Wont start, please help

[49flpan]

guys

rebuilt modified and sent big $ which cant afford on me 49pl chopper she starts first time first kick but when she is hot she wont start replaced coil adjusted float still wont start when hot..... olease guys any suggestion that you might have email wwoo6879@bigpond.net.au or post here PLEASE HELP

[kell]

A couple of things come to mind. How long have you had this bike? Maybe it is something simple like you are using the choke (or richener) and you shouldn't. What kind of carb do you have and what procedure have you been using on hot starts?
I also anticipate the you will hear from someone on this board that you should check for an intake leak. When your bike is hot the leak could get worse enough to make it hard starting. So here is the link http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html

[sleeper]

Possible Vapor lock ??
Is your fuel line away from the jugs & hot stuff ??

[fourthgear]

How about Timing , lifter adj. ,seems like you'll have to do a routine check on everything just so ya know where ya are and where you are not , sorry but ya gotta know for sure and not just draw straws.

[Interested]

Does the engine have a good frame ground connection?

[King]

Sounds like a typical Pan to me. As the others noted, the best cure is to get a good manual and to completely go through the tuning drill. First take a hard look at your wiring for grounding, clean terminals, and proper routing. Next be sure batterey is well charcged. Then:

1. With carb off, do the manifold leak test as described at the site Kell provided. This is absolutely critical. If the manifold is leaking all the tuning in the world is for naught.
2. Set points @ 0.022
3. Static time as per manual.
4. Release pushrod covers and check valve adjustment. Having a 49 could mean you still have the old "oil can" hydraulic lifters and they are failing. I switched my 51 to solids last year and it appears to have helped.
5. Reassemble and do a dynamic timing.
6. Check fuel line routing. AS Bill said, metal lines too near the jugs=vapor lock same goes for horizontal gas filters. Rubber fuel lines are best.
7. Check venting of gas tanks. Right tank should have a vented cap or if only one tank it has to be vented too.
8. With bike warmed up, adjust both idle and high speed jetting. I found I was too lean and curing that helped a lot.

Also, the further away your motor is from stock (carb, cams, etc.) the greater the number of variables that enter the equation. As Cotton has noted, the "unmolested barn rat" generally starts the easiest. Oh, and no matter what you do, if there are a couple of good looking young ladies watching you, it will NEVER start. I think the dirty old things just like to sit there drooling oil and perv at them.

Good luck and good rides.

King

[PanPal]

Is it the steel lines that vapor lock?

[sleeper]

PanPal-
Steel will "vapor-lock" quicker than rubber [insulating]
But if your steel lines are away from heat AMAP. You should be all-right.
If you are experiencing symptoms, Split an old rubber line down the length, & slip it over the steel line & Test.
Cost=old rubber line & a bit of time.
Results=if this "pinpoints" your problem, Priceless..

[PanPal]

I have not had problems YET. I have the stock set up and the steel pipe spirals down around my front cylinder, all downhill. I have about 1/2" clearance to the fins the whole way down. Hmm in prior posts, I thought the problem was with rubber hose and an inline filter, Not the stock setup. Always learning Thanks