spot!.So I know that SLIK-50 LIKES HEAT as well as EXTREME cold!--Afterall they lubed many actuaters shafts,etc.--on that lunar lander.The other one I found to be good is (LUCAS)-The oil treatment kind.It will not run from heat but actually quite the opposite!.But I found that when added to your oil it makes your oil VERY STICKY or Clingy may be a better term.What I did to test that is I took 3/4s of a coffee cup filled with regular oil/The rest I filled with Lucas Oil Treatment.I mixed the hell out of it --Then grabbed a clean Idler gear & hung it up/I did the same with another idler gear that was dipped in just regular oil.I let drip overnight--I checked it when I got to the shop & the Lucas treated oil LOOKED LIKE it had a thick FILM of oil on it!/& that was from 15-feet away.The other idler gear Had a film of oil on it ofcourse /BUT the LUCAS treated one Had more oil adhered to the gear.---just my findings---Respectfully---RICHIE