Solid Lifters Tappet Body to Tappet Cups (Loctite)

[gilb]

In Kirk Perry's book Mechanic & Owners Guide 41-59, he states to not use the springs between the body & top, but to glue them together with a couple drops of Loctite. He says if you use the spirngs it will rotate the tappet cups, changing the valve lash. Has anyone done this or know what kind of loctite he is referring to? I have a 53 Pan with solid lifters. Thanks

[1950Panhead]

If he is refering to the spring in the hydraulic lifter I think he is nuts.
Jerry

[Cotten]

In Kirk Perry's book Mechanic & Owners Guide 41-59, he states to not use the springs between the body & top, but to glue them together with a couple drops of Loctite. He says if you use the spirngs it will rotate the tappet cups, changing the valve lash. Has anyone done this or know what kind of loctite he is referring to? I have a 53 Pan with solid lifters. Thanks

gilb!

Kirk is no longer on this forum to reply,
And I do not have his pamphlet,
but my first guess is that he is suggesting Loctite to take up the slop of the "solid" into the tappet.
The MOCO even resorted to that with hydraulic units, presumeably because quality control was beyond their reach.

Although a band-aid, it may be better than nothing if clearances are extreme.

Eliminating the nonsense springs in solid replacement kits is just.. common sense.
The real mystery is why the gimmick was marketed in the first place.

....Cotten

[RUBONE]

Many of the aftermarket solid lifter adapters were an insert that dropped into the tappet body. They had a spring to maintain tension on the pushrod after heat expansion allowed some clearance to occur. Removing the spring and gluing the unit in is fine, however like many things in that book, the reasons are merely one persons opinion and not always derived through experience.
If glued in place only one surface can have clearance at the pushrod end, not two with the floating adapter. Many thousands of those kits have been sold and used over the years, with no ill effects from not being glued. Either way will work.

[58flh]

I gan tell you what works for me!--As Robbie stated Both ways will work,no ill effects.I have had them both ways,& I prefer -(hard in the cup,no movement!).As for the Goober I use Hi-temp. Loctite,& have seen the Blue work without a problem.Question your Riding Preferance??--I dont mind Poping tubes Everyweek & rolling her over for a LOOK-SEE!--10min& im out!---You have to take measures if running a SOLID-TAPPET---Almost everytime I look at a bike,, I have to say, The owner should of left the HYD.-Tappet in to beginwith!& would be enjoying the machine instead of fiddling!---I personaly Always have ran Solids,As i give the machine preventive checkovers. If you just want to start & run,The HYD. will suit your flavor,If you Like to Fiddle As I do--Maybe Solids are to your Liking?Do what fits your style best,& most of all have fun with it.-----Respectfully--Richie

[Cotten]

The problem with the springs, Folks,...

Is that the spring confounds your feel for adjustment.
If it is not causing its own drag upon the pushrod when turned, then it has no function anyway.

They fatigue easily, leading to even more difficult feel for the pushrod's true adjustment, and variance among them.
If the 'slug' is extended by the spring to take up slack, it introduces wobble from the poor fit within the tappet, which is why potting them in with Loctite is suggested in the first place, bottomed out where they cannot wobble.

One of the reasons for solids in a performance machine is to lighten the valvetrain.
Why add idiot springs?

....Cotten

[gilb]

Thanks for everyone's input, I appreciate it.

Richie, on the blue hi temp loctite, is that the RTV silicone one? Do you need to wait 24 hours before firing?

Thanks Gilb

[58flh]

Gilb--No SILICONE in the cup!---The Loctite I use is Grey & the HI-TEMPERTURE on the package!,As I said the Blue works good also,I just like the added ins.--it will never reach the Max. temp for the BLUE!--The motor would be long-gone way before it got close!---So Eighther will work!---Parts Clean & Wiped down with ALCOHOL!--SQUEAKY CLEAN,--The bottom of the cup I take a SMOOTH FILE & just run the Edge of file All around the circumference of the cup!--All springs or loose parts have no use hear!--(when using file--make 1/32 slits all around the bottom & make-sure no sharp edges)--Apply Loctite & sit the cup inside the tappet & let fry more then 24-hours--I let mine sit longer -(2-days)-as I put loctite to come -up about 3/32 by eye!--The file is the same effect as scuffibng for a paintjob!--Nothing smooth where it sits ,It needs somthing to GRAB TO. Use steel pushrods & make-sure that the ADJ. end Fits inside the cup EASY!& smoothly rotates -(no burrs!)-Same for the Rockerarm!--Makesure it fits it seat CORRECTLY!-You would be surprised at what I have found in some motors! .As for silicone --It will just end-up in the oilpassages!/possibly BLOCKING 1 or TRDUCING FLOW CONSIDERABLY!.---Good-LUCK----RICHIE