Aftermarket air filter element for Linkert M35
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2005 1:53 am
- Bikes: 1951 Fl
- Location: Wasilla, Alaska
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 8 times
Aftermarket air filter element for Linkert M35
My 51Fl uses a Linkert model M 35. The air cleaner element is Harley part number 29036-41, a metal fiber that needs to be oiled.
I would like to find a paper filter to replace the metal fiber element and still keep the original J slot cleaner cover.
Anyone have a part number for an aftermarket air cleaner element that will do the trick?
Dale
I would like to find a paper filter to replace the metal fiber element and still keep the original J slot cleaner cover.
Anyone have a part number for an aftermarket air cleaner element that will do the trick?
Dale
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6938
- Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2002 2:30 am
- Bikes: -
- Location: Central Illinois
- Has thanked: 112 times
- Been thanked: 310 times
An engineered adaptation is available at http://www.oldiron.net/prod-kafilter.php
...Cotten
PS: Although the M35 was not issued for your machine, all Linkerts will accept the same airfilter backplates.
Check out Old Iron's 'velocity cone' as well!
...Cotten
PS: Although the M35 was not issued for your machine, all Linkerts will accept the same airfilter backplates.
Check out Old Iron's 'velocity cone' as well!
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6938
- Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2002 2:30 am
- Bikes: -
- Location: Central Illinois
- Has thanked: 112 times
- Been thanked: 310 times
I used to carve such things back in the '80s. Commercially produced versions for modern carbs have been around for years. S&S has a cone built into their signature aircleaner backing plates.
The effect is minimal but real; Anyone who has played with a flowbench knows that just putting a ring of modeling clay around an aperture will smooth out turbulence that robs a couple of cfm. (At WFO, anyway.)
....Cotten
PS: That M35 would honk on modern hiqhways a little better with a larger venturi as well.
The effect is minimal but real; Anyone who has played with a flowbench knows that just putting a ring of modeling clay around an aperture will smooth out turbulence that robs a couple of cfm. (At WFO, anyway.)
....Cotten
PS: That M35 would honk on modern hiqhways a little better with a larger venturi as well.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2005 1:53 am
- Bikes: 1951 Fl
- Location: Wasilla, Alaska
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 8 times
I believe that my 51FL is supposed to run an M74?
Will there be a big difference when I install one? (Between the M35 and the M74?)
More air-More fuel-More Power? Will fuel consumption change?
I have not checked mpg yet, but the old gal seems to be using a lot of fuel.
I did pressure test the Plumber manifold, nipples, rivets, heads and cover holes above the intake ports for leaks, and checked the carb over well.
venturi is not loose, and I see no dalight around it. Butterfly shaft and bushings have very little slop. no groove cut by the butterfly. Butterfly can seal totally without letting dalight through. Passages are clean. Resurfaced the carb flange and manifold flange.
I am still having a problem.
Engine cold- Idle set great, engine misses.
As engine warms up, miss goes away
Engine operating temp- Idle boosts significantly. (Vacuum leak only when warm???) engine is smooth.
Per FSM, Timing is set dead on, timer bushings are good.
Engine runs VERY slowly at timer full retarded position, but does not die.
Plugs are new.
Points and condenser are new.
Battery is charged.
Coil and plug wires spark well.
Check plugs after 20 mile ride--Front = dry black soot.
Rear = Rust-Tan
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Dale
Will there be a big difference when I install one? (Between the M35 and the M74?)
More air-More fuel-More Power? Will fuel consumption change?
I have not checked mpg yet, but the old gal seems to be using a lot of fuel.
I did pressure test the Plumber manifold, nipples, rivets, heads and cover holes above the intake ports for leaks, and checked the carb over well.
venturi is not loose, and I see no dalight around it. Butterfly shaft and bushings have very little slop. no groove cut by the butterfly. Butterfly can seal totally without letting dalight through. Passages are clean. Resurfaced the carb flange and manifold flange.
I am still having a problem.
Engine cold- Idle set great, engine misses.
As engine warms up, miss goes away
Engine operating temp- Idle boosts significantly. (Vacuum leak only when warm???) engine is smooth.
Per FSM, Timing is set dead on, timer bushings are good.
Engine runs VERY slowly at timer full retarded position, but does not die.
Plugs are new.
Points and condenser are new.
Battery is charged.
Coil and plug wires spark well.
Check plugs after 20 mile ride--Front = dry black soot.
Rear = Rust-Tan
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Dale
-
- Inactive member
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1401
- Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2004 5:54 am
- Bikes: -
- Location: north florida
- Been thanked: 7 times
51hog
I think all these old motors run funny when cold , what I mean is , they sometimes pop and sputter and then as they warm they do have an in crease in idle , its pretty normal and if you are running hyd. it seems to be a little rougher untill warmed . As far as motor running slower when manualy retarded , thats what the manual says is a properly adj. carb. , I believe it says , when warmed up to operating temp. engine should still idle in retarded possition ,but will be slower.
My Linkert will not idle when cold ,it takes a few for it to idle correctly and I like a little higher idle then most feel it should , I had a guy at the local watering hole stand behind me the other day and when I turned around to look , he said I just want to here it idle , I told him I have her set a little higher that he probably thought it should be , his answer was " still sounds good".
How does she run on the open road?
I think all these old motors run funny when cold , what I mean is , they sometimes pop and sputter and then as they warm they do have an in crease in idle , its pretty normal and if you are running hyd. it seems to be a little rougher untill warmed . As far as motor running slower when manualy retarded , thats what the manual says is a properly adj. carb. , I believe it says , when warmed up to operating temp. engine should still idle in retarded possition ,but will be slower.
My Linkert will not idle when cold ,it takes a few for it to idle correctly and I like a little higher idle then most feel it should , I had a guy at the local watering hole stand behind me the other day and when I turned around to look , he said I just want to here it idle , I told him I have her set a little higher that he probably thought it should be , his answer was " still sounds good".
How does she run on the open road?
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2005 1:53 am
- Bikes: 1951 Fl
- Location: Wasilla, Alaska
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 8 times
Yea---These old bikes do sound great while idling. Too bad they don't oil well when they are retarded doing the lumpity-lump--lumpity-lump....
She runs great on the highway, but I still don't think that I quite have her dialed in though.
3 gals of gas in 81 open road miles. Spotted soot on front plug- Rusty brown color on rear plug.
I am backing down the high speed needle two clicks at a time between 20 mile runs to see if I can clean up the front plug and lighten up the rear a little. I don't think that they will end up burning the same.
She runs great on the highway, but I still don't think that I quite have her dialed in though.
3 gals of gas in 81 open road miles. Spotted soot on front plug- Rusty brown color on rear plug.
I am backing down the high speed needle two clicks at a time between 20 mile runs to see if I can clean up the front plug and lighten up the rear a little. I don't think that they will end up burning the same.
-
- Inactive member
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1401
- Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2004 5:54 am
- Bikes: -
- Location: north florida
- Been thanked: 7 times