Solid vs Hydraulic lifters

[Cooie]

Looking for some assistance with my lifters, I believe this is a solid lifter kit in my 59 Panhead, I would like to revert to hydraulic lifters. the bike will be a daily runner with hack, am I heading in the right direction. I have a stock motor with STD heads and will fit a mild cam. Should I stick with hydraulics in the 59 or should I leave the solids?

[old.wrench]

Cooie,
Nothing wrong with running solids as long as all the components are in good shape, and you're up for doing routine maintenance.
If you decide to go with hydraulic lifters, make sure that your cam is compatible and suited to your needs.
Hydraulic lifters and a stock "H" grind cam make for a motor with nice low end performance and torque which would be a good thing since you plan on dragging a hack. I'm sure you'll get plenty of other advice here!

Geo.

[Excalibur]

I prefer hydraulics because they're nil maintenance and they're quiet. Personally I'd only fit solids for competition work like I did for my Superglide. I'd happily drop the solids in for the days drag racing. After that I'd put the hydraulics back in at the first available opportunity.

[Cooie]

Thanks for the replies, I am thinking quiet and less maintenance for me. Can you tell me what I have to replace - do I just buy new lifters or do I have to buy the pushrods as well?

[jbuliwyf]

I had the same setup you have. I replaced the solid insert with crane hyd tappets. Make sure the oil hole on the lifter is facing correct.

[Cooie]

Thanks, I will line up the oil galleries

[58flh]

COOI---If you look closely at the solid-incert you have pictured//My PC shows a crack running down on the bottom half//Also on the Pushrod ADJ.-TIT there seems to be METAL stuck to the oil!//I would pull the cam cover off & see whats going on!--You may have more then just top-end to deal with.Also if you take any of your P-rods you will see HOW MUCH they actually bend!when ALUM.--It was luck that one didnt shoot thru the tibe or just Frag at the ADJ.s!--ALUM. is no good for SOLID TAPPETS!.Dont just drop your new HYD-units in!--The cover must come off!--You may have a cam that needs clearing & it rubbed on IDLER gear or WORSE yet the inner lobe on the case!.Patience & Detection of what cam is in her is a MUST!.I have to say that To crack one of those inserts /you really have to BEAT that mill up bad /more then once!.& the loose metal stuck on the ADJ. Raises some RED-FLAGS!.PULL a cyld. or both & see if it got to the pistons!--You will know instantly by the gouges on the thrust surfaces.----Respectfully---RICHIE///FIND out what CAM is in the motor!

[58flh]

Cooi---If all checks out & you dont have to split her up--Before just dropping in the HYD-Units---Check all guide to Tappet clearence--(it should be no more then .0015!).Also since it has been running with the SOLIDS YOU SHOULD change the WHEELS!-(MATTER of fact CHANGE THEM!).There the weaklink & I change mine every 2yrs.NEEDED or NOT!.But I run SOLIDS!.You have mentioned about a CAM!--As was STATED with those STD heads w/shovel ports//The FLH cam will do wonders on for that on a daily run machine!--Also the CRANE 296-A, & Crane-300H are very nice All these cams will start easy & have ALOT of BOTTOM to them as well as MID & to 5000RPMs--Which I doubt that you will ever be going with the Hack!.The Advantage of having your STD heads is YOU need make no mods to the HEADS!--JUST get the KIT/Springs collars & locs/thrust washers (IF NEEDED)-will be in the box.USE Steel-P-RODS /even thiugh you dont have to with HYD.-Tappets!--You see those circular marks halfway up the ALUM. P-Rods that came out!--That how much they FLEX when running!-Those marks are from rubbing the outer tubes!.You would think they be UP & DOWN!--But P-Rods spin while running/hence the circular pattern!.With cam-cover off run a small but strong Magnet & see how much of that is steel//The rest will be ALUM.YOU HAVE to also pull the oil-pump as IF you find metal in there /Then YOU will have to split the cases & find what went wrong!--IT could be ANYTHING!/OLNY a look-see can give you piece of mind!.IF the OILpump is clean!--TAKE the oiltank off & clean it VIGOISLY with KERROSINE!.IF you have oilfilter /TAKE it apart & Run a magnet theu the pleating.YOU should find crud but not metal!--If there is metal/Your motor needs an overhaul.I think that most of the crap will be ALUM.-And that would lead to lower bering CAGES maybe put together by GUESSING,by a backyard hack! .I seen it done 2X to the same motor/which both had seizure!.I went over the motor abot 5yrs. ago & IT took ALOT of BOILING to get all the chips out of it!/I took it to a Speedshop after a 4-day of boiling/& Had them Hot-tank her for 48hrs.Then I felt comfy to start working on it!--He rides it daily ever since!.Remember PATIENCE & TIME NOW =s to many Smiles of FUN!---Respectfully----Richie

