Sprocket shaft leakage q
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doc308
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Sprocket shaft leakage q
I have a leak at the spocket shaft on my '48 panhead engine. Q--is there any outer bushing /seal which can be replaced, without having to split the cases ?
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mbskeam
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Re: Sprocket shaft leakage q
yes, but theses can be easy or a real pain to do....
I have done mine before....
collony makes a modern seal type, about 20.00$
I have done mine before....
collony makes a modern seal type, about 20.00$
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concrete guy
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Re: Sprocket shaft leakage q
Hardest part will be making the tool. Some have two holes, some four for a tool to fit in. Left hand thread.
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mbskeam
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Re: Sprocket shaft leakage q
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2295&p=9205&hilit=s ... haft#p9205
the pic shows only 1 screw driver, but if you use 2, one on each side and pry out it may just pop right out....
the pic shows only 1 screw driver, but if you use 2, one on each side and pry out it may just pop right out....
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Cotten
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Re: Sprocket shaft leakage q
'48s didn't have a seal, much less anything that a spanner would fit.
The "slinger" is a mild steel collar retained within the main race by a circlip. Its inside diameter has a reversed thread to 'sling' oil back into the bearing pack, but allowing a little through for the primary drive sprocket.
It also provides an escape for sumped oil during extended lay-ups.
It is common for them to wear, as well as to wear into the mainshaft as play in the crank increases.
The modern band-aid is a collar with seal in it.
If the shaft is worn, the seal won't last long.
And upon extended lay-ups, the entire motor can fill with sumped oil.
If you choose a belt-drive, you have no choice but to use the sealed collar.
The most common problem with installation within an assembled short block is when the new Colony collar is too small for a race fitted for oversize rollers, and the oil just passes around it as it spins.
Good luck!
....Cotten
The "slinger" is a mild steel collar retained within the main race by a circlip. Its inside diameter has a reversed thread to 'sling' oil back into the bearing pack, but allowing a little through for the primary drive sprocket.
It also provides an escape for sumped oil during extended lay-ups.
It is common for them to wear, as well as to wear into the mainshaft as play in the crank increases.
The modern band-aid is a collar with seal in it.
If the shaft is worn, the seal won't last long.
And upon extended lay-ups, the entire motor can fill with sumped oil.
If you choose a belt-drive, you have no choice but to use the sealed collar.
The most common problem with installation within an assembled short block is when the new Colony collar is too small for a race fitted for oversize rollers, and the oil just passes around it as it spins.
Good luck!
....Cotten
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59Panman
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Re: Sprocket shaft leakage q
Could there be a problem with blowing any of the base or head gaskets when the engine fills up after an extended amount of time sitting? If so, what is the best way to get the oil out of the crank etc.?
The reason I ask is my front cylinder base gasket seems to be slightly weeping.
The reason I ask is my front cylinder base gasket seems to be slightly weeping.
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StueyC
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Re: Sprocket shaft leakage q
Mark, if your bike has been sitting for an extended period and you suspect wet sumping then you can drain the bulk of it by removing the small drain plug on your lower left case. There's not much room between the frame tube and plug when unscrewed but there should be just enough to get it out.
StueyC
StueyC
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Cotten
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Re: Sprocket shaft leakage q
Sumping, even with the original overflow at the shaft, can be quite a problem.
One local anecdote was that a rear cylinder was actually torn from the deck by hydraulic pressure of a mad hand on the throttle.
I cannot endorse using the drain plug any more; Too many fellows stripped it getting it back in.
For those of you who risk it, grind the head of the plug quite thin, and don't over-torque it like it holds the whole bike together.
Myself,
Sumped machines always needed other service as well, so draining both the tank and the oil lines for a flush also allowed sumpage to drool back out the pump. Takes a long time, but so did my service!
....Cotten
One local anecdote was that a rear cylinder was actually torn from the deck by hydraulic pressure of a mad hand on the throttle.
I cannot endorse using the drain plug any more; Too many fellows stripped it getting it back in.
For those of you who risk it, grind the head of the plug quite thin, and don't over-torque it like it holds the whole bike together.
Myself,
Sumped machines always needed other service as well, so draining both the tank and the oil lines for a flush also allowed sumpage to drool back out the pump. Takes a long time, but so did my service!
....Cotten