I understand the tappet screen type pictured below had first (around 1952) the checkball and the spring installed. But was that screen type used WITHOUT spring and checkball?
(I know the plug and the screen in the picture are broken.)
Tappet screen with or without checkball?
Tappet screen with or without checkball?
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1950Panhead
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Re: Tappet screen with or without checkball?
HopUp,
Your missing some parts, from the top down
24987-52 Plug
24994-52 Copper washer
24992-52 Spring
8856 7/32 steel ball
24985-52 Sleve
24972-52 Screen
24990-52 Seal
Jerry
Your missing some parts, from the top down
24987-52 Plug
24994-52 Copper washer
24992-52 Spring
8856 7/32 steel ball
24985-52 Sleve
24972-52 Screen
24990-52 Seal
Jerry
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Dave_R
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1979 FXE Shovel
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Re: Tappet screen with or without checkball?
On my '53 I do not run with the checkball.
Just the screen like you have pictured.
The way I understand it, was that the Checkball was to keep oil in the tappet area for the hydraulic lifters during start-up.
Otherwise, they would bleed down.
By switching to solids, the oil trapped by the checkball would just be another leak point and also restricts the oil return.
So, removing the checkball allows the oil to drain through.
At least, that is the way I understand it, and I never had any issues.
- Dave
Just the screen like you have pictured.
The way I understand it, was that the Checkball was to keep oil in the tappet area for the hydraulic lifters during start-up.
Otherwise, they would bleed down.
By switching to solids, the oil trapped by the checkball would just be another leak point and also restricts the oil return.
So, removing the checkball allows the oil to drain through.
At least, that is the way I understand it, and I never had any issues.
- Dave
Re: Tappet screen with or without checkball?
So I ordered the whole new setup with ball and spring too (not arrived yet). But I'm still wondering if the factory used this setup without the ball and spring. I'm sure someone out there knows the answer.
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1950Panhead
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Cotten
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Re: Tappet screen with or without checkball?
Folks,
A quick check of the '58+ Parts Catalog shows that they dispensed with the ballcheck housing, and introduced a new spring and screen for '63 through '65.
'66 introduced another new spring and screen, which is commonly back-dated without the early corks.
(A new cap and gasket was introduced n '66 as well.)
The Catalog cites use of the -63 spring until early '66,
however the fossil record shows late '65s and early '66s had only a welch plug instead!
Boy was that dumb.
....Cotten
A quick check of the '58+ Parts Catalog shows that they dispensed with the ballcheck housing, and introduced a new spring and screen for '63 through '65.
'66 introduced another new spring and screen, which is commonly back-dated without the early corks.
(A new cap and gasket was introduced n '66 as well.)
The Catalog cites use of the -63 spring until early '66,
however the fossil record shows late '65s and early '66s had only a welch plug instead!
Boy was that dumb.
....Cotten
Re: Tappet screen with or without checkball?
Thank You you everyone!
Parts arrived and got installed. Some strange problems accured. If I put two cork seals on bottom of the hole (no old ones there!) there would have quite a bit of crush with the top plug installed. Remembering this disaster: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4251&hilit=Case+Oil+Screen
I was afraid to go that way. I used only one cork seal. There was still about 1 - 2 mm of crush before the top plug bottoming. I think that's fine. I don't know the reason for not being able to use two seals. I think my old plug had the inner hole made bigger and weaker. thus the plug broke down as you can see in the first picture.
I figured out it should be ok put together this way.
Parts arrived and got installed. Some strange problems accured. If I put two cork seals on bottom of the hole (no old ones there!) there would have quite a bit of crush with the top plug installed. Remembering this disaster: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4251&hilit=Case+Oil+Screen
I was afraid to go that way. I used only one cork seal. There was still about 1 - 2 mm of crush before the top plug bottoming. I think that's fine. I don't know the reason for not being able to use two seals. I think my old plug had the inner hole made bigger and weaker. thus the plug broke down as you can see in the first picture.
I figured out it should be ok put together this way.