Starting frustrations

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6hds
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Starting frustrations

#1

Post by 6hds »

Now that my restoration is done I'm trying to get this starting problem solved. Here's the issue. 60 Dou-glide, Rebuilt stock everything except its 12v. Lots of kicking to usually get it started hot or cold. Once it starts, it runs beautiful. Warm it up and shut it off, wait 10 seconds, It might start one kick. It'll do this 20 times. On 21 It'll spit back and you can kick it into next week. Wait a half hour and it might start in 2 to 10 kicks. I've tried all the combinations of throttle, choke and spark. During a fit it always has good voltage (12.5) Points at .020. Nice blue spark always. timed it with a light when its running and its perfect. I've bubble tested it numerous times. One thing that is odd is during a fit I've tried to kick it with full choke, throttle closed, and ignition off 10 times and the plugs will be dry, black, but dry. I expected to see flooded plugs. Think thats a clue. The Linkert is in good shape and has a black foam looking float set at 1/4 inch. Also float lever has a lot of slop in it too, meaning you can move it back and forth in the bowl and It'll contact both sides. This might be a clue also. Could the float and lever be the problem? Are Cotton's floats I've read a lot about still available? Thank again for all the help during this restoration. Gary
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Re: Starting frustrations

#2

Post by Gotnoclass »

Definitely sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Full throttle with the choke closed should definitely wet the plugs. Are you tanks vented? Fuel shutoff valve not opening properly? Are the holes of the sprayer tube in the linkert facing the manifold? Make sure the carb is fastened with no more than 8ft lb to the manifold. Any more will warp it. Also make sure the float bowl nut is fasten tight so no un-necessary air is drawn in.
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Re: Starting frustrations

#3

Post by 59Panman »

If the float hangs up, it cause the needle valve to shut off the gas flow. You need to pull the float bowl and inspect / adjust the float tang. Don't bend the tang connected to the float as you could damage the float. Here is a link to a YOUtube video by Mr. Big, that may assist you.

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6hds
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Re: Starting frustrations

#4

Post by 6hds »

Thanks for the response. To answer the advice, I've had the carb off a dozen times to see if I missed something in the rebuild. Both tanks have vented caps and the fuel shut off is working properly as when I set up the needle/lever too tight one time, fuel ran out the overflow soaking an old bath towl before I could twist the valve to off. I've read here on this site that the orientation of the tubes holes doesn't matter on this carb. (M-74b) The carb to manifold surfaces are flat and I'm confident Its sealing. Any thoughts in the float lever/ pivot pin slop I've described? I'm thinking the off-set of the float to the left they describe in the shop manual that is necessary means the fit is not sloppy like mine. the float can hit the sides of the bowl easily. In all my reading here I've never ran across this being addressed. Thanks again
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Re: Starting frustrations

#5

Post by RUBONE »

The float lever fingers are critical to good float operation. They need to be snug enough to the shutoff to allow free movement but NOT side to side slop. The fit to the pivot pin should be free but not loose and sloppy either. The curve of the fingers should also be consistent and of a proper radius to allow free travel of the shutoff valve with no catches.
The spit back also can be caused by intake air leaks. Be sure to check around the pan screws close to the intakes as they have been known to leak into the intake tract due to porous castings.
Also check the proximity of your fuel line to the head fins. If the line gets hot while running it can cause vapor lock upon shutoff.
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Re: Starting frustrations

#6

Post by 58flh »

6hds---It sounds like you got a good handle on your problem.If BUBBLE-TESTED & no LEAKS---You pretty much answered your question!--The FLOAT is spent.COTTONS Floats are The Best you can get that are out there!--Alot of Guys Here can Back that up because They are running them!----Sounds like your pretty much ready to go once you fix it.---Good-Luck/Respectfully----Richie
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Re: Starting frustrations

#7

Post by Tattoo »

It does have dual points right?
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Re: Starting frustrations

#8

Post by 6hds »

Thanks for the interest. I think I'm on the way to solving this problem. I'll answer the comments as best I can. The timer has single points. Dual points started in 61 to 64 I believe. I'm coming to the conclusion the float /lever/lever pin is junk. You can bump the float to both sides of the bowl with slop to spare. The 3 fingers had many marks on them and I tried to smooth and bend them to look like the pic in the shop manual. The fuel line is about 1/4 to 3/8 away from the head fins. I'm guessing the line is in the stock configuration.
I've bubble tested (15psi) at least 3 times during this ordeal and probably squirted a gallon + of soapy water all over the manifold area and rocker cover screws. I'm getting good enough at it I can find the spot with both intake valves closed in my sleep. I e-mailed Liberty this morning and already got a response from Cotton about the parts. Thanks to everyone and their suggestions. I want to get this to start like its supposed to. Reminds me of my just out of high school years when my riding buddys walking out of Mickey D's would bet cigarettes on whose bike would start in 1 kick.
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Re: Starting frustrations

#9

Post by Tattoo »

LOL You can put dual points on any year. It was just a question to help you out.... It sounded like you were dealing with dual points to me..... But I guess I read it wrong.

Good luck fixing your problem......
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Re: Starting frustrations

#10

Post by 6hds »

About that points answer, If I offended you by it, I'm sorry. Gary
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