Love'n the Linkert so far.

[Ohio-Rider]

I finally swapped out the S&S I'd been running for the past eight years for a M74B and thought I'd post a few of my assembly and performance observations between the two for those who may be considering doing the same.

First let me say that installing the 27029-55 manifold is a breeze compared to installing the much longer S&S manifold. I can't explain why but it sealed right up with minimal pressure on the clamps, where as the S&S was always troublesome to get a good seal. I was pleasantly surprised that the 27431-41 carb support from Colony fit perfectly with out any tweeking. The toughest part of the swap was bending a new fuel line.

After only about fifty miles of riding, the performance differences between the two carbs is quite noticeable. The Linkert is a lot smoother from a dead stop. It just doesn't seem to pull as hard out of the hole as the S&S did. At my age that's not so important any more anyway. Another noticeable difference is that the Linkert doesn't seem to lug the engine as much at lower speeds or when going up hills. Once the bike reaches 40mph there don't seem to be any noticeable differences between the two carbs.

I would sum it up this way; The Linkert is a great old mans carb but if you enjoy light to light performance stick with the S&S. I'll report back later on my thoughts about which is better for kick starting. Its only been two days but I'm loving this Linkert. -Steve

[john HD]

steve,

follow the book on the low speed adjustment. when i switched from a CV to my m-74B i found keeping the low speed on the lean side helps hot starts quite a bit. even a couple of clicks to rich can make hot starts vexing.

if you can fully retard the engine when it is hot and still maintain idle you know you have it correct. the high speed needle is basically just a very fine adjustment. i think cotten calls them a "denver jet" only needed to adjust for altitude.

overall i am very happy with my linkert, i think i get more top end than the CV. my theory is that the stock 74 does not create enough vaccum to fully open the slide. but that is another story.

right now i am dialing in my m-88 on my freshly restored wla, the low speed was a snap. the high speed i am still fiddling with because my carb was modified from a fixed jet to an adjustable needle with what appears to be an indian needle. i may change it back to the fixed jet set up if i need to.

john

[Ohio-Rider]

My WL also came to me with the adjustable high speed(ha ha) needle. I set mine by finding a nice flat road that I could maintain a speed of 50mph and then fiddling with the needle while at speed, if you listen real close you can hear the differance in the engine, but Cotten is right, there is no performance diferance.
So how are you liking your new wla? -Steve

[john HD]

steve,

i am having fun with the wla. i have never had much experiance with them, it is the easiest starting harley i have ever seen.

i was kicking it sunday and i think i could start it by hand!

once underway it is very comfortable, i was unsure about the forward seating position with the short seat T but it seems like a nice fit for me.

we have a local rally this weekend, looking forward to getting some miles on it!

john

[Ohio-Rider]

These little 45's really are something. Not only easy starting but reliable as well. Between me and my youngest daughter mine gets the snot run out of it and never misses a beat.

[Cotten]

My WL also came to me with the adjustable high speed(ha ha) needle. I set mine by finding a nice flat road that I could maintain a speed of 50mph and then fiddling with the needle while at speed, if you listen real close you can hear the differance in the engine, but Cotten is right, there is no performance diferance.
So how are you liking your new wla? -Steve

Steve!

I said what?

The HS on an M74B lacks sensitivity by nature, but others should react noticeably over a range of few clicks.
(The lag in time required to show effect varies, and can cause confusion.)

And John!
If your HS knob is a small one like shown on this M344, it is indeed a late Indian design, but should work fine as long as it can bottom out.

344B.jpg

...Cotten

[Ohio-Rider]

Sorry if I miss quoted you Tom. It was a few years back that you helped me out with advise on my M88 and I'm afraid my memory is slipping abit. At least thats what everyone has been telling me lately.

Good thing you jumped in here. No telling how many people I'd of had scrathing their heads.

[1450]

I finally swapped out the S&S I’d been running for the past eight years for a M74B and thought I’d post a few of my assembly and performance observations between the two for those who may be considering doing the same.

First let me say that installing the 27029-55 manifold is a breeze compared to installing the much longer S&S manifold. I can’t explain why but it sealed right up with minimal pressure on the clamps, where as the S&S was always troublesome to get a good seal. I was pleasantly surprised that the 27431-41 carb support from Colony fit perfectly with out any tweeking. The toughest part of the swap was bending a new fuel line.

