Sidecar Tug maintenance

[RooDog]

I have always run a non-compensator sprocket since 1967 on all my machines, 74, 90, and 100 inch motors with no issues. I do not understand why mine don't wear out rapidly. Any insight would be appreciated....

My building buddy, Spider, recently got rid of the compensators on his two hot rods, a 100" Twinki Softail, and his 100+ inch Twinkie Bagger, and reports easier starting because he has eliminate the slop resulting from the fact that when starting the lower run of the chain is pulling the comp in the opposite direction than when it is running and pulling the top run of the chain.
I feel compensators are unnecessary if you don't lug the engine, but also they consist of more moving parts to wear out and cause problems. If that were not true there would be no discussions about them, no?
...RooDog....

[panhead_kicker]

...
Not being an expert on riveting here but you flatten both ends only when imposing a continues force without the stud expanding and locking both parts with each other IMO
...

Well, I did use words like "think" and "may" ... Like I said its been a while and I have trouble remembering what I had for breakfast .
I searched my past posts and it looks like in 2009 I was asking about a pan drum and sprocket, but nothing about the riveting process , so I didn't document how I actually did it. Must have done a decent job though, its still the same sprocket. But, since I'm no expert either, and its been a good 10 years ago, the Service manual says to peen with hammer so that's probably what I'll do. I've found more often than not, striking out on my own doesn't yield as good results as when going "by the book". I'll just need to jig it up solid somehow; I don't own the factory tool for the job.

[Raytag]

I have always run a non-compensator sprocket ....

That post is regarding riding with a sidecar.
My understanding is unless it is 3" a belt is no option.
But I don`t believe that there is a compensator for a tapered sprocket shaft cause it will shear the key rightaway

[... and its been a good 10 years ago ...

10yrs ? Then I wouldn`t worry at all you`ve done a great job.
I screwed up the dust shield when riveting mine but I think you don`t have that.

That dust ring wasn`t round afterwards anymore and was scratching on the side cover. No, wasn`t scratching. It blocked the wheel.
I needed 3 times till it worked Feel pretty stupid about it cause everybody else seems to have a pretty good handle on it.
I love this setup one of the blokes posted in the KB. Some left over wood shelves material or mdf nailed together and worked perfectly
Phuk me The stupid AM brake drum is gold plated now

Ray

[panhead_kicker]

Here's some fun stuff tonight!
So the service schedule doesn't say anything about taking the clutch pack apart, but since I have noticed a wee bit of drag I figured while I was in the chain cover, I may as well look at the plates too. Fingers had gummy ruts in them, but cleaned up nice. 6 years worth = >5k miles, probably. I JUST got my Speedo fixed by J. Bordas in Oct 2020, (thanks John!) so I'll now be able to keep track of service stuff a little better.

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Then there's this failing buffer on one of the steel discs. The steel ball is about to work itself out of a productive job. I like most stuff stock, but now I see why many guys sealed up their primary instead of sending the oil and broken buffers back to the system...

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Here's what the buffer should look like. Note the steel ball is totally captured here.

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[panhead_kicker]

Die grinder zips the ends off these tiny rivets in a second or 2.

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Made a punch bed for both heads, and peened both new rivets at same time. Time to put clutch pack back together.

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[hydra74]

But I don`t believe that there is a compensator for a tapered sprocket shaft cause it will shear the key rightaway

Ray, there is a compensating sprocket for the tapered shaft it is in the accessory catalog '57

Hydra74

[Raytag]

Thanks

Good to know that there was something .... ok any search produced a "Nice try dude" as a result but it isn`t that important in the moment now.

Thanks again!
ray

[panhead_kicker]

Finally got around to setting up something to rivet my drum sprocket on. Heavy vise holding a 3/4" steel disc as a bed. The bed has a hole in it that I can drop a bolt down through the drum and fasten to the bed. This keeps the whole shebang steady when its hammer time.

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You've got to make sure the sprocket is seated snuggly against the drum. I didn't have any of the dowel pins to start things with, so I just used 4 10-24 screws about an inch long. I dropped those in, along with a few rivets spread out to make sure everything was aligned, then tightened the screws down. You've got to ensure the rivet head is backed up firmly.

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Use a flat head punch to peen the 3/16 rivets, says the service manual.

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Peen until the head stands 3/32's proud of the sprocket. This one needs a couple more hits. The rivets need to be peened straight down, but its easy to get one leaning. Take your time and evaluate each hammer blow, angle down slightly in the opposite direction on a rivet that starts to lean, in order to straighten it out.

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Done! Only missed the punch and hit my knuckles a couple times
No damage, I wasn't trying to peen each rivet with a single hammer swing.

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[panhead_kicker]

I've now got all my cables lubed , except for the throttle...and it's last because its the deepest and I've not been looking forward to dealing with it. So if anyone has any good tricks up their sleeve to lube this control coil while on the bike, I'd appreciate hearing about it!

