Lifters

Bottom End (crankcases and crankshaft)
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DuoDave
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Lifters

#1

Post by DuoDave »

I see there has been some discussion on the subject of lifters recently. Might be a good time to run a poll on solids versus hydraulic, and the problems encountered either way?
King
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Re: Lifters

#2

Post by King »

Hi Duo

I'm using the stock solids that came with my 51 FL. I went to solid pushrods a while back when my old "oilcan" lifters finally went south. The total solid set-up turned out to be quieter and more responsive. I've recently installed an Andrews #1 cam. My initial assessment (after 13 hours) is that it has improved performance quite a bit.
As Cotten has noted, the soild set-ups lack the "cushoning" of the hydraulics and are hard on the tappet rollers. Even though mine looked OK, I installed a new set of Crane rollers to be on the safe side.

King
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Re: Lifters

#3

Post by Cotten »

Pre-'53 machines have little choice but to run solids, as original units that work are rare, and re-machining cases and updating to modern blocks is often undesireable.
The choice for later models depends for the most part upon your choice of cam, and what it was designed to accept.
Either way, it is prudent to replace the rollers every 30,000 miles. Since most top ends last ~20,000, it is safest to replace them with each rebuild, as the mental security of a rebuild often makes the rider forget to service the rollers 10,000 miles later.
bieb
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Re: Lifters

#4

Post by bieb »

I'm using hydrolics in my 61 pan. Replaced all with a recent rebiuld. Along with rebuilt heads from head hog. I like that everything is quiet now in the lifter area.
57pan
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Re: Lifters

#5

Post by 57pan »

Last summer I had solid conversion units in mine. This year I put the hydraulic units back in. I think I prefer the less clatter of the hydraulics.
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Re: Lifters

#6

Post by Cotten »

The 'clatter' of solids can be reduced significantly with proper adjustment. The widespread belief that they should be set loose as a goose is half the problem.
Aluminum pushrods have a different thermal expansion coefficient, and must be set much tighter than steel rods. So if noise is a concern, choose steel of course, as they expand more similarly to your castiron cylinders, and are more forgiving of adjustment variance.
Aluminum rods should be set as tight as possible without losing compression. I found it hard to believe at first, too!
Either way, the motor should start as quiet as hydraulics, clack a bit as the motor warms, and then return to a nice tickety song when fully up to temperature.
Other noise concerns come from poor replacement slugs (the part that replaces the hydraulic unit itself).
Colony slugs for original '53+ rods work just fine.
S&S press-fit slugs (with their steel rods) are ideal.
The cheapos with silly springs inside are stupid. The springs should be pitched immediately, but the loose slugs will still never be as quiet as they should be.

Beware of slugs that just don't fit the bottom of the pushrod!
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