Prefered method of sealing cases?
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Prefered method of sealing cases?
Whats a better method?spreading the sealer on or making a nice small bead?
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Re: Prefered method of sealing cases?
These days I am using Permatex moto seal with good results.I use a very fine bead making sure I go all the way around the stud holes. Back about 25 years I used avation Permatex with good results too .
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Re: Prefered method of sealing cases?
AS long as the mating surfaces are GOOD!---I would double check with some Machinists blue--& if all is good ,then continue with what worked for you!---If you have any low or highspots,,I would lap the 2 together with fine compound!--Recheck & continue as usual!----RICHIE
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Re: Prefered method of sealing cases?
Folks,
I have only had one case sealer fail in service, and it was upon my own machine (ca 1989).
I don't blame the Yamabond4, though.
It was my own fault for trusting the petcock.
Although I have used 3M #800 Industrial adhesive because the MOCO did,
I am really, really impressed with the way Permatex's "The Right Stuff" is holding up in this year's P4gas tests!
And its the same color as Yamabond4.
....Cotten
I have only had one case sealer fail in service, and it was upon my own machine (ca 1989).
I don't blame the Yamabond4, though.
It was my own fault for trusting the petcock.
Although I have used 3M #800 Industrial adhesive because the MOCO did,
I am really, really impressed with the way Permatex's "The Right Stuff" is holding up in this year's P4gas tests!
And its the same color as Yamabond4.
....Cotten
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Re: Prefered method of sealing cases?
Cotten,I put together a 65 XL lower end several years ago using the right stuff.The sealing surfaces were badly boogered and the owner was not financially able to have them repaired properly.That engine is running today and still does not leak between the cases.Last year I put a well cured chunk of right stuff in a jar of our local ethanol\gasoline.I left it there for two weeks and it did swell a little but did not dissolve. Only problem with it I have found is trying to get whatever you put together with it apart!
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Re: Prefered method of sealing cases?
Steinauge!
I never heard of it until May or so,
as I'm just not a goober lover; too many snake oils out there,.. and the cheez-whiz dispenser would have run me off almost as fast as the price!
It swelled for you?
Uhoh.
....Cotten
I never heard of it until May or so,
as I'm just not a goober lover; too many snake oils out there,.. and the cheez-whiz dispenser would have run me off almost as fast as the price!
It swelled for you?
Uhoh.
....Cotten
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Re: Prefered method of sealing cases?
Grey HD case sealer, I put a light coat on both halves, You can pat it on with your finger. It does not take much to seal, just dont over do it, something you dont want to do twice! I have used clear silicon with no issues, but only because it was the only thing avalible were I was. Never had one leak yet. Adam
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Re: Prefered method of sealing cases?
Hey guys,
The 'right stuff' is wicked stuff. i believe it's dimethylsiloxane silicone. it sets up like rubber, and really bonds to metal(well cleaned surfaces(lightly sanded or ground), of course). i had to 'cut' an aluminum oil pan off of a customers suv with a razor blade. (note: don't use a rag for an oil cap on an overhead cam engine that you can actually see the cam through the oil fill hole. it tends to clog the pickup in the pan after the cam gets ahold of the rag. i found his cap wedged by the motor mount while i was in there)
i know ford has been using dimethylsiloxane silicone on some of their oil pans since the 90's. from the ford dealer, it comes in a caulking gun type tube. once it's opened though, it has a relatively short shelf life. even the right stuff doesn't last long in the cheez-whiz can on the shelf, which kinda sucks at $20 a can.
i have used 'the right stuff' to make rubber mounts on a forklift radiator. the radiator had 4 plates with molded rubber pads with a threaded stud sticking out of the rubber. the studs had pulled out of the rubber and the mounts were no longer available from the dealer. i used a die grinder to hollow out the existing rubber, sat the head of a bolt in the hollow and filled them with the right stuff, then sat a flat washer on top of the 'stuff'. i left them sit over night and bolted everything back together. that was probably 4 years ago.
i bought an 18volt 1/2" impact gun from matco a few years ago and was disappointed to find that once you put a socket on it, it would tip over when you would sit it down. i blobbed a pile of the right stuff on the bottom of the battery, and the next day molded it real nice with a 2" cookie on a right angle die grinder, to tilt the gun back at an angle, so now i can put a socket on it with a 4" extension and it still doesn't tip over. in the last year or so matco came out with a 'boot' that slips over the battery that tilts the gun back. The right stuff is much better than their boot. it hasn't even peeled away from the thinnest edges of it with daily use. i guess they didn't put a whole lot of thought into actually 'using' the gun and too much thought into what color to make it.
I'm sure it would never leak if you were to use it on the cases, but as Steinauge has already pointed out, i'd be somewhat hesitant to use it on something you wouldn't what to ruin trying to get apart again down the road.
i find this 'stuff' to be yet another useful material in my bag of tricks now-a-days.
if i only had this stuff when i was a kid, man!
Blaine...
The 'right stuff' is wicked stuff. i believe it's dimethylsiloxane silicone. it sets up like rubber, and really bonds to metal(well cleaned surfaces(lightly sanded or ground), of course). i had to 'cut' an aluminum oil pan off of a customers suv with a razor blade. (note: don't use a rag for an oil cap on an overhead cam engine that you can actually see the cam through the oil fill hole. it tends to clog the pickup in the pan after the cam gets ahold of the rag. i found his cap wedged by the motor mount while i was in there)
i know ford has been using dimethylsiloxane silicone on some of their oil pans since the 90's. from the ford dealer, it comes in a caulking gun type tube. once it's opened though, it has a relatively short shelf life. even the right stuff doesn't last long in the cheez-whiz can on the shelf, which kinda sucks at $20 a can.
i have used 'the right stuff' to make rubber mounts on a forklift radiator. the radiator had 4 plates with molded rubber pads with a threaded stud sticking out of the rubber. the studs had pulled out of the rubber and the mounts were no longer available from the dealer. i used a die grinder to hollow out the existing rubber, sat the head of a bolt in the hollow and filled them with the right stuff, then sat a flat washer on top of the 'stuff'. i left them sit over night and bolted everything back together. that was probably 4 years ago.
i bought an 18volt 1/2" impact gun from matco a few years ago and was disappointed to find that once you put a socket on it, it would tip over when you would sit it down. i blobbed a pile of the right stuff on the bottom of the battery, and the next day molded it real nice with a 2" cookie on a right angle die grinder, to tilt the gun back at an angle, so now i can put a socket on it with a 4" extension and it still doesn't tip over. in the last year or so matco came out with a 'boot' that slips over the battery that tilts the gun back. The right stuff is much better than their boot. it hasn't even peeled away from the thinnest edges of it with daily use. i guess they didn't put a whole lot of thought into actually 'using' the gun and too much thought into what color to make it.
I'm sure it would never leak if you were to use it on the cases, but as Steinauge has already pointed out, i'd be somewhat hesitant to use it on something you wouldn't what to ruin trying to get apart again down the road.
i find this 'stuff' to be yet another useful material in my bag of tricks now-a-days.
if i only had this stuff when i was a kid, man!
Blaine...