Need to lower end work?

[doc308]

I've just gotten 2 conflicting opinions as to whether my '50 needs a lower end rebuild. Q--what is considered to be acceptable side-to side rod play and up/down rod play? As best as I can measure, I think that I have about 1/8" side-to -side rod play and I can't detect up/down play. Any guidelines would be helpful.

Also, who would be a good supplier of stock-dimension, cylinders and pistons for an early panhead?

[Cotten]

Once upon a time I worked out of an independent shop with three Harley pros.

Every time a bottom end would come in, we would line up and make our most sincere faces with our tongues pressing out our lower lips as we played feely with it to diagnosis its condition before it would then be split anyway.

Unless you could pull up on a rod and make a knock noise by smacking your palm on the top of it, you can't tell the lit fuses from the sweet ones.

Some of the tightest turned out to have been overheated, thus the races were discolored and ready to fallout of the rods.

Unless you personally know the entire history of the machine, it's broke.

....Cotten

[Ripley/Fla]

Flush out your oil bag and take a good look at what comes out and then use a mag-light and see what's still in there. For what's its worth, I was trying to measure the rod shake ( it was at the manuals limit) and Cotten clued me in on pulling up and hitting it down. You will hear it if it is gone.

[Jack_Hester]

Unless you could pull up on a rod and make a knock noise by smacking your palm on the top of it, you can't tell the lit fuses from the sweet ones.

Some of the tightest turned out to have been overheated, thus the races were discolored and ready to fallout of the rods.

Unless you personally know the entire history of the machine, it's broke.

....Cotten

No truer words spoken! The biggest issue I've found on older rods/bearings has been fractured bearing cages. 45's are notorious for this. Don't even buy Sifton replacement cages. The few that I've had in my hands are obviously defective (broken/missing roller separators), right out of the package. The biggest reason that the OEM's fracture comes from the pounding they get from running as a worn-out assembly. I'm putting new bearing in, all the way around, if it comes into my shop. Bearings are cheap insurance. And, I inspect for spalling on the shafts, under a bright light and magnifier. If I even suspect, the shaft gets changed.

Jack

[doc308]

Thanks for the advice, friends. In this case, there is about 1/8" side play in the front rod, practically no play in the rear rod, and I can't discern much, if any, up and down play in either rod. One newbie- mechanic just told me not to worry too much about side play if there is no verticle play. What do thing about that statement?

Re: history--this is interesting. In 1968, I helped a friend find and purchase this bike in Boston. The motor was gone through around 1970 and has had no more than 20k miles put on it since then. From the mid 80's the bike was rarely used, with occasional 10-20 mile rides being the norm. Aside from occasional light-to light hotrodding when we were kids, the motor was never raced extensively or hammered unreasonably. It was used for highway cruising.

On a personal, historical note, my friend and I lost touch in the mid-80's when he moved from NY to Ca. We reconnected about 3 years ago via the internet. Sadly, he was dying of cancer and during one of our conversations, he told me that he still had the bike. He was trying to sell it, in that he knew he'd never ride again. So, I bought it from him, with the intention of refurbishing it and sending him updated vids and photos of the project ( we stripped the bike twice in the past and had many good times working on it and riding together). Unfortunately, he died within a month of my getting the bike . So, after being out of the bike scene for about 25 years, I'm redoing the bike in honor of my deceased friend, Ken. I plan on writing up an article on the history of the bike, the good old days, and this project at some point. Anyway--that is the history of the bike. Sorry to get carried away with the other less-relevant ( re: the Q of rod rebuild) details.

Anyway--I appreciate all of the great info and help which I get on this site. I've been away from bikes for so long I feel like Rip Van Winkle!

[Jack_Hester]

Sorry about your friend. Tough reunion, at best.

Do you know anything about where the bike was kept? Dry garage? Damp shed? If it was ridden no more than 10 to 20 miles at a time for normal rides (sounds like it sat a lot), I'd say treat it as needing a major rebuild. At worst, you'll find it tight, and in good condition. But, create some new history with it, starting with a fresh inspection and no doubt about where it is starting out.

Jack

[nmaineron]

I would split the cases and have a good look...can't hurt,sides an 1/8" isn't on the tight side of things...if alls good, your into it for gaskets..if not, you did the right thing...good luck

[nmaineron]

just saw that the post was older than dirt,hope he did the right thing