[Cooie]

Thanks Richie - there is a bit of crud on the end of the lifter but it is from sitting on my workbench for a couple of weeks.
Thanks for taking the time to have a close look at the pics thou and I certainly double checked. There are no cracks in the pushrod or lifter block - again I checked these again and I think it was the photo angle and I wrote on the lifter block to identify its position. I have taken some more pics and will add them to this post.
As you suggested I pulled the cam and there are no markings, so I presume it is an FL cam, so I have decided to run with the Crane 300H - hence the questions about solid lifters.
I have pulled the cover and it seems to be clean in the gears, but I like your idea of the magnet and I have a magnet from an industrial lifting magnet so I will run this through the gears to be sure - this advice is first class - thanks again. The oil tank is new and i did flush it and added new oil, this oil has only been run for a couple of start ups so everything is clean.
I have been looking at the wheels and I will take your advice and change them out, I have already been scrolling online shops for these.
Most of the marks seem to be on the adjustable part of the pushrods from vice grips or similar again I have added some pics.
I will look at the steel pushrods as maybe it is best I replace these as well as I will fit new rocker arms as well and they can all bed in together.
I am going to visit a machinist today so I will ask him to check the tolerances on the lifter blocks thanks for the tip here.
I will also check the oil pump internally, I have checked the ball valve and tappet screen already - all is clean and clear but as you say better to double check now and I have not had the cover off.
The idler gear and cam gear looks fine although the mesh is a little second rate, I will look to replace it.
Thanks again for all the advice, I cant tell you how much it is appreciated.

[Cooie]

I called on the machine shop today and had the ID of the tappet block measured vs the OD of the tappet - there is .018 - .022 clearance. I am guessing these will require new oversize tappets and hone the blocks. There are also some gouges on the tappets. I would post some pics but I left the blocks etc at the machine shop. Again I am concerned with the quality of tappets out there, I have searched Crane but most suppliers are out of stock so I wonder if they have ceased production of their tappets.
Jims are readily available, but pricey but I would rather take longer to build the motor than have components fail.
Any other brand suggestions would be appreciated.

[bigbox]

Try talking to Rollies in Brisbane, sometimes they can help you out

[Cooie]

Thanks but Rollie is a wholesaler these days, last time I was in his shop I was the only customer there and stood there for 15 minutes and no one came near me, I asked one guy for assistance and he told me he would be with me soon, but there was no rush - to put it bluntly I won't go back.

[bigbox]

Sorry to hear that, I have only dealt with them on line and by phone, so I don't have that customer experience. If your prepared to wait and want OEM items you can alway try Jan Boon from the Netherlands, although more expensive because of the exchange rate.
Regards

[Cooie]

Thanks for that, someone else advised Jan Boon, I will google them. It seems there are a lot of issues with Asian made valve train gear, so best to check all avenues and buy the decent gear. And yeah the exchange rate is a killer at the moment and doesn't look like getting any better for quiet a while.
Cheers - Cooie

[panhead]

http://www.jwboon.nl/