Otherwise,..... I'll take off the dash housing, remove fuel cross over line, remove fuel vent line, remove left tank to be able to remove the frame cable clamp, take off the cable clamp at the manifold, take off the headstock cable clamp. Then remove the steering damper knob, remove the handlebar clamp cover, loosen the handlebar clamp. Then remove the turn signal switch and take out the control coil plug set screw. At that point I'll spin the right handle bar so the end is pointing up, remove the handlebar grip/spiral. Then I'll try to push/pull the control coil into view so that I can insert a needle (for a few seconds) that will deliver dri-slide moly cable lube that will be able to run down the entire length of the control coil........ then put it all back together I need another beer just thinking about it.

[RUBONE]

I have had good success pulling the inner out leaving the outer in place, disconnecting at the carb (straightening any kinks from the lever screw), removing the grip sleeve and rollers and pulling the inner spiral out of the bar with the wire connected. It helps considerably to make sure the wire is slightly rounded on the end, then work it slowly back in so as not to hook on the internal part of the coil. Been doing it like that on springer bars for decades.

[panhead_kicker]

I have had good success pulling the inner out leaving the outer in place, disconnecting at the carb (straightening any kinks from the lever screw), removing the grip sleeve and rollers and pulling the inner spiral out of the bar with the wire connected. It helps considerably to make sure the wire is slightly rounded on the end, then work it slowly back in so as not to hook on the internal part of the coil. Been doing it like that on springer bars for decades.

Yes, I've replaced just the inner before. Getting good access to one end of the control coil is key. From the top, a good thin lube will run down hill, but the carb end is by far the easiest access at this point.
Anyone used one of these ?
https://youtu.be/Pvg7uUw15zI

[panhead_kicker]

One other thing I'll be dealing with is tires. Currently, I have Dunlop 204's front and back. These are non-interchangable, and wear at different rates. So the rear tire has lived its tread life, (told my brother it was a Dunlop, he said looks like a Maypop ) the front has some life. Wondering if I'd be better off getting a new set that can be rotated, or if a "rear formulated" tire might actually be better for tug duty. Does anyone rotate tires anymore?

[jobo12]

One other thing I'll be dealing with is tires. Currently, I have Dunlop 204's front and back. These are non-interchangable, and wear at different rates. So the rear tire has lived its tread life, (told my brother it was a Dunlop, he said looks like a Maypop ) the front has some life. Wondering if I'd be better off getting a new set that can be rotated, or if a "rear formulated" tire might actually be better for tug duty. Does anyone rotate tires anymore?

Nope, no one rotates tires anymore. I havent rotated my shovelhead tires since the mid eighties. (although my '73 operators manual reccommends rotating every 2000 miles). All of the current crop of tire companies seem to only offer "front-runners" and rear tires and they are NOT interchangable. The rear tires all seem to use a softer compound, so I'll run through a couple of rears with the same front tire. The good news is I bought Dunlop "American Elites" this time--time will tell if they are worth the hype. But, I'm curious as to wheather a front tire or a rear tire would be better for the hack tire? Obviously, the softer compound for the side car wheel is not needed, but may be unnoticeable in the "third wheel" position. I am interested in how this works out, and what you end up with for a side-hack tire.
Good luck,
Joe

[RUBONE]

The best tires for a sidecar rig are actually automobile tires. Due to the fact a hack does not need sidewall grip, stiff sidewalls to control flex, soft compounds for grip, etc. Regretfully tires to fit MC rims just don't really exist. If you were to look at all the truly modern sidecar bikes they all have automotive wheels and tires on them.
Avon used to make sidecar specific tires but don't offer a 16" size any more. Neither does Heidenau. Your best options are heavy bike touring tires, not sport tires. And a rear type on the sidecar is fine.

[panhead_kicker]

... But, I'm curious as to wheather a front tire or a rear tire would be better for the hack tire? Obviously, the softer compound for the side car wheel is not needed, but may be unnoticeable in the "third wheel" position. I am interested in how this works out, and what you end up with for a side-hack tire.
Good luck,
Joe

Right now on the tub itself, I have been running a solid old Goodyear Speed grip, that looks nearly unworn. I don't see a need for a new one there anytime soon, unless a visible issue starts with that tire (sidewall checking , etc)

The best tires for a sidecar rig are actually automobile tires...

Yeah, I've read a bit on Sidecar.com and it's mostly modern stuff. Those guys talk car tires a lot. Based on that, I am beginning to lean towards the Shinko 240 classic. That style tire is more car-like than most new motorcycle street tires. Price of course is nice, compared to a new Dunlop 402s I can almost get two for one. And the Shinko can be rotated, there is no specific front/rear designation.