Sproket shaft seal renewal procedure ?

[Jarppi]

I have a question about Sprocket shaft seal renewal for -54 crankshaft.

-Can I change it from the from outside, just to take that lock washer off and pull that old seal ?
-Or do I have to open engine block and renew it from the inside ?

Does anyone have experince to share about this and what is the proper renewal procedure.

[Cotten]

Jarppi!

It can be done, but you will curse a few times along the way.

Removing the installed snap ring will be a matter of destroying it.

One thing you must consider is:
Why does it need to be replaced?
If the seal was worn out prematurely by irregularities upon the shaft, such as old slinger grooves or excessive sideplay, then the new seal won't last long either.

Another concern with the Colony kit is the fit of the seal housing within the race. If the race has been fitted with oversize rollers, the housings are known will drop in loose, and do nothing to stop the flow of oil around it.

If you can turn the old housing within the race, you might as well just goober it up. If you insist on doing it as proper as possible (without a total crank overhaul..) you may find yourself attempting to swell the housing to a larger OD by punishing it in a press with a piece of pipe that fits comfortably over the seal and lip. And then hope you haven't lost its concentricity when you dress it down to a press fit.

Personally, I would just as soon return to a chain drive and eliminate the grief.

....Cotten

[Jarppi]

you might as well just goober it up

Sorry, but what that means My english is not covering that sentence

Thanks Cotten for advice, and I will give a shot anyway.
And I think that old seal has just run out of miles. It looks so old and worn.

[Cotten]

Jarppi!

By "goober", I refer to any sealer, adhesive, or 'potting compound' that would bandage the assembly temporarily.

As I mentioned, all of this is only critical if a belt drive is desired.

Let us know how it goes,

....Cotten

[mbskeam]

remove the keeper ring with dental picks, then use 2 flat blade screw drivers shone here

you will find the new seal steel outer part is bigger on the OD than the one you remove, carefully reduce the OD on a belt sander, till it is the same size as your old seal or slightly bigger.
or you could just replace the seal that is in the retainer and not mess with getting the steel part out, I have done this also, and it is much simpler and faster to do.
I also have used silicone to help seal up a weep on the steel to steel part, just clean it up real good with Q-tips and lacquer thinner and it will stick good.
I dont have the seal number but it is in a seal book at work..."CR seals" is a major suppler of seals

http://www.skfextranet.com/Catalogs/457 ... asp?s=9815

this seal is 1.250 OD X.125 THK X 1.000 ID part # 9815...

mbskeam

[Cotten]

Re-installing only the seal and not the entire housing requires a very precise sleeve that will fit snugly over the shaft, but not interfere with the race or seal housing.

Better buy extras of the delicate seals, because even with a proper tool, they like to pucker and warp when pressed into the space that is restricted with the shaft in place.

....Cotten

[Jarppi]

but you will curse a few times along the way

No cuss words this time !

Removing old really worn seal housing was first little tricky but eventually lock ring snapped off and also the whole seal housing came out easily.

New seal housing fitted to case like a glove and fitment was right all the way.
I did not need to sand new seal frame at all, I just tap it carefully to case.
And I but some silicone to seal housing, hoping it will keep it more tight.

But lets see when motor will run and hopefully no oil will spill out.

Thanks for encouraging words for the work