Swapping oil pumps

Lubrication System (oil feed pump and scavenger pump, reservoir, filter, and lines)
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awander
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Swapping oil pumps

#1

Post by awander »

I have a '52 FL that someone put an aftermarket(S&S) pump on. I want to change it back to stock for various reasons.

I also have a '64 FLH that is currently not running. I plan to install thi stock pump from the '64 on the '52.

My questions are:

1) I left the oil pump drive shaft installed in the '52 so I would not have to open the gearcase. With the 'pump from the '64 installed, it appears that there is at least 1/4", and maybe 3/8" of free end-to-end movement on the drive shaft-in other words, I can pull the driveshaft out from where it should be by about 1/4"-3/8" Is this normal?

2) From what I have read, the '64 stock pump should work fine on teh '52 engine. Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks,
Panacea
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Re: Swapping oil pumps

#2

Post by Panacea »

Whoever put the S&S pump on there probably had to re-drill the case to work with the new pump, ( a special fixture is available for just this reason) you may want to go online to S&S and read thru that procedure so you know what you are going to have to plug to return to stock. Mike
awander
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Re: Swapping oil pumps

#3

Post by awander »

Hi Mike:

Thanks for the tip; yes I have read the S&S instructions-it appears that there is one "optional" drilling step for this S&S pump on a '52 motor-It is actually a drill, tap, plug, and another drilling step, but they lump it all together-so I will check to see if that has been done, but it doesn't look like it so far.

I broke down and took off the gear cover and discovered that, contrary to what Brent Glick at S&S told me, the S&S drive shaft for their oil pump is about 1/4" or so longer than the one for the stock pump. Of course, you can't slide the shaft out while the motor is in the frame-it hits the brake crossover tube. I am going to try loosening up the mount bolts, taking off the "case guard" plate, and jacking up the motor from below to see if I can do it without taking the motor out.
Panacea
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Re: Swapping oil pumps

#4

Post by Panacea »

You may have to remove the inner primary to get much "wiggle room", you'll need 3 1/2" clearance to get the shaft out. Mike
mbskeam
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Re: Swapping oil pumps

#5

Post by mbskeam »

you could cut the shaft,time vs what a new shaft would cost.(S&S shaft)
I have a S&S pump on a 49 rt case, I did not have to do any mods, so your cases most likely have not been drilled.
I think the stock oil pump shaft will slide in with the engine in place.


mbskeam
awander
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Re: Swapping oil pumps

#6

Post by awander »

Well, I had to unbolt the motor, take off the tanks and the top motor mount, and disconnect the 2 screws holding the rear of the primary cover on, but I was then able to jack the motor up enough to remove teh S&S shaft and install the stock one.

Then proceeded to put it all back together, and only then noticed I had a C-clip left over-sure enough, i didn;t install the clip on the scavenger drive gear end of the shaft. I'm glad I noticed that before I started 'er up.

Is there a need to "prime" the oil pump after first installing it?
Panacea
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Re: Swapping oil pumps

#7

Post by Panacea »

I spent all morning at the Buffalo chip re-installing the Jesus clip on a buddy's evo bagger with nothing but the tools in my saddlebag. He wanted to put a piece of black tape over the oil lite! Mike
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