Pushrod tool?

[Bigincher]

I know this has been discussed before, I remember reading it. I tried to find the old thread it was in, using the 'Search' feature, but no luck. So please forgive me as I ask it again---

Okay, when the valves and seats get ground so many times, or for whatever reason, the valve stem projection is great enough that solid pushrods often times will not just simply 'drop in place'. All it lacks for the pushrods to slip onto the tappet is a fraction of an inch--- maybe 1/16" or maybe 3/32".
I just had extensive motor work done, and head work too. New rocker shafts were installed, and the original blocks honed for fit. New valves and new seats installed too (please, that's another subject-- already covered). My motor guy decided on his own to use shovelhead valves without consulting me, but I know they are slightly larger diameter, so perhaps no issue there. My motor is a '52, which originally would use solid lifters with the hydraulic pushrods. I chose the S&S steel pushrods as a replacement--- the set has three shorter pushrods and one long one for the front exhaust.
Because of so many variables in the rework of the valve components, or for whatever reason, I am now discovering I am not able to simply drop those new pushrods in. It doesn't lack much, just a little.
My question is, what kind of tool are you guys using to coax the pushrods onto the lifter tappet? I looked for a Jim's tool, no luck-- maybe I'm not seeing it. I called Robbie, who I consider one of the very finest Harley mechanics on the planet today, and he told me that Harley actually made a tool specifically for this task, and described it for me. Anyone ever seen one, or one like it? What's the best way to get this done?
Many thanks, in advance---

[Frankenstein]

I just use an open end wrench, one that barely fits around the ball end. surround the ball, catch the edge of the tappet with the very end of the wrench, lift and let drop into the socket. I forget, 7/16" maybe. Experiment, not a genuine motor company tool, but will work with a little finesse.
DD

[Kuda]

As stated above, a small open end wrench works a treat, but my favorite so far is an old tuck-pointing tool I picked up a yard sale. It looks kinda like a thick screw driver but with the majority of the blade bent into a V shape. It's used for dressing up mortar joints on brick work, but with a bit of grinding it fits like a glove in the ball socket of the lifter (pushrod can't slip out 'cause of the V shape) and the long handle gives you lots of leverage to compress that valve spring a little...

-Kuda
'49 panchop

[JR JOHNSON]

hi,what frankenstein,kuda says will work, but i aways made sure the piston wasn't t.d.c. just make sure it's down a bit,not really sure if the valve kiss the piston WHEN YOU POP IT UP IN THE CUP? i'd never took that chance. have a good one.......WITH RESPECT.....JR

[Bigincher]

As stated above, a small open end wrench works a treat, but my favorite so far is an old tuck-pointing tool I picked up a yard sale. It looks kinda like a thick screw driver but with the majority of the blade bent into a V shape. It's used for dressing up mortar joints on brick work, but with a bit of grinding it fits like a glove in the ball socket of the lifter (pushrod can't slip out 'cause of the V shape) and the long handle gives you lots of leverage to compress that valve spring a little...

-Kuda
'49 panchop

Ahhh... now there's an idea. I know what a joint striker is, sounds like what you're describing. I've even got one laying around somewhere I think. I may give that a try. Thanks for the tip...!