After only about fifty miles of riding, the performance differences between the two carbs is quite noticeable. The Linkert is a lot smoother from a dead stop. It just doesn’t seem to pull as hard out of the hole as the S&S did. At my age that’s not so important any more anyway. Another noticeable difference is that the Linkert doesn’t seem to lug the engine as much at lower speeds or when going up hills. Once the bike reaches 40mph there don’t seem to be any noticeable differences between the two carbs.

I would sum it up this way; The Linkert is a great old mans carb but if you enjoy light to light performance stick with the S&S. I’ll report back later on my thoughts about which is better for kick starting. Its only been two days but I’m loving this Linkert. -Steve

i like to change my S&S to aM74 I have, can we have some pic. thx

[Ohio-Rider]

1450, I can post some photo's later today.
Here is a list of things I needed for the swap.

1)- Intake manifold and rubber bands or o-rings with clamps.
2)- Upper motor mount with choke lever bracket.
3)- Choke lever assembly.
4)- PUSH spiral for throttle control and solid control wire.
5)- Throttle control coil clamp.
6)- Carb support bracket.
7)- New fuel line.
-Air Cleaner

Everything went together for me in a couple hours. I just loosely bolted everything together, then removed the carb to pressure test and tightened the manifold clamps.The upper motor mount I used was the only after market part I used and didn't have the choke lever bracket in the correct location so some fitting of the choke lever rod was needed. Everything else bolted right up nice and easy.

[Sir_Rat]

If u take that "Old Mans" carb to someone who knows what they are doing...you won't be calling it an old mans carb anymore. A tricked out linkert is more than a match for an S&S

In my opinion that iz
Aloha Peeps

Funny aint it..how we all have our favorite carbs and how whats garbage for me might be the hot set -up for you. When i read between the lines here, I get the general Idea that..just about any carb will work as long as its in good working condition and that probably for alot of us when we have problems with a carb will try a different type, and when the problem goes away we will then deem the last carb brand as "no good" when in actuality the carb probably only need to be returned to good working condition...

[1450]

1450, I can post some photo’s later today.
Here is a list of things I needed for the swap.

1)- Intake manifold and rubber bands or o-rings with clamps.
2)- Upper motor mount with choke lever bracket.
3)- Choke lever assembly.
4)- PUSH spiral for throttle control and solid control wire.
5)- Throttle control coil clamp.
6)- Carb support bracket.
7)- New fuel line.
-Air Cleaner

Everything went together for me in a couple hours. I just loosely bolted everything together, then removed the carb to pressure test and tightened the manifold clamps.The upper motor mount I used was the only after market part I used and didn’t have the choke lever bracket in the correct location so some fitting of the choke lever rod was needed. Everything else bolted right up nice and easy.

thx. can i get #4 on your list for ape hargers ? i have the rest . it all came with the bike 57 pan

[NightShift]

If u take that "Old Mans" carb to someone who knows what they are doing...you won't be calling it an old mans carb anymore. A tricked out linkert is more than a match for an S&S

In my opinion that iz :D
Aloha Peeps

Dear Peeps,
Do you know any one who knows what they are doing who can tell us how to trick one out?

Even if it destroys it I dont care,

Honest,

[Ohio-Rider]

1450, I'm the wrong guy to ask about the use of throttle spirals being used with ape hangers but I'm sure that with some imagination some solution could be found. Maybe someone else around here could be of more help to ya with that question. I'm sure it has probably been done before. Steve

[Cotten]

1450!

Nearly all aftermarket bars are made for a common "quick throttle" that slips over the end of the bar, and uses an external cable.

To reverse the direction of the cable for a Linkert,
a simple (and cheap) bell-crank and a spring-return anchor bracket bolts on. Often it is called a "turn-around", and most catalogs offer them reasonably. Or at least they used to... (Sorry I haven't a pic handy yet.)

....Cotten

[john HD]

the throttle and advance cables i got from kurt were more than long enough for my wla.

i think i cut off a foot and a half. they may work for apes.

call him and see how long they are.

john