linkert M74 leak test

[gena]

Hello, Im riding a 65 pan wich started its career as a police bike in Belgium.My problem is that it is probably leaking air somwhere but when Im put the pressure on, the air is blowing out from tiny little hole under the high speed needle and from a little bigger hole on the carbs body just above the bowl. Is that normal? If it is normal how can I then do the pressure test when the air is blowin out from the holes?
Ps tried to post the messige yesterday but obviously I didnt

Sorry bad English Im from Finland

[58flh]

You have to take the CARB. off!--Then bolt-up a testplate to the Manifold & check for VAC-LEAKS,--Also use soapywater & be sure to hit the cover screw over the port.Use PLENTY of SOAPYWATER!----The carb. sounds like its working GOOD!--If it didnt leak air -(then you would have a problem).---Read COTTONS BUBBLETESTING--(the Virtual Indian)--its all in there! & thoroly explained! --Good-Luck---RICHIE

[gena]

You have to take the CARB. off!--Then bolt-up a testplate to the Manifold & check for VAC-LEAKS,--Also use soapywater & be sure to hit the cover screw over the port.Use PLENTY of SOAPYWATER!----The carb. sounds like its working GOOD!--If it didnt leak air -(then you would have a problem).---Read COTTONS BUBBLETESTING--(the Virtual Indian)--its all in there! & thoroly explained! --Good-Luck---RICHIE

Ok, I had the testplate on the carb. A missunderstanding from my side. I m going straight to the garage and fix it, the riding season is almost here

[58flh]

YES INDEED!--The weather is HERE!----Remember to start from ZERO when tightening the o-rings!---Use PLENTY of soapy water! & do 1-side at a time!---for Ex. --Spray BOTH!--You will see the LEAKS QUICKY as Bubbles will show you where it needs to be done!.---Just snug them enuff ubtill it stops Bubleing!. & waight///////---I forgot to mention ---MAKE-SURE the CARB.--SUPPORT is on & TIGHT!.--Continue with 1/4 to 1/2---turns until no more BUBBLES!--(DONE!).--I just did mine a week ago,Just like I told you to do it!.------RESPECTDULLY----Richie

[gena]

YES INDEED!--The weather is HERE!----Remember to start from ZERO when tightening the o-rings!---Use PLENTY of soapy water! & do 1-side at a time!---for Ex. --Spray BOTH!--You will see the LEAKS QUICKY as Bubbles will show you where it needs to be done!.---Just snug them enuff ubtill it stops Bubleing!. & waight///////---I forgot to mention ---MAKE-SURE the CARB.--SUPPORT is on & TIGHT!.--Continue with 1/4 to 1/2---turns until no more BUBBLES!--(DONE!).--I just did mine a week ago,Just like I told you to do it!.------RESPECTDULLY----Richie

Thank you

[Cotten]

Welcome Gena!

Basic bubbletesting is discussed at http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.

Although the older "plumber's" design is shown, it applies to clamped O-ring assemblies as well.
Testing while you install and tighten the clamps will help you find the "sweet spot" where it seals fully, and indicate if you overtighten the clamps.

No more than 15psi (1 atm) is required, but it must be a constant, regulated supply.
Please wash off any detergent thoroughly, as it can be corrosive.

Panheads should also have the pan cover screws nearest to the top motormount studs tested.

The seam between the carburetor and the manifold cannot be bubble-tested.
Both carb and manifold flanges, and the phenolic spacer, should be ground flat.
The carb support may require shimming or a slight bend to mount the carb to the manifold squarely, without tweak or bind.

We look forward to any questions at all,

....Cotten

[gena]

Welcome Gena!

Basic bubbletesting is discussed at http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.

Although the older "plumber's" design is shown, it applies to clamped O-ring assemblies as well.
Testing while you install and tighten the clamps will help you find the "sweet spot" where it seals fully, and indicate if you overtighten the clamps.

No more than 15psi (1 atm) is required, but it must be a constant, regulated supply.
Please wash off any detergent thoroughly, as it can be corrosive.

Panheads should also have the pan cover screws nearest to the top motormount studs tested.

The seam between the carburetor and the manifold cannot be bubble-tested.
Both carb and manifold flanges, and the phenolic spacer, should be ground flat.
The carb support may require shimming or a slight bend to mount the carb to the manifold squarely, without tweak or bind.

We look forward to any questions at all,

....Cotten

Thank you, I think I have to change the trottle shaft bushing as vell, it feels very loose I ordered from v twin a linkert rebuild kit a few years ago and there where, among other parts, two bushings.Is there anything especially I have to do, think about e.g. how the bushigs comes out are there any special tools needed ? and do I have to change the trottle shaft also?

Ps Thank you for a very nice forum and very nice people and very nice bikes as vell

[Cotten]

Gena!

To remove the bushings, I use a sacrificial 8mm metric tap.
The bushing is partially tapped for threads, and then a rod is inserted through the opposite bushing to the tap, so that it can be lightly hammered out.

The tap is often damaged.

For installation, I use a ground .248" (6.3mm) rod is inserted through both bores in the casting, and the bushings slipped over the rod, lubricated, with the champher faceing the bore.
Two cylindrical pucks with a .248" bore are slipped over the rod ends to meet the bushings.
A screwpress or large vise is then used to press upon the pucks to drive the bushings into their bores in line with each other.

The bushings must then be reamed and honed to fit the fresh shaft.

....Cotten

[gena]

So I cannot use the old shaft?

[cdndewey]

So I cannot use the old shaft?

Not a good idea. If you run a fingernail along it you'll probably find a slight step.

[gena]

yeah, there is signs of wear and I always trying to use new parts but I haven t the shaft at home so I have to order it all the way from America and that will last a week or two. However it is always best to get the job done properly at once or you have to do it twice.

Ps Thank you very much all of

[Cotten]

Gena!

You have a better chance of getting a quality shaft from a European supplier.

....Cotten

[Huck]

Gena!

You have a better chance of getting a quality shaft from a European supplier.

....Cotten

Exactly, all our stuff comes from China, few here refuse to purchase the crap. Our downward spiral continues…

[Cotten]

Huck!

The flood of poor throttleshafts on the market, with slots cut way too wide so they bind when the disc screws are tightened, were supplied by a well known U.S.A. manufacturer.

I don't care if a part is made on the Dark Side of the Moon as long as it is quality.

....Cotten

[Huck]

My point being, if you're buying from Vtwin don't expect much. I'd add a washer.