Hydraulic Lifters

Top End (cylinders pushrods etc.)
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Pan58
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Hydraulic Lifters

#1

Post by Pan58 »

Morning everybody

1958 FLH:
How are hydraulic lifters assembled, and is it possible to disassemble for inspection and cleaning them?

Happy New Year to all of you

Pan58
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Re: Hydraulic Lifters

#2

Post by 58flh »

P-58---Yes you can disassemble HYD. lifters.(Be sure the same parts go back to the same lifter.).Clean them very good using a small brush & carb. cleaner-& you also can use pipe cleaners!,Just make sure none of the white linen is left in.Use a compresser to blowdry them.Now you can use a eyeloupe ,if your eyes are bad,& check for any obstructions on the pump-up wall of lifter.-I use a pinpoint scraper & just drag it lightly & make sure there are no snags!.T ake a good look thru the hole & again it should be smooth & no burrs-(Im saying burrs as I olny once came across one in all my time going thru HYDS.).The disc should be flat ,that's a nobrainer.Now measure the guide-walls,I like to take a few readings on each using a telescoping gage & a mic.--Then measure the OD on the lifter for that guide.It must fall into specs.As a loose wall to lifter fit will lower your oil-volume being fed.& the fronts start to tick.Go by the specs. of the manufacturer suggests for iron-guides or Alum. guides.Pull the Slotted brass-screw on top & clean-out the witches-hat!--(its up to you if you want to use a hat or not!-(I recommend using one)--I have seen guys discard them & have no issues!-The ticking actually went away!.Put them back together & ADJ. everything -& light her up--It may take 30-40 seconds for the taping to stop in this cold weather!-But if your in the south They will quiet quickly.--I hope this helps some---Respectfully---RICHIE
Pan58
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Re: Hydraulic Lifters

#3

Post by Pan58 »

Hi Richie

Thanks for your answer. Sorry, just to make shure I mean this part: I checked the parts manual, they call it "hydraulic unit"
Hyd Lifter.jpg
How to disassemble this unit?

Thanks Pan58
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Last edited by Pan58 on Tue Dec 30, 2014 1:53 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Hydraulic Lifters

#4

Post by Gotnoclass »

Just pull it out. Sometimes they bind on the spring
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Re: Hydraulic Lifters

#5

Post by Pan58 »

Thank you Gotnoclass, the tip(trick) with the spring was the solution. I have now two parts:
Lifter Unit.jpg
The "cylinder" on the left and the "piston" with spring on the right. But inside the cylinder there is still the checkvalve. Any chance to disassemble? or is this checkvalve pressed in?
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Re: Hydraulic Lifters

#6

Post by RUBONE »

The check ball is not meant to be disassembled from the body of the lifter. Flush it with cleaner and blow dry with compressed air. When assembling the upper portion to the lower unit a toothpick can be used to unseat the ball and allow the upper unit to easily slide into the lower. Do all the pushrod adjustment with clean, dry units. You will probably want to kick the engine through (plugs out) to get oil to them after adjustment to prevent clatter at initial startup.
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Re: Hydraulic Lifters

#7

Post by Gotnoclass »

Use carb cleaner with the straw nozzle, then compressed air to dry.
Robbie's tips are like the holy bible. I would follow religiously if I were you!
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Re: Hydraulic Lifters

#8

Post by Pan58 »

Talking about Hydraulich Lifters:
anybody exprience with hydraulic to solid conversion kits? Which one to use?

this one, J&P part# 431-552
Solid Lifters.jpg
or this one, J&P part# 432-394
Adjustable Hydraulic Lifter Conversion.jpg
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Re: Hydraulic Lifters

#9

Post by RUBONE »

I've always preferred the type like you show for J&P (old Sifton style) since they are much easier to install pushrods in due to the shallow lower cup. The option you don't show is to use '48-'52 type lifters and solid pushrods.
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Re: Hydraulic Lifters

#10

Post by Pan58 »

sorry Rubone, by "old Sifton style" you mean part# 432-394, the lower picture?



and by 48-52 style you mean these lifters?
48-52 solid lifters.jpg
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Re: Hydraulic Lifters

#11

Post by RUBONE »

That is correct, the lower of the first pictures or the one piece units in the new picture. Any time you can eliminate an extra piece there is less chance of noise, false readings on adjustment, etc.
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