Clyinder Honing
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Clyinder Honing
I've got some spare cylinders lying around, and I got to thinking about the feasibility of honing them myself.
I've heard that ball hones are relatively easy to use, and give very good results.
Any comments, tips or suggestions?
Anybody used a ball hone and gotten good results?
I've heard that ball hones are relatively easy to use, and give very good results.
Any comments, tips or suggestions?
Anybody used a ball hone and gotten good results?
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Re: Clyinder Honing
Steve!
They are an absolute must for prepping barn-find cylinders so they won't damage your boregauge. Mine has lasted decades in that capacity.
Beyond that, the word from Hastings Rings back in the '80s was that they should only be used to stir paint.
I'm not afraid to hit a Monel carb bushing with a Flex-Hone at all.
Not for the bushing anyway.
....Cotten
They are an absolute must for prepping barn-find cylinders so they won't damage your boregauge. Mine has lasted decades in that capacity.
Beyond that, the word from Hastings Rings back in the '80s was that they should only be used to stir paint.
I'm not afraid to hit a Monel carb bushing with a Flex-Hone at all.
Not for the bushing anyway.
....Cotten
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Re: Clyinder Honing
love Cotton's responses - they would make an excellent paint mixer...
They are a useful tool but have limitations - they will not make an out of round, tapered or otherwise worn out cylinder useable again.
They can however be used to re-establish a cross hatch pattern on an otherwise serviceable used cylinder.
But - honing cylinders requires more than just a ball hone - you will also need the pistons you are honing the cylinders for, a rigid hone, torque plates, some micrometers, and a dial bore gauge at a minimum otherwise you're just making them look pretty.
I know it's not a pan but here is a writeup I did on my shovel's top end - with tool picts and all
http://shovelhead.us/forum/showthread.php?t=57257" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
-J
They are a useful tool but have limitations - they will not make an out of round, tapered or otherwise worn out cylinder useable again.
They can however be used to re-establish a cross hatch pattern on an otherwise serviceable used cylinder.
But - honing cylinders requires more than just a ball hone - you will also need the pistons you are honing the cylinders for, a rigid hone, torque plates, some micrometers, and a dial bore gauge at a minimum otherwise you're just making them look pretty.
I know it's not a pan but here is a writeup I did on my shovel's top end - with tool picts and all
http://shovelhead.us/forum/showthread.php?t=57257" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
-J
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Re: Clyinder Honing
I was just quoting the Hastings rep, Jason!
Their contention was that the ball hones rip, gouge, and tear the surface, rather than to cut precisely the way a 'positive stone' hone does. Thus a proper hone can use successively finer grits to just cut the peaks off of the last cut, createing "plateaus" that are remarkably flat, yet still providing the crosshatch to hold, and quite importantly, distribute oil.
Please remember that modern rings do not count upon the surface to "seat" them. Ideally, there should be no wear at all.
....Cotten
PS: Folks,
This isn't to say that there isn't a time and a place for a ball hone! I just regret that I can wear one out in seconds upon a Monel bushing without accomplishing much.
Their contention was that the ball hones rip, gouge, and tear the surface, rather than to cut precisely the way a 'positive stone' hone does. Thus a proper hone can use successively finer grits to just cut the peaks off of the last cut, createing "plateaus" that are remarkably flat, yet still providing the crosshatch to hold, and quite importantly, distribute oil.
Please remember that modern rings do not count upon the surface to "seat" them. Ideally, there should be no wear at all.
....Cotten
PS: Folks,
This isn't to say that there isn't a time and a place for a ball hone! I just regret that I can wear one out in seconds upon a Monel bushing without accomplishing much.
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Re: Clyinder Honing
Thanks Cotton - I've heard the same thing and will defer to your experience..
Unfortunately it depends on who you talk to and when.. Even the ring manufacturers change their tune from time to time.. This from Hasting's site (might be different tomorrow)
http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTips/ ... lazing.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
For the original poster - what you can take from this is there are different ways to do things successfully.. Probably most important are stone grit\cross hatch angle\piston fit and cleanliness, cleanliness, cleanliness - oh yeah don't forget break in procedure and oil type if you really want to see differing opinions..
Again - Cotton has been doing this successfully for longer than I've been alive (probably) so take what he says with that in mind, he has probably forgotten more that I'll ever know..
-J
Unfortunately it depends on who you talk to and when.. Even the ring manufacturers change their tune from time to time.. This from Hasting's site (might be different tomorrow)
http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTips/ ... lazing.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
For the original poster - what you can take from this is there are different ways to do things successfully.. Probably most important are stone grit\cross hatch angle\piston fit and cleanliness, cleanliness, cleanliness - oh yeah don't forget break in procedure and oil type if you really want to see differing opinions..
Again - Cotton has been doing this successfully for longer than I've been alive (probably) so take what he says with that in mind, he has probably forgotten more that I'll ever know..
-J
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Re: Clyinder Honing
All good points gentlemen. These cylinders in question are in very good shape. Less than 50 miles on the previous hone job. I just wanted to re-establish the proper surface for the new rings.
So although it may be more expensive, I'm sensing that the smart thing to do is to bring it to the experts and have them do it. Provided they aren't just going to quickly run a ball hone through them.....
So although it may be more expensive, I'm sensing that the smart thing to do is to bring it to the experts and have them do it. Provided they aren't just going to quickly run a ball hone through them.....
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Re: Clyinder Honing
Jason!
I am aghast and mortified at the Hastings link!
It seems like just yesterday I was on the phone with them,... although it was.... 1988 maybe.
....Cotten
RE: "doing this successfully for longer than I've been alive"
Cough*gasp* Get my box ready children.. I'm fading... fast!
I am aghast and mortified at the Hastings link!
It seems like just yesterday I was on the phone with them,... although it was.... 1988 maybe.
....Cotten
RE: "doing this successfully for longer than I've been alive"
Cough*gasp* Get my box ready children.. I'm fading... fast!
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Re: Clyinder Honing
Cotton - don't give the bastards the satisfaction by dying on us now... Thanks for the laugh...
It never ceases to amaze me as to how we're able to keep these infernal machines running - so glad they are forgiving of the ignorant and genius alike..
-J
It never ceases to amaze me as to how we're able to keep these infernal machines running - so glad they are forgiving of the ignorant and genius alike..
-J
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Re: Clyinder Honing
As per the Link to the Shovelhead Site...I would Never chuck a cylinder into the Lathe by the spigot or the inside of the bore with a 3-Jaw chuck. I bolt the Cyl to my torque plate and chuck it into the 4-Jaw Chuck!
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Re: Clyinder Honing
indianut - I could not agree more - I'm not a machinist and really only know enough to get myself in trouble. I don't have a 4 jaw yet but will before I do another set of cylinders..
Jason
Jason
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Re: Clyinder Honing
As for the ballhones--Like Cotton said, theres a place for everything!--I have used them sucessfully--first you dont want a brandy-new one-- I use the tourqueplate to bolt down in a Bridgeport vert. mill.-& dip the hone in clean tranny fluid-(red stuff). And only run it long enough to get a nice crosshatch!-DONE---usually less than 2 to 4 min.!---Wash everything down & Mic everything up. Depending on which piston manufacturer you use, This procedure usually is enuff!-----But silicone impregnated pistons require a little more finesse.---(Good-Luck to all)-58flh