Trouble starting 64 flh

[panhead_kicker]

I've got my 64 back together after a year or so and am trying to run. The motor now sits in correct drop arm frame. It ran well before the transplant. The main difference now is the fuel system. I now have a stock fuel system ; previously I ran shovel tanks, rubber lines to an S&S super E.
I am still running the same single point manual advance timer as last year... one thing at a time....
stockish 2-1 exhaust.
Heres what I've done:
Set float spacing on M74B per manual.
Pressure tested manifold.
Set low speed to five clicks per manual.
Closed off hs needle.
Set point gap .020 per manual. Still good from last year.
Static timed per manual, still very close from last year.
No air filter attached.

After a few kicks with the choke fully engaged, it will start and fast idle for maybe 7-8 seconds, and then die as if running out of gas. I can advance the timer during this time, runs faster ok.
If I take the choke off during this short run time, it will usually die.
I've never run this M74B before.
Anyone have any suggestions on what have I missed?

[john HD]

is the washer on the low speed needle present?

you did not forget the spring on the main jet did you?

john

[panhead_kicker]

is the washer on the low speed needle present?

you did not forget the spring on the main jet did you?

john

Hi John,
The correct washer on the LS needle is present. The Main jet spring is in place. I can see the jet nozzle nice and perky in the venturi. Do the 5 jet holes in the nozzle need to be oriented in any particular direction when inserted? I havent seen anything in the service manual that address this, so I didn't worry about how they went in.

[Bigincher]

...................... Do the 5 jet holes in the nozzle need to be oriented in any particular direction when inserted? I havent seen anything in the service manual that address this, so I didn't worry about how they went in.

I have never seen any literature that specifically indicates a direction that the bleed holes in the nozzle should face. There is a generic cross-sectional diagram in The Linkert Book which seems to show them facing the intake manifold, so that's the way I always install the nozzle. I'm pretty sure it really doesn't matter, though.......

[steve_wood]

Hmmm... could it be that without the air filter it is running lean? Just for giggles, put it back on and give it a try.

[panhead_kicker]

Hmmm... could it be that without the air filter it is running lean? Just for giggles, put it back on and give it a try.

Yeah Steve, I wondered how much affect that might have on the Idle circuit. Like you said, I think I'll go try it for grins.
I just got done re-reading Palmer's section on Linkert operation on rebuilds. I didn't quite follow where the gas and air come from for the idle circuit. Time to look through the service manual again. First ill go bolt on the cleaner for a few kicks.
Back in a bit...

[59Panman]

panhead_kicker,

After I had Cotten rebuild my Linkert, the nozzle fell out when I had the bowl off. I contacted Cotten and he said that it didn't make a difference on the Linkert. See response below from Cotten on Nozzle orientation on another subject.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 3:40 am
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2004 5:42 am
Posts: 1860
Location: Central Illinois
RE: Locking the float screw
Today's fuels are getting more and more digestive, limiting the kinds of sealers or 'dopes' that can be used. J-B Weld (used sparingly) or an isocyanate urethane paint will still work in the worst Midwestern P4gas.
One of my associates managed to soft solder his, but beware of added weight!
I have commissioned screw and pivotnut sets where the screw will extend through the pivotnut far enough for the exposed threads can then be clipped or "upset" to prevent the screw from backing out, but intend this as a last resort for when the fuels get worse....if that's possible!

Re: Nozzle orientation
Only the Indian Model 741 literature cites anything about orientation, and they have a slot in the venturi to aim at.

If perhaps you felt that there might be an advantage, the slot would have to be aimed at the vent hole on the side of the body for most HD carbs.
(Note that most late units such as the M74B have no slot, but are completely turned around their midsections to provide the most volume possible for an 'accellerator pump' effect.)

I have encountered bologna-cut spigots on nozzles that were then indexed with a set screw....but who knows if it was worth it!

And back to venturies...
It would be ideal to have each venturi a light press-fit to seal absolutely all air from passing around it, and to prevent rattle wear upon the spigot. (A loose fit of the spigot into the venturi can hinder the 'accellerator pump' effect.)
However nearly all potmetal venturis have shrank over the years.
I regularly swage them back out and cut for a precise press,...but they shrink back to loose in about a year!

There are aluminum venturies available from at least two sources (USA and Left-Coast USA) that were made pre-shrunk. (Duh.)

Since aluminum doesn't swage nicely, our hopes for quality venturies would be 45PartsDepot (I haven't tried one yet), or private commissions to have them done right..

....Cotten

[panhead_kicker]

Well, I took the M74B back off after seeing what difference the air cleaner made, (none that I could tell at this point.)
I looked over the diagrams in the service manual to identify all the passages. I flushed from hole to hole plugging them along the way to make sure I had open passage between plugs. I made sure the little idle slot in the bore behind the large plug on the right side was clean and open. Checked float level again. This has got me really befuddled!
It appears when the bowl is assembled, the only way for gas to enter the passages is through the fixed jet. Am I right here?
I was able to run a 1/16 inch drill through the hole in this jet to make sure it was not plugged. I used my fingers and didnt remove any material. The jet is not marked so I dont know if it is correct for this carb.
I also question whether the main nozzle I am using is correct, although even if it were not, I dont see how it could cause my current trouble.
I'll probably re-assemble and try again tomorrow.

[59Panman]

panhead_kicker

Your quote, "It ran well before the transplant. The main difference now is the fuel system. I now have a stock fuel system ; previously I ran shovel tanks, rubber lines to an S&S super E. mentioned you have a stock fuel system now."

Sounds like your problem is somewhere with this new setup?

[panhead_kicker]

Sounds like your problem is somewhere with this new setup?

Well, it idles at full choke for 8-10 secs max, then dies like it runs out of gas. I am pretty sure the float is set right to do its thing correctly, 1/4inch from the lip to the top of float, but....
I'll turn the gas on at the tank and make sure I get a good stream out of the fuel filter to eliminate that part all the way to the carb. Heck, even if I was getting poor flow into the bowl, wouldn't a full bowl last for more than 10secs at idle? And why only run at full choke?
Steve Wood, I found a thread in here where you described a similiar problem, yours only idled at full choke, but at least it didn't die after 10 secs. Are you still having those problems?

[59Panman]

I don't think I posted that problem?

[steve_wood]

ozwick:

That problem was caused by cracked heads. Fixed it. But it cost over $2500

[panhead_kicker]

ozwick:

That problem was caused by cracked heads. Fixed it. But it cost over $2500

Sorry to hear that Steve! I am getting off luckier than that. I checked the gas flow out the filter, and found it not sufficient. So, now I know that in order to activate the RESERVE portion of the gas in these tanks AND get good flow, you must pull up the rod AT LEAST a full inch... well I'll chalk that kick-fest up to good exercise for the week!

By the way, does anyone have a Duo-Glide Operation manual that could be scanned and put into the Documentation section of the board? ( no, really!)