Rebuild engine from boxes

Requesting advice

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RooDog
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#106

Post by RooDog »

ExCal....
Your 11" shocks look to be well designed aftermarket pieces.
I say well designed because with them being shorter than OEM they need to have stiffer springs to lessen the tendency to bottom out due to the lesser travel compared to the 12" shocks. Yours look to have stiffer springs, in deed. Of course I may be wrong going by sight alone, but other than lowering a '73-'84 Big Twin, there is not any Harley these are suitable for.....
I have seen lowering shocks that had been welded shut and reassembled to give both the look of having shocks, but being rigid, there is nolonger any chance of bottoming out. Then, even Sportster shock would work.
BTW: Do not try to use Sporty, nor FXR shocks as the spring rates are too soft for the cantilevered design of the BT swingarm.
....RooDog....


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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#107

Post by Excalibur »

Thanks. Makes sense the Sporty and FXR shocks are unsuitable. I really want something with modern dampening. I recall my Shovel of old being crazy hard in the springs. They didn't move much.

Found one fork cap stud had been stretched. Same guy again :roll: Hoping Harley Dave has one in stock. Otherwise it's import or make it. Was thinking of using chromoly. Fairly important fastener considering what it holds.
th.jpg
Rockers measured between .013" and .022" endplay. Made a set of rocker spacers with the required endplay built in. They are counter-bored to achieve .004" -.005". Will harden them first.
tt.jpg
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nifty
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#108

Post by nifty »

re stretched stud
Looks like it will be 5/16" UNC both ends?

Try automotive parts houses, engine & tranny re-builders, tractor repairers (Caterpillar would almost certainly have one but finding a helpful parts guy may be a problem), old school auto wrecking yards, look at fuel pump and manifold studs etc. Some will have UNF nut threads , buy 2 and a pair of nuts.

Proper studs are best because the good ones have slightly oversize thread into fork leg or engine block so stud is a no-play fit, nut end has normal clearance for normal nuts.

If desperate, there is "high Tensile" all-thread/booker bar available through engineering supply places, sold here as "Sampson Rod" its around grade 5 bolt equivalent . Not preferred but better than stretched.

Nifty
RUBONE
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#109

Post by RUBONE »

nifty wrote: Tue Sep 14, 2021 1:03 am re stretched stud
Looks like it will be 5/16" UNC both ends?

Try automotive parts houses, engine & tranny re-builders, tractor repairers (Caterpillar would almost certainly have one but finding a helpful parts guy may be a problem), old school auto wrecking yards, look at fuel pump and manifold studs etc. Some will have UNF nut threads , buy 2 and a pair of nuts.

Proper studs are best because the good ones have slightly oversize thread into fork leg or engine block so stud is a no-play fit, nut end has normal clearance for normal nuts.

If desperate, there is "high Tensile" all-thread/booker bar available through engineering supply places, sold here as "Sampson Rod" its around grade 5 bolt equivalent . Not preferred but better than stretched.

Nifty
If that is a Showa front end the stud is metric.
nifty
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#110

Post by nifty »

RUBONE wrote: Tue Sep 14, 2021 1:35 am

Nifty
If that is a Showa front end the stud is metric.
[/quote]

Not necessarily, even some twinkie Touring legs still have some UNC threads and some metric all on the same leg, just for fun.
Nifty
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#111

Post by Excalibur »

Great thoughts, thanks.

Nifty,
Yes it's 5/16" UNC both ends.
Nice idea to find suitable replacement stud. Am in a good position to find such things and in addition I probably have some... somewhere.
If one thread wasn't oversize, Loctite could mimic that. I pulled the stretched stud out today. It unscrewed very firmly whereas the other stud came out when I unscrewed the nut. I think it probably means one stud was fitted backwards (loose in the leg and tight in the nut).

Robbie
The Showa thought got me thinking so I studied the topic and note the following.
Studs are 5/16" UNC both ends.
'71-'84 FX parts catalog lists "45998-73, 5/16"-18 both ends"., for models including FXWG.
My leg threads are 5/16" unc including fender mounts holes.
Drain plugs are 8mm x 1.25, 12mm heads.
They are not marked Showa under the fender mount.
Bottom tree is marked Lifeline.
It would be great to know model/year etc of any of the pieces. It'd help a lot with sourcing parts and solving issues.
fff.jpg
Saw these today at Harley Daves, should have measured but they looked shorter. Mine are 2"
hh.jpg
Bike has had a beating but it will live again with a bit of love...
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RooDog
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#112

Post by RooDog »

"Lifeline" is an aftermarket supplier, often sold by Tedd's V-Twin, but they are good reproductions and are interchangeable with OEM pieces. I have two of their wide 41mm forks with no issues.....

Try this:
Colony # 8826-6
OEM, H-D # 45998-73


....RooDog....
nifty
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#113

Post by nifty »

Exc,
Those studs in your pic show part number for hydraglide fork axle clamp 49-77, might be a bit short on account early clamp is steel, and ally clamp probably beefier, but worth measuring.
Probable that the whole front end is repop.
Nifty
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#114

Post by RooDog »

Look at the back side of the fender mounts. Maker's name is often there....
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#115

Post by Excalibur »

Comparison: My Panhead axle clamp is steel so it will have the '49 - 77 studs. Fitted height with axle works out about the same because the Pan has next to no gap between clamp and leg whereas Shovel has about 2.5mm (0.1"). Alloy clamp is thinner. Hoping to see Harley Daves studs again, perhaps tomorrow to size them up. They must be close to being OK... :shock:

Re repop whole front end.? That could explain why there's no makers mark.

A few more steps today..
Hardening rocker spacers. Sorry this pics won't post right way up. Admin, can you fix please? I tried rotating it before upload but even that didn't work.
ww.jpg
Lower legs got a polish.
a3.jpg
Back axle thread turned out to be bad..
aa.jpg
Prepping the bottom tree for repair where fork stops have been cut off. Had previously been chromed.
aaa.jpg
ReZinc'd bolts and washers.
aaaa.jpg
Hope this is interesting.
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Last edited by panhead on Wed Sep 15, 2021 1:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: picture rotated
nmaineron
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#116

Post by nmaineron »

How effective is the Brownells surface hardener? Would it be good for prick punch ends and such?
Excalibur
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#117

Post by Excalibur »

nmaineron wrote: Wed Sep 15, 2021 2:30 pm How effective is the Brownells surface hardener? Would it be good for prick punch ends and such?
I find Brownells a very effective surface hardener. Items can be made from mild steel and surface hardened easily.

As for prick punch ends and the like, according to Brownells : "Helps keep the edge sharp on expensive drill bits, milling and grinding tools, punches, firing pins, hammer davits, trigger pins, sears, and cocking pieces."
Not that I've tried it on tools...

So, I ordered genuine Harley studs from the Harley dealer. Very reasonable price. Be a week getting here from Aussie.

My rear axle is worse than I thought. The head end has a crack.
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#118

Post by George Greer »

I might have a rear axle in my spare box of parts….

Post a picture of your cracked one, and I will see and compare it to what I have.

If it’s a match, you can have it.

Just need your mailing address

George
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#119

Post by Excalibur »

Here's the axle. I believe it's repop. It's very beaten up. It's had more hits than The Beatles.
Length (not including head) 300mm 11.75"
ax.jpg
ax1.jpg
Can't take anything for granted with this bike. For example the axle had numerous washers as spacers on the right side. Clearly as I fit the parts, I need check alignments, spacing, dimensions, etc.
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Re: Rebuild engine from boxes

#120

Post by George Greer »

The one that I have is:

11 3/8 measured like the picture you posted,

And it is 12 inches over all length

Trying to get a picture shortly

George
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