Kickstart trying to hurt me

[65 Eric]

Hey Folks! been putting together a 65 with a 3" open belt (no starter) and finally got to try and start it this last week-end. On the third kick it started to run but before I could get my foot off the kicker it "caught" and threw my leg back, almost kneed myself in the face! I tried a couple more times with the same result. Every time it does this the motor stalls, so it hasn't ran for more than a couple of seconds at a time. I'm sure someone here has had a similar problem and I would sure appreciate any help before I seriously hurt myself!
I tried the "search" function on this site but didn't come up with anything, probably the operator.....

Eric

[caschnd1]

Eric,

It sounds like you aren't kicking all the way to the bottom of the stroke or that you are letting up too soon. When you kick all the way to the bottom, the rachet releases and the kicker cannot kick back on you. If it's not releasing at the bottom of the kick stroke, you need to find out why.

-Craig

[65 Eric]

Post by 65 Eric on Oct 16, 2006, 4:48pm

Thx Craig, this is my first Panhead and kickstart other than my first bike 30yrs. ago, a 1950 Triumph that I could start very easily. The fact I was 30yrs. younger might have helped too!
I'll try what you suggest but I could swear I'm going all the way to the bottom, could the starter clutch be "hanging up"?

Eric

[PanPal]

It sounds like a timing issue. When it kicks back it may be trying to run the opposite direction. I'm am not familiar with the 65, but I assume it does not have a manual retard for the circuit breaker.

[65 Eric]

Thx PanPal, it does have an auto advance (weights with springs) but I can turn the circuit breaker by hand if I leave it a little loose. Looking down at the top of it would I turn it clockwise or counter clockwise to retard it? thanks for all your help,

Eric

[caschnd1]

Eric,

Clockwise to retard. With an auto-advance system, you don't want to leave your circuit breaker loose enough to turn it. Once you have set the timing, tighten it down. Also, checkout the auto-advance mechanism and make sure it's not hanging up in the advanced position.

-Craig

[65 Eric]

Thx Craig, I'm living proof that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. I actually turned it the other way thinking I was retarding it. I'll give it a shot when I get home tonight, I've been working on this almost every week-end for about nine months now and it was sure exciting when it actually ran (made a couple of revolutions) for a few seconds!

Eric

[Panacea]

eric, do you know how to set the timing with your auto advance breaker system? MW

[caschnd1]

Hang in there Eric. When I put my last panhead together I forgot to setup the electronic ignition for mounting in a circuit breaker instead of the factory default of mounting it in a late model cone motor. The rotor turns opposite directions on circuit breaker vs. cone motors. I kicked, and kicked, and kicked until I sweat off 20# (May in Arizona isn't the time to kick a panhead 100 times). Finally I pulled the ignition module and rechecked the pins on the rotor. I had the saturation pin in the wrong spot ::) Took 15 minutes to correct that problem and retime the motor. Key on and she started on the first kick Live and learn. LOL

-Craig

[fourthgear]

eric
It sounds like you are adv. and ret. the timing to start like a manual adv. distributor and you have an auto adv. dist.(circuit breaker ). As has been said you need to set your timing and lock it down. Do you have a Tec. manual for your Pan?

[56panman]

Eric,
As Craig pointed out be sure to kick to the bottom of stoke. I just wanted to add that once you kick to the bottom and engine starts don't be in a hurry to release the kicker until engine is running at full idle. Good Luck -Steve

[65 Eric]

Thanks all, I do have a manual (Clymers) and I'm going to go back and set my timing with a test light,(have to buy one, mine burned out just when I needed it!) and check again for intake leaks with the tester I made (thx Cotten). I also think I installed the circuit breaker with the timing mark on the flywheel in the center of the hole, I need to read my manual again because I'm hearing the timing mark should just be entering the viewing hole when the circuit breaker is installed. I'm running a CV carb with STD heads & shovel intake manifold with adaptor, I changed the jets per info I got here so the carb should be good to go. I'll be outta town for the next ten days so I'll give it another shot when I get back. I'll keep you'all posted and thanks again for all the info,

Eric

[fourthgear]

Eric
If you mean a test light that just tests to see if points are opening (lights up when ign. is on , when points open ) the timing line should be in the middle of the hole . You have to manually advance the advancing mechanism to get your light to just light up by turning the dist. (circuit breaker ) with the adv. mechanism fully advanced until it does so and lock it down and when you have it there you can test it by just advancing the advance mechanism to see if the light just starts to come on with it fully advanced. I use a 12volt test light you can get at a auto parts store , it looks like a screw driver but has a point and test lead and they are cheap.
Now if you are using a timing light ( strobe light ) get her running @ 2000rpms point the timing light at the timing hole and adj. distributor forward or back until the line is in the middle of the timing hole and lock the dist. down when its there .

[65 Eric]

Thx Fourthgear! I actually did read it right (my manual) and the test light you're talking about (the cheap one) is the one I burned out. I have a timing light I'll use once I get'er running, thx again for the info.

Eric