Oil pump issues. Need help troubleshooting.

[blackrag]

I realize now after searching and reading prior posts here that I probably created my own problem.
My 62 pan starts easy and runs great. For a long time the oil light flickered at a light or idle when at temperature. Over the winter I decided to remedy the "problem". I pulled the oil pump apart and found a scarred cover plate. I bought a new plate and gasket kit. Put it back together and no change. I took it back apart, measured the end play on both scavenge and feed sides and looked for reference. I even posted the findings here in a previous post. Long story-short, I bought a new repop v-twin oil pump and installed it. Following the install-

1. Oil light comes on and stays on.
2. Oil streams out of the primary.

Tonight I checked the oil level and noticed it was low, figured all the oil was in the crankcase, put 1/2 a quart in anyway. Started the bike, oil started coming out of the primary, I looked in the oil tank while running and it was "spitting" out of the top return, no steady stream. I ran it as long as I dared, then shut it down.

I am DISGUSTED. Any ideas of where to start?

I realize now I probably should have pulled the idiot light and forgot about it before wrecking my beautiful pan.

I'd like to try and make this new oil pump work if possible.

[steinauge]

First off be sure you have not got too much oil in the engine!.If you insist on using the repop pump I would first check to make sure all the oil holes in the gasket line up with the holes in the case,then check your gear protrusion on both scavenge and feed-should be around .001-.004". The oil coming out the primary indicates the scavenge side of the pump is not functioning properly.This can be caused by inadequate gear protrusion,excessive gear to body clearance.a sheared scavenge key or a pump gasket that is too thick(thus in effect creating inadequate gear protrusion).If it wasnt doing this prior to the pump change I would sure put the OEM pump back on it.HTH

[VT]

I bought a new repop v-twin oil pump and installed it. Following the install-

1. Oil light comes on and stays on.
2. Oil streams out of the primary.

No doubt due to the fact there even though there is a tapered needle, there is no actual seat within the pump, which makes the pump only usable if it is used in conjunction with the Vol. 2 "belt primary conversion" procedures.
As a chain primary oil pump, it is no good. Some of the pumps have seats, some don't. If the pump is still under warranty or if V-Twin is in a "community mood", they will take the pump back and send you another one.

[blackrag]

I guess this explains why the oiler screw never bottoms out. Are you telling me that this is "by-passing" the return and pumping straight into the primary? Holy sh$t, that $ucks.

Next question, Where can I buy the mylar-type gaskets? I can only find the paper .009 gaskets. I am going to resurrect the old pump.

For what it's worth, I mic'd the old and new gaskets, as well as the distance each gear protrudes from the pump body.

The old mylar gaskets:
Pump Cover- .006
Pump Body to Case- .004
New paper gaskets: - .009

Now using a depth mic....
Old Feed Side Gear Protrustion:
Drive-.003
Idler-.0005/Flush
Old Scavenge Side Gear Protrusion:
Drive-.004
Idler-.003

In theory, I should be able to surface grind the old end plate to get the scars out and surface grind the pump body to achieve an end play goal on both scavenge and feed sides of .001-.004?

I guess my other option would be to install a seat in the VT pump body....?

[VT]

I guess my other option would be to install a seat in the VT pump body....?

The only cure for that pump body would be for someone from V-Twin® to produce a U-Tube® segment on how to install a pump seat. There are pumps, like the Knuckle iron one, that might have seats. The one I purchased for a customer (12-1947) has no seat. It was label dated 10/29/04. Used for a belt primary.
"The "problem", is that many of the micro-producers (surrounding the complex. like the tradesmen living around the o.d. of the Duomo construction [300 yrs. just for the roof] in Florence, Italy) will make the oil pump correctly for a little while, and then drift off... to making them wrong for awhile, and it's just too hard to control ", spoken by the "floor-walker", tech source, union organizer, catalog photographer and all around utility-man.
Well, we here at http://hydra-glide.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; have a manufacturer-inclusive presentation we're working on.

You can use your non-seated pump, if the ONLY problem is "continual oil flow to the primary cover interior snoot pipe", and convert your 1936-1964 Big Twin to a belt primary by purchasing Vol. 2 and follow the complete procedure.
Belt or return your pump. That seems like your choices.

[steinauge]

!!!!!####$$$$******???? After 42 years in the business I guess I shouldnt be surprised at anything the aftermarket does---but---

[NightShift]

!!!!!####$$$$******???? :shock:After 42 years in the business I guess I shouldnt be surprised at anything the aftermarket does---but---

And it ain't gonna stop as long as there is more money in chrome foofoo than decent spares.

NightShift

[blackrag]

Tough for me to confess but I pulled the timing cover and turned the drive shaft to find that the pump wasn't engaging. When I pulled the pump I could NOT find a drive shaft key. After denial and every magnet in the box etc... I can only deduce that I did not install the key. I installed a key, reinstalled the pump and the oil light went out immediately following start. However, excessive oil continued to pour out of the primary. I found a 10-32 bolt measuring 1.5" under the head, turned the end to 118 degrees (same as a drill bit), turned about 6 threads off and installed snug with a jam nut. After an hour following a 60 mile pleasant (perfect performing) run about 2 tablespoons leaked on to the floor.
Only problem is, as I was coming up the driveway, I thumbed the horn button a few times to celebrate victory and the motor shut off. Back in the shop, battery now reads .012 volts. ?????

[blackrag]

For what it's worth on this unrelated issue... After being on the charger overnight the battery was indeed shot. Put another in today and repeated the 60 mile run including blowing the horn coming up the drive. Let it sit for an hour and ran it again. Bike runs good, charges, oil is circulating, idiot light off. After sitting awhile, I got a drip mark the size of a half dollar under the primary. Appears as though all is well. Thanks.

229856590.jpg

[fourthgear]

Very nice looking ride !

[blackrag]

Thanks! Me and the bike were pretty well totaled about a year and half ago by an old lady and we're still here. Kinda sucks restoring a bike twice, especially when I only had 175 miles and 2 weeks on the first build.