Cannister oil filter leak

Lubrication System (oil feed pump and scavenger pump, reservoir, filter, and lines)
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papas53pan
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Cannister oil filter leak

#1

Post by papas53pan »

Does anyone have any brilliant ideas on how to change the filter on a canister type filter that sits right outside the oil bag and put it back together so the D**n thing don't leak. I'm out of ideas. Over the years I've changed the d**n thing 50 times and it always leaks. Either around the top where the canister goes into the top or from the nut at the bottom. My next and only idea is Dynamite! Tried making my own gaskets thicker/ thinner and nothing seems to stop the drips. Papa
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Re: Cannister oil filter leak

#2

Post by old.wrench »

I hear you, they can make a real mess when they leak!
If it's the early stock type filter with the can and the replaceable element , you can usually get the top of the can to seal by using a little Hylomar or PermaShield on a new gasket. On the bottom of the can, a little bit of the same goober helps, or you can add a thin rubber washer. Sometimes what happens is that the bottom of the can (that holds the filter element) gets crushed in so that it's sort of concave from too much tightening of the nut when trying to stop a leak; if that is the case, you can tap it back into shape by setting the can on something good and solid and then take something metal with the right shape on the end and stick it in there and tap on it with a hammer until you restore the bottom of the canister back to it's original shape, that should give you a flat surface that you'll have a much better chance of getting a decent seal on.
No explosives required :D !

Geo
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Re: Cannister oil filter leak

#3

Post by james »

Papa
I'm with Geo on this one. Straighten the can. Some permatex on the paper gasket, a copper washer under the bottom acorn nut with some permatex hydralic thread sealer. Do it all clean and dry, don't over-tighten.
Good luck, Tell us what happens next.
Jim
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Re: Cannister oil filter leak

#4

Post by PanPal »

I never had much luck with the paper gaskets on the top of the canister. I use the rubber top gaskets and no sealer. On the bottom use one of the steel washers with rubber laminated to the washer. They are used when attaching steel to roofs or steel buildings on each screw. I do put sealer on the threads after I put the washer on and use an acorn nut. And as said earlier flatten the bottom out first. I've had the same problem every time but doing it this way it has sealed the first time.
john HD
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Re: Cannister oil filter leak

#5

Post by john HD »

EVO rocker box washers are rubberized on one side and work for the bottom.

john
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Re: Cannister oil filter leak

#6

Post by old.wrench »

The washers that Panpal is referring to are for the heavy-duty, self-drilling, self-tapping screws usually used for siding metal buildings. They generally have a slight crown to them and have a layer of neoprene laminated to the bottom. I've used them myself on the bottom of the filter can, and they work good :idea: . If I remember right, the washer from a #12 screw is the one that will fit the bottom of the filter. Stainless, galvanized, or painted.

Geo.
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Re: Cannister oil filter leak

#7

Post by PanPal »

http://www.mcmaster.com/#neoprene-rubbe ... rs/=szb7wn" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I bought a package from here.
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Re: Cannister oil filter leak

#8

Post by Bigincher »

Isn't there a 'stop' nut or 'jam' nut on the rod above the bottom of the can on the inside? The setting of that 'stop' nut is important, too. If you're caving in the bottom of the can and making it concave, it means the nut isn't there or not adjusted properly.
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Re: Cannister oil filter leak

#9

Post by RUBONE »

Search previous posts, it is all detailed there.
papas53pan
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Re: Cannister oil filter leak

#10

Post by papas53pan »

Too Good! I'll start at the top and let you know what worked! Papa
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Re: Cannister oil filter leak

#11

Post by Northman »

john HD wrote:EVO rocker box washers are rubberized on one side and work for the bottom.

john
Good one! I used a a banjo brake washer with the rubber moulded in it in the past, worked okay but yours is a better recomndation. Did an oil change and went to plain hardware store crush type washers (in my stash) and used a little permatex (black.. called "the right stuff") 1 minute gasket maker. you have plenty of time to work with the stuff it don't set up in a minute, it will seal in a minute... I also left the bottom of the can tapered slightly as it was, since it appears to be adjusted and stops at that point. I placed a small o ring over the rod and it filled the bevel nice and then a washer over that. No leak. not even a glossy area top or bottom. :D

Northman
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