Looking for good machine shop for UL cylinders

[Frankenstein]

So, had a conversation with Bruce Argetsinger on the phone yesterday in the quest for jugs. He still has an aluminum set, and the price is indeed $5k. Includes pistons fitted, valves, guides, ready to go.
Also, he's considering making a run of Cast Iron cylinders. These would be from the same molds as used on the aluminum ones. These molds came from S&S when Bruce bought out their flathead fixtures some years ago. the cylinder molds came originally from Anders U.S. operation, went to S&S who apparently did some slight rework on them, to Bruce who has apparently also made some slight improvements.
He asked me to "spread the word" and see if there would be interest in these cylinders if he did make a production run. The pricing would be $3K, bare castings, you provide guides, pistons, and final fitting of said items.
Maybe a little pricey, but would be of excellent quality. I could only guess at the timeline, but, if there were strong interest, maybe 3-6 months to market?
Let me know here or PM so Bruce can gauge interest in this project.
DD

[1950Panhead]

When you need parts you look for parts.
When you don't need parts you don't look for parts.
You have to make parts to sell them.
Saying I may make parts would only work when there are no parts and buyers are desperate.

[omar1951]

Stilbo,
The correct order is as 1950panhead stated, guide into cylinder, gasket, upper cover pressed against flange on guide and held in place by valve spring. Yours had been reassembled incorrectly. Indian did it the way yours was done, I believe. Also, Knuckleheads use the guide to hold the lower tin in place.
Depending on the type of valve spring cover you have, early threaded or later spring tensioned with clips your chances of getting a good seal will vary. The older screw types can be made to seal quite well. Not so much the later style.
I'm currently using a system incorporating Viton "O" rings at the juncture of the upper cover spring spacer and some other stuff to seal that assembly on early style covers. I tried Buna "O" rings but they couldn't take the heat.
One problem with the stock system is that the tension on the gasket cover against the guide collar varies with the valves opening and closing and I suspect that there may be resonances at play where the spring puts no tension on the joint, which could let oil pass.
Just my observations,
DD

You are right regarding spring tension against the cover. What I ended up doing was coating the gasket with Permatex #1, installing the cover and the remaining parts, and letting it sit up for a couple days. It's now dry as toast around all the valve covers on my '38.

[PanPal]

What is the OD of a standard UL guide? I need to purchase new guides but would like to remove what is in there now and measure them. Then buy what my buddy doesn't have in stock, so I have a better chance of getting the valve job done in one trip to his house.

[kitabel]

.595"

[PanPal]

Thanks. Just in time. Making a guide punch now.

[flat38]

As Kitabel stated, the standard OD is .595", however, oversizes are available and the old guides need to be measured before ordering new. The cylinders should be heated to 250F to remove guides or cylinder damage may occur.

[PanPal]

I planned to heat the area around the guides with a propane torch prior to using the punch I made. Just before leaving for work this afternoon I sand blasted the end of the guides in each chamber so I wasn't going to try and punch a rusty end through the hole. Soaked the guide in aerokroil again. Now on to the valves. The stems on the exhaust valves are toast. I plan on replacing all four. What are the standard OD's on UL intake and exhaust valves? Looking at kibblewhite black diamond valves unless someone suggests a better option.

[RUBONE]

I don't see any UL valves on the Kibblewhite site, only 45 valves.

[kitabel]

.370-.371"
Stem to guide .0035" min
Seat width intake .125", exhaust .15625"
With the seats already cut, the new seat OD is below deck and should be relieved up to zero deck; use the factory cutter if available

[PanPal]

I swore I found a set of standard Kibblewhite valves but now I only see oversized kibblewhite exhaust valves in my saved search files. Might have been through The good old motorcycle parts company. Any suggestions on where to purchase a set of decent valves would be appreciated.

Kitabel, I saved a long explanation of your valve seat grinding tips, either from earlier in this post or another I came across.

I may not have asked correctly, but wondered if my valves are standard or oversized. Mine measure
FE -1.865"
RE -1.912"
FI -1.920"
RI -1.927"
I have seen them offered in .125 over and assumed it was like using shovel valves to grab a valve job on clapped out pan seats.

[PanPal]

Guides are out. Went well but had to spot face the exhaust guides because the taper ends came to a point or sharp edge and figured it wouldn't go well with a punch Heated until oil was smoking coming out of the casting. 2 guides measure .595 1 is .5952 and 1 is .5953. May be should order 2 standards and 2 - .001 over??? First flathead, could use some direction from the veterans here.

[kitabel]

Nominal is 1.9375".
Eastern has a +.125" for both, haven't used them in 20 years so quality unknown.
Cut the seats only enough to raise the high end to deck level, and cut the valve down to that size.
If you have the room, a 30 degree intake seats flows better.
The completed seat should consist only of intersecting angle, but no "ledges" where they intersect.

[flat38]

Kibblewhite has standard and oversize valves for BTFH. The flathead listing shows the 45 valves but if you click on it, it has a drop down menu that allows you to choose big twin valves. They are around $38 each and are better than anything else I have used.