Well upon pulling my top end down, I discovered quite a mix-n-match top end situation. I have a '63 FL with STD (outside oiler) heads, a '55 rear jug and a '48 front. Instead of drilling the oil hole in the 48 jug, the case was drilled to allow pre '55 style return in the front.
Although I would like to correct this, do you think its necessary? Drilling the cylinder is kind of a pain...
Also, whats the best way to stop internal oiling when using early jugs with late (outside oiler) heads?
Thanks,
Sean
Should I modify these jugs: quite a mix-n-match
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Re: Should I modify these jugs
Sean!
Your post is a little confusing, but I assume your front cylinder deck on the cases was drilled as commonly done for a stroker, with a corresponding hole in the cylinder's spigot.
As long as they drain, there is nothing to fix.
The most common way to stop up the feed is to tap the galleries at the deck for a set screw, and then cap over that with something hard like J-B Weld. Soft sealers are to be avoided as they will allow the gasket to "walk".
It has always been standard practice to install base gaskets dry, or only lightly greased with a true petroleum-based product. (Not disc brake grease!)
Your post is a little confusing, but I assume your front cylinder deck on the cases was drilled as commonly done for a stroker, with a corresponding hole in the cylinder's spigot.
As long as they drain, there is nothing to fix.
The most common way to stop up the feed is to tap the galleries at the deck for a set screw, and then cap over that with something hard like J-B Weld. Soft sealers are to be avoided as they will allow the gasket to "walk".
It has always been standard practice to install base gaskets dry, or only lightly greased with a true petroleum-based product. (Not disc brake grease!)
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Re: Should I modify these jugs
Aug 22, 2005, 4:36am, Cotten wrote:
Sean!
Your post is a little confusing...
As long as they drain, there is nothing to fix...
I was afraid of that.
What I have on the front is a pre-55 jug, so it returns oil thru the base and into the case. It lacks the hole in the cylinder to let the oil return into the cylinder, lubricating the rings, before it drains into the case.
refer to Clymer page 160 if you have one handy...
The previous owner drilled a hole in the case to let it drain like a 48-54 would instead of drilling the cylinder as he should have.
Both cylinders are pre-63 so they have internal oil feeds. Not wise with outside oiling heads (too much of a good thing)
I think the easy solution is to use a shovelhead base gaskets to block off the feeds and returns and have the front cylinder drilled to return as it should for a '63
I hope this clears it up a bit.
Sean
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Re: Should I modify these jugs
Sean!
Any Clymer manual in my shop would have been used for worse than toilet paper long ago.
Your description of a hole drilled into the case suggests the 'stroker' drain I referred to.
If I can describe better: a hole is drilled downward into the case, and then a hole is drilled sideways to allow it into the flywheel cavity. The spigot of the cylinder would block it, so a hole is drilled sideways though it. This is outlined in detail in most S&S literature.
Where the oil drains is not as important as that it drains.
Please post again if I did not make sense. I rarely do. (Just ask my wife.)
Any Clymer manual in my shop would have been used for worse than toilet paper long ago.
Your description of a hole drilled into the case suggests the 'stroker' drain I referred to.
If I can describe better: a hole is drilled downward into the case, and then a hole is drilled sideways to allow it into the flywheel cavity. The spigot of the cylinder would block it, so a hole is drilled sideways though it. This is outlined in detail in most S&S literature.
Where the oil drains is not as important as that it drains.
Please post again if I did not make sense. I rarely do. (Just ask my wife.)