transmission ID
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Re: transmission ID
I'm going to look inside the primary case today. What is the correct mainshaft length ? For the 47 trans ? With the 65 pan combo ? Thx.[/quote]
I rode my bike for many years without putting a lot of miles on it. When I started taking it on long trips, I started stretching and tearing up the chain where I had to replace it often. Then I decided to put a belt in. The only way I could tell it was out of alignment was to put the bike up on a table. I have a spline shaft on my motor and a 48 trans. I ended up installing a 12 1/4" main shaft in the trans to line it up with the motor.
Open the primary and use straight edges across the gears. Then you will see if your combination is correct.
I rode my bike for many years without putting a lot of miles on it. When I started taking it on long trips, I started stretching and tearing up the chain where I had to replace it often. Then I decided to put a belt in. The only way I could tell it was out of alignment was to put the bike up on a table. I have a spline shaft on my motor and a 48 trans. I ended up installing a 12 1/4" main shaft in the trans to line it up with the motor.
Open the primary and use straight edges across the gears. Then you will see if your combination is correct.
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Re: transmission ID
Ty George. Can I still use tin primary if I go with a belt ? Or are you talking about an open belt primary ? I like the look of tin primary. But if I can keep it and use a belt, and not have to use oiler in primary, I would consider that. Thx.
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Re: transmission ID
I have a belt in a closed primary. I vented the inner primary. Drilled holes in front near bottom and rear for air flow. I ride my bike 200 miles and more at a time.
Fill ups for gas are every 100 miles without hitting reserve. Never had a problem with the belt or heat. Installed the belt in 2012
Attached is a picture of the breather I modified to oil the rear chain. I took a piece of brake line and brazed it to the breather.
I will try and take pictures of the venting later.
Fill ups for gas are every 100 miles without hitting reserve. Never had a problem with the belt or heat. Installed the belt in 2012
Attached is a picture of the breather I modified to oil the rear chain. I took a piece of brake line and brazed it to the breather.
I will try and take pictures of the venting later.
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65 Pan - Location: Ct
Re: transmission ID
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Re: transmission ID
apparently i have an enclosed belt drive.
the problem is, the clutch is rubbing on the outer primary cover.
the problem is, the clutch is rubbing on the outer primary cover.
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Re: transmission ID
if i remove the front sprocket to get at the bolts behind it, maybe i can can get enough play to move the inner primary up enough to clear the clutch?
would putting a block of wood in between the belt and the sprocket be enough to stop rotation and get the nut off?
is there a torque spec for re-tightening the nut ? thx
would putting a block of wood in between the belt and the sprocket be enough to stop rotation and get the nut off?
is there a torque spec for re-tightening the nut ? thx
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Re: transmission ID
Use a ratchet and socket, give it a good crack with a mallet, right handed thread, should loosen it up, or best use an impact wrench, if interested in swapping I have a '47 Knuckle with a ratchet top tranny, that I'm switching to a tank shifter.
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Re: transmission ID
Use an air or electric impact wrench. I never had any luck with out the impact.
Use a box wrench if you are going to try and hit it with a hammer. Otherwise you could ruin the edges of the nut when the socket slips off. The clutch hub nut is left hand thread.
I would remove everything and find out why it doesn't line up.
Use a box wrench if you are going to try and hit it with a hammer. Otherwise you could ruin the edges of the nut when the socket slips off. The clutch hub nut is left hand thread.
I would remove everything and find out why it doesn't line up.
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65 Pan - Location: Ct
Re: transmission ID
The belt lines up just fine, the problem is the clutch housing rubs on the primary cover, there isn't much play either way. I adjusted it so it is much better now
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Re: transmission ID
What did you adjust? Was the clutch basket loose? Did you have to tighten the clutch hub nut?
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Re: transmission ID
I adjusted the inner primary cover, the clutch hub isn't loose. I raised the cover and re tightened where the cover bolts to oil bag bracket. is that clutch hub too big for tin primary ?
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Re: transmission ID
Robbie,RUBONE wrote:The pictures show features consistent with the '47 dating. The kicker cover is later aftermarket along with the kicker arm. Interesting that it was built with the vented screw when it already had a vent. I suggest closing off the vent in the case and just using the screw (make sure the case is drilled all the way through) as the vent in the case is low enough that in heavy rain or washing the bike water gets into it.
Good advice.
I will take it, and replace the case vent with a proper sized screw, and install the one you mention for the top.
Thanks for the tip.
George
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Re: transmission ID
gallaecus wrote:im not too good with loading pics yet. do i need photobucket to copy and paste? can it be a 57 trans? can someone post a pic of what i should be looking for ?
thank you and i will look now for the vent
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