replacing engine seal

Bottom End (crankcases and crankshaft)
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pan58hd

replacing engine seal

#1

Post by pan58hd »

Hello All, I'm replacing the seal at the end of the crank (primary side) on my 58. This a adjutable screw in seal, which pre loades the bearing. How my play should there be. Thanks in advance Bob
Cotten
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#2

Post by Cotten »

Bob!

Your machine was not originally produced with a seal upon the sprocket shaft.

And the large nut that you might call a "seal" did not pre-load the Timken bearing. There is no pre-load, as the endplay is determined by the spacer dimension between the two conical bearings.

Have you modified the original design to use a belt drive? If not, a seal is the last thing you need.

...Cotten
VT

#3

Post by VT »

Bob - If you can wait until our Vol.2 comes out, it explains all that you want to know in this area. It can be involved to do it right, and it's Stetts info, in Vol. 2 so I can't really go on in depth about it.
If you have to replace your seal right now and can't wait, just turn the old seal out and install the new one to the same depth as the old one, and make sure you remove all of the over-plating between the threads or the seal will not turn into the crankcase completely. Use a standard spanner for all the seals other than the CCI brand of seal - for that you'd need a JIMS wrench. Don't use a punch to install the seal.
pan58hd

replacing engine seal

#4

Post by pan58hd »

Thanks for the response, I guess I should have gave alittle more info. Im replacing the ring (nut)on the primary side with nut with a built in seal, I'm converting toa belt drive and trying to seal up the crank. i already pulled the old one out to measure and bought a replacement. Just curious how tight it should be. I thought this pre loaded the bearing. I have looked in the service manual and cant find any thing about it Thanks in advance Bob
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#5

Post by Cotten »

Bob!

Your "nut' with a seal within it was not Factory, so it will never be in HD literature, but if you must have a belt primary, you must have it.

Replacement seals are easily obtained from your local Dixie dealer.
The nut should be tightened firmly with a proper spanner (betcha have to make one, as the holes are not the same spacing as Factory), and then "loctite"-ed in place.

More important is the diameter and surface upon the spacer that actually tightens against the bearing, as its finish is proportional to the seal's life expectancy.

By the way, the Timken bearing must be replaced as an assembly, which means splitting the motor cases.

....Cotten
pan58hd

replacing engine seal

#6

Post by pan58hd »

Thanks cotten for the response. The only reason for the belt drive is to slow down the oil leak(I didn't say stop). Yeah your right I had to make a spanner wrench. I kinda see how it works now Bob
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