Pushrod cork change-out
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Pushrod cork change-out
Just replaced the (3) corks per push rod on my Pan. Solid Lifter set-up, not hydraulic. Can explain in brief. Somebody has to ask me though.
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Re: Pushrod cork change-out
I run solid lifters because there are less parts to wonder about. The procedure we use is posted over on "Technical Issues".
Re: Pushrod cork change-out
Check out flo headworks on the net the have a very good reason to stay away from solid lifters. i ran them for awhile and burned my valves on a 63 stock pan
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Re: Pushrod cork change-out
Thanks for the link to the http://www.floheadworks.com site. I read through the Panhead article and then went to find something specific written as to why solid lifter or solid lifter conversions may burn valves, but couldn't locate anything on that site. I can appreciate your not wanting to run solids after you say they contributed to a set of burned valves. My only experience with the solid lifter conversion is that I have at least 30 thousand miles on a set of OEM Pan heads that have leaking worn spigots, leaking threaded spark plug holes, stripped out "D" ring holes, are Rat-flithy, but still on the job. My conversion cups are glued with Loctite 640 (green), (not heavier J-B Weld) into the tappet bodies, without using the springs. Not my procedure; Stetts'. This prevents the cups from turning in the tappet body, which could alter your pushrod setting as the motor runs. I position the tappet at it's lowest position, before I adjust the pushrod. I only allow a pushrod setting that I can turn with one finger and have ab-so-loutely no drag what-so-ever, not even a blip of drag, and I double check each pushrod adjustment after I have finished with the set of four. Yes, the aluminum heads expand, which would make the pushrods have a greater lash than when you set them cold, but wouldn't that make the pushrod train noiser when the motors hot? If so, and I think so, how could that keep a valve from closing? One thing I've learned is that nobody knows it all, and if you're lucky, you can learn something every day (hopefully without costing you a wad of money). If you know where a written report of "solid lifter warnings" are, could you please direct us to the (site) place exactly?
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Re: Pushrod cork change-out
Your right on the money VT! 16 years of trouble free solid lifters makes a believer. Besides, I like hearing the sound of my valve train. I have never ran intake valve oilers. Do you run em?
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Re: Pushrod cork change-out
hello,I have also run solids for 20,000 miles and no problems. I adjust the exhaust every 1000 ,intake about 2000 and problems from this. I set them up as V.T. does work good. Used to run siftons ,they were loose in the lifter bores 20000 miles ago, at 14500 I went .005 over and went to jims, as sifton was in bankruptcy at that time :-/ but all is well.
Mbskeam
Mbskeam
Re: Pushrod cork change-out
Mbskeam, question, you said you set your pushrods to "0" clearance/free spin, when it's HOT??
Is that what you meant??
V T, ALL motor components expand under operating temperature..
They just do it at different times due to their composition
including 'pushrods'. & some expand more than others/like Aluminum..
Is that what you meant??
V T, ALL motor components expand under operating temperature..
They just do it at different times due to their composition
including 'pushrods'. & some expand more than others/like Aluminum..
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Re: Pushrod cork change-out
I did the same with mine V.T. also removed the tappet blocks to sandblast and powder coat.(they were a mess) replaced the tappet gaskets while I was at it.
Now if I can remember the procedure to readjust the push rods...(solids)???
Now if I can remember the procedure to readjust the push rods...(solids)???
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Re: Pushrod cork change-out
I run both.
Good things about solids:
Cheap!
Easy!
Many performance cams demand them.
Bad things about solids:
They limit the life of modern needled tappet rollers, and a failure is catastrophic.
Good things about hydraulics:
Low maintenance.
They let you know if you are out of oil quickly.
They are gentle upon rockers, rollers and cams.
Bad things about hydraulics:
Expensive.
Expensive.
Expensive.
Good things about solids:
Cheap!
Easy!
Many performance cams demand them.
Bad things about solids:
They limit the life of modern needled tappet rollers, and a failure is catastrophic.
Good things about hydraulics:
Low maintenance.
They let you know if you are out of oil quickly.
They are gentle upon rockers, rollers and cams.
Bad things about hydraulics:
Expensive.
Expensive.
Expensive.
Re: Pushrod cork change-out
I have NEVER heard of anyone adjusting solids with a HOT motor to "0" lash free spin ..???
Mbskeam & V T , IS this what you're saying ?
Mbskeam & V T , IS this what you're saying ?
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Re: Pushrod cork change-out
hello, I do it cold , with a slight drag on pushrod. tried doing it warm once, and this made it run like crap, I was trying something new." If it aint broke dont fix it"
I have had solids for 10 plus years and no problems
Mbskeam
I have had solids for 10 plus years and no problems
Mbskeam
Re: Pushrod cork change-out
Hello back,
I do them all cold. I thought it was said a few back, believe it was V T, that said he adjusts them w/hot motor?? I was curious about that statement.. I just re-read it & he talks about the expansion & the bigger lash.
Setting them to '0' hot & after it is cold the valves can't
fully close as the motor has contracted.
I am no stranger to solids either.
I do them all cold. I thought it was said a few back, believe it was V T, that said he adjusts them w/hot motor?? I was curious about that statement.. I just re-read it & he talks about the expansion & the bigger lash.
Setting them to '0' hot & after it is cold the valves can't
fully close as the motor has contracted.
I am no stranger to solids either.