hard starting 65 fl

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Re: hard starting 65 fl

#46

Post by john HD »

Electrics confuse me. Can we think of any other causes for arcing?
low voltage can cause trouble. the motor is a fixed value in watts. to make watts you need volts multiplied by amps.

if you lower the voltage you must raise the amps to get the same watts (horsepower). add a poor connection and you get heat. heat destroys connections.

if you have a 1000 watt motor and run it at 10 volts you need 100 amps. run the same motor at 5 volts you need 200 amps.

john
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Re: hard starting 65 fl

#47

Post by 65eglide »

battery is new also, I always keep it on a bettery tender, checked it with a hydometer and all cells were in the high reading right at the top.
keep in mind the low voltage reading I was getting was before I took the solenoid off, so the burnt disk would probably account for the reading.
I'm going to replace the battery cables along with the solenoid (even though the cable were also new)I did also notice when I tested it with the suggested battey cables, I went to check the solenoid terminals after trying to start, the post that runs to the positive side of the battery was really hot and I could hold on to it for no more than a few seconds without getting burnt, but again that was before I removed it and saw the burnt disk, relay is already installed so I'll try again
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Re: hard starting 65 fl

#48

Post by Bosheff »

Are ya runnin a stock H-D -65 solenoid or an aftermarket piece. Use genuine H-D if possible. Most aftermarket electrical components are not worth the energy it takes to install em....bosheff
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Re: hard starting 65 fl

#49

Post by 65eglide »

Well finally problem solved.. :mrgreen: .
replaced solenoid, replaced battey cables with heavier gauge ones, installed starter relay, installed 15 amp fuse, and soldered all connections.
now she turns over like I though it should.

thanks for everyones help.... :P
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Re: hard starting 65 fl

#50

Post by Bosheff »

There's no fuse in the starter circuit as I remember, but I could be mistaken....bosheff
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Re: hard starting 65 fl

#51

Post by 65eglide »

there's no fuses at all on the 65, just decided to run one to the starter circuit to be safe
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Re: hard starting 65 fl

#52

Post by fourthgear »

65eglide wrote:Well finally problem solved.. :mrgreen: .
replaced solenoid, replaced battey cables with heavier gauge ones, installed starter relay, installed 15 amp fuse, and soldered all connections.
now she turns over like I though it should.

thanks for everyones help.... :P
Glad you got her figured out .
. Not sure if you want one on the batt. leads to the starter ,if that's where you have it. I prefer a circuit breaker to fuses, One right off the positive batt. post to the ign. switch ,a 30 amp(main 12 volt for system ),one less thing you have to carry as a spare.
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Re: hard starting 65 fl

#53

Post by Bosheff »

It would seem to me if you were gonna fuse the starter circuit, you'd need more than a 15 amp fuse/breaker....bosheff
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Re: hard starting 65 fl

#54

Post by 58flh »

I know this thread is old!--I just would like to add that every Flh from 65 to 69 with a starting issue was this---Owner using wrong size wire is #1--#2 was letting the bendix gear run dry on its shaft!-(this is from washing the bike & also you dont need a pressure waser to enter delicate parts ,A simple garden hose will do it!. The gear & shaft must be greased every year!-(use spray grease & you dont need to tear nothing apart!.-#3 was BAD GROUNDS!!!!,& Funny this was usually the culprit/along with wrong size cables!-(Always run more then 1-ground on anything!.).#4--Spent Batteries!--They may show 12.9-Volts/When loadtested there useless!.--Also on adding a starter relay!--I use FORD Starter Switch,On Bikes & Cars-(any car)!.--There easily hid in a toolbox or under the seat!--They are 12-V & Last forever on a bike!.As far as running fuses--I prefer a Timed-Breaker/30AMP is plenty.---Hope this helps someone -Respectfuly---RICHIE----PS-(Ford Starter Switch cost $17 at Auto-Zone for a Duralast one!